Question about Whirlpool Water Heaters
The county water supply had a main break this morning. My house sounded like water was running with leaks all over the house. I ran around checking. My in water line from the street into my house was very HOT. My house was sounding like it was going to blow up. I went and turned the gas off the hot water heater. Turned off the main line in my house from outside. Then I went outside and turned off the water at the meter underground. Talked to neighbors, some were having the same thing going on. They all decided to do as I did and cut the water off and the gas to the hot water heater off. My question what happened and how dangeous is this if I was not home and I assume it was sucking the hot water heater empty and it was still heating the tank. Would the tank blow up or damage my pipes. About 15 years ago a water break happened from the county. When they turned the water back on I had to replace all the cartridges in my sinks etc. and dig up my front yard as it blew up the underground (my line) where is was contacted near the house. They blew so much air into my pipes with debris that it was very costly on my part. What would have happened if I had not cut stuff off? How can I fix this so this will not happen again? What if I am not home if it happens?
You did smart thing turning off water and gas.
Play it safe.
Your water heater will NOT explode.
Conduct routine maintenance so water heater lasts longer. If plumber says you need new heater, then post question on fixya and include information showing on tank label on side of tank.
Also include why plumber says to replace.
Get another plumber.
Call city utility company to determine source of noise.
Posted on Dec 03, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: A.O. Smith Water Heater Problems
ok here is how a heater works - there is a high setting cut out and a low settin cut out. The cycle is as follows. The water heater first heats to a preset temperature , say 120 degress. You draw water and the temp in the tank drops to say 90 degrees at which point it fires again- sensing that if it doesn't you will run out of water.I think that this setting has been set too low to say 75 degrees and you get cooler water because the heater cannot catch up. You must find this control in book at set the differential to twenty degress.This will stop you from running out of hot water.Just for the record less reputable companies will do this on purpose over a coulpe visits adn tell you the heater is failing and must be replaced. Get a book. In the mean time I need your model # so I can find this setting for you.Wait to hear from you. Allen
Posted on Oct 31, 2008
Some circulation pumps have a 3 phase mixing valve (cold,warm,hot) to regulate the water pressure in the building; no way to know unless you trace the plumbing. Basically, the hot water temperature could be lost because the circ-pump is cooling it with the cold water supplied to it. This is used to balance the pressure (aka Pressure Balancing Circ-Pump), so heater is really working overtime to heat the water. If the pump has two in and one out that's more than likely your problem; but you should consult a "old-school" plumber in your area.
Posted on Nov 28, 2008
I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.
So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?
Posted on Nov 29, 2008
Are you using a single lever faucet? The install guide does indicate that you may need to reduce the input from the cold water side to ensure that water stays at a consistent temperature (see page 7 of the installation and service manual). Also, remember, this is a SMALL hot water heater. So if you're running for any length of time at full output, it may not keep up with you (see page 8 of the service an installation manual). I found the manual online at http://www.airwater.biz/images_templ/bosch-water-heaters-ae3.4-manual.pdf.
Posted on Feb 01, 2009
It could be back flowing into the hot water heater tank which is not full because of the leak. Even though the valve is closed on the cold water entry side, there is probably no valve on the exit side. That is how it is returning to the tank.
Posted on Sep 19, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you very much, Rick! "
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