Question about Kenmore Dryers

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Why won't are Kenmore series 80 dryer stay hot? And if it is the element how do I replace it? I looked in the peek hole on the front of the dryer. It just turns red in there and goes dim. Sometime

This is a gas dryer and is about 7 years old. The model number is 11072822101 and the serial is MP4761824

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 9,472 Answers

You will need to replace the gas coils. Here is the kit to order.
There is a video on that parts page to show you how to replace the coils.

Posted on Dec 02, 2012

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  • Robert Greimann Dec 04, 2012

    Got the parts this morning installed works great. Thanks

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: cant find heating element for kenmore 80 series dryer

it should be in a housing mounted just inside the back panel. unlatch the housing from its mounts and the element slides out from the bottom

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

pride applia
  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: Push the start button and nothing happens - no noise nothing.

check both thermal fueses, door switch, power relay, timer contacts if good, replace motor, do you have 220 volts at plug

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

ned_san_jose
  • 230 Answers

SOURCE: I have an Kenmore 80 Series Gas Dryer, the heat is

How are ya?

The heating element is supposed to cycle on and off to maintain a set temperature. If it takes too long to come back on again, then the thermistat is malfunctioning.

Take a temperature probe and stick it in the drum and let it run for a few minutes and note the temperature. Should be consistantly near 90 - 130 degrees. Good luck :)

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

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gas--- glo bar that lights the gas is bad or the vent to the outside is clogged electric-----wire may be burnt off the heating element or element has to be replaced

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All of the fuses check out element is good all conections good but no heat


There are 5 switch-like elements in series with the heater element, according to one diagram I found (Google "kenmore 80 dryer wiring diagram"). If any of these is open you won't get heat. If you're handy with a VOM, it's any easy problem to track down. Start at the element -- you should see 240VAC across it. If you do, the element is bad. If you don't, check across all the other switch-like things. You should read 0VAC across each of them if they're closed (good) or open (bad). It's a relatively easy matter to find a single open element, slightly more complicated if there are several.

Or, start across the 2 240VAC line legs. You should read 240VAC; if not, your problem is outside the dryer (circuit breakers DO fail). If so, there is an open somewhere in the circuit preventing current flow. Move one of your VOM test leads through the circuit from that 240VAC leg all the way around to the other leg. It will continue to show 240VAC until you pass over the open element (a switch-thing, a bad piece of wire (unlikely), or the heater element), at which time it will show 0VAC. When that happens, the problem is in the element you just passed over. If you're lucky, it will be an easily-replaced part.

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First you have to determine whether you element is in the front or the back of the machine this is done easiest by looking at the front of the machine and seeingif its one complete piece or two. If its one, the element is in the back, if two its in the front. We'll start if its in the back first. Tools you'll need is: 1/4 nut driver or drill with 1/4 adapter and a multimeter with ability to check continuity. With the machine unplugged, remove the back cover of the dryer. Once done, the heating element will be located on the right hand side with two fuses on the housing of the element. Test the element and each fuse seperatly by removing the wires and checking for continuity on each component. All parts should show continuity, so if one doesn't its bad and needs to be replaced. Now if the element is the front everything is the same with the exception of you have to remove the lower portion, usually held on by 3-4 screws located underneath.

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if it is electric you need a new heating element they can cost around 80 dollars for the string it yourself kind and the pre strung kit cost double that price mabye more . if you are handy i can tel you how to replace the part in detail. I have also written a few time how to replace this part if you look through my solutionshope this helps feel free to write back for more help i would love to assist you

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This is probably the gas valve not working right. I would replace it. The ignitor is working and turning on the valve but it doesn't stay on.

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Check your heating element. #1 cause for no heat. Easy to replace and ea VERY easy to break. Just for your own well being also make sure that gas pressure us correct

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