FRIDGE LIKES TO RELIEVE ITSELF ON THE KITCHEN FLOOR
Just put in a new dual water valve and copper tubing for waterline the valve had cracked do probably to being out in the cold during a move. I had turned the ice maker of for a day and i turned it back on it seems to be making ice faster then it is suppose and some of it is hollow to. Well anyways I here the water going into freezer too the ice tray and then some mechnical sound (funny sound)and then a puddle appears underneath the fridge. I took of the vent cover on the bottom of the fridge and wiped the water away it stayed dry for about 3 hours and then did the same thing, I noticed the water tube under the vent,could this be the problem im baffled!
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Re: FRIDGE LIKES TO RELIEVE ITSELF ON THE KITCHEN FLOOR
Sounds like the ice maker is overfilling.
You can adjust this by pulling the square front cover off and you will see a screw that shows ice size above it,just turn that screw towards the minus symbol.If not, post back and we'll go from there.
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Screw a packing nut into the cold water pipe. Turn the packing nut until it punctures and taps into the pipe. Attach ¼-inch copper tubing to the outlet valve on the packing nut using a compression nut. Make certain the valve is closed before you secure the packing nut.
Attach the copper tubing to the intake connection using a compression nut. to back of fridge,
Turn on the cold water supply.
Turn on the outlet valve on the packing nut.
the kit should have directions with it. good-day !
Mine leaked because the plastic tubing which leads onto your cold water pipes was old and cracked.
There is a shut off for the water mine is in the basement off the cold water line if you shut that off till you can go buy a new line at home depot or wherever it will stop leaking. DO NOT shut off your water supply just look for where they tapped into the cold waterline for your fridge. Look at the back of your fridge and you will see a clear tubing from your fridge probably leading to your basement you will see
the same tubing coming probably thru the ceramic floor thru to the basement leading to a valve if you shut that off till you can replace the tube it will stop just don't take the copper tap off because it has been screwed in there and made a hole in the piping to feed into your fridge. The piece is about $10.00 at home depot or lowes, a plumber is about $150.00 It is easy to do. Tell them you need a new assembly for your fridge, If this is an ice maker fridge as I suppose it is. If not pull out the fridge and see if you see a clear tubing
Sounds to me like you have a leak, probably from an ice maker tubing connection or vinyl water supply tube itself. Have someone get a good flashlight and get a good closeup look at where the water is coming from. The water supply to the fridge's icemaker comes from the house wall, floor, or cabinet area of sink. Often they are connected to fridge, then someone moves the fridge to clean and the line gets run-over or tugged on too hard causing a leak. If that is cause, install a new line (hardware stores have these specific to ice makers, 1/4" vinyl or copper tubing) and it should be coiled several times in mid air near the wall, so if fridge is moved out it just uncoils not incurrs damage from un-noticed tension (full amount of water pressure in that little line).
2nd possibility for newer type fridge. All frost free fridges have a pan underneath that catches condensation from coils, from the pan the water evaporates into the air where balance is achieved and pan is never full. On rare occasions, like during moving, on some the pan isn't fastened down and can fall out of place, then condensation water from the coils falls to floor (not any great amount but some).
There should be a small valve behind the fridge. Pull it out from the wall, and look behind it with a flashlight. They are usually near the floor at the wall. Turn clockwise to close it. In older homes, the water line can be run under cabinets to under the kitchen sink where water pipes are..
Old installations use 1/4 inch copper tubing. Newer ones use 1/4 inch nylon. Some use flexible white hoses.
If you close the valve and it still drips, then the entire water system will have to be closed off to replace the valve. These valves and new connection kits are available at sears, home depot and lowes.
Find your route to the water line. Drill a hole in the floor behind the refrigerator and thread the copper tubing into the basement. Go to the basement and find the main water line and pull the copper tubing to it.
Step 2 Attach pipe to refrigerator. Go back up to the kitchen and attach the end of the copper tubing to the water pipe of the refrigerator. You can use a nut and ferrule to connect the tube to the fridge. Make sure to leave a little bit of copper tubing coiled behind the fridge so as to not disconnect the tubing when moving the fridge.
Step 3 Turn off the water. With the fridge all hooked up, go back to the basement and turn off the water. Find the cold water pipe and drill a 1/4-inch hole to accommodate the copper tubing.
Step 4 Attach valve to pipe. You need to attach the water valve to the main pipe. This allows you to control the flow of water to the refrigerator. Make sure you have a gasket to seal between the valve and main water pipe.
Step 5 Connect the copper tubing. With the valve connected to the main water pipe, connect the copper tubing using a clamp. This should be everything you need. Turn on the main water and you should be able to get a glass of water, but it will take an hour or two for the ice cubes to freeze.
Hi .. there should be piping connectors at each end of the tubing. I would disconnect those connectors andtake them to the building supply store and get new fittings and a new supply hose. The new hose does not need to be copper,. you do not need to cut the existing fittings off the wall or the fridge, the new fittings, or new hose can connect directly to the old fittings. my tool of choice is a pair of crescent wrenches
Check out the water dispenser is working good condition or not. also check the value. Also the dual water valve did indeed fix the problem of no water in the icemaker. It was very easy to change out. First unplug the refrigerator, turn off the water to the icemaker and then pull out the refrigerator for easy access. Have a small pan ready to catch the water in the tubes. The water valve on my refrigerator was located at the right rear and was screwed via a bracket to a frame member. Remove the fiber or cardboard cover which is about 4'x1' to get to the valve. It might be a good idea to take a digital picture now of the old water valve showing the orientation of the plastic tubes; when you replace it the tubes should have the same orientation so you have no worry about a kink. Remove the copper tubing from the valve with a half inch wrench, then unscrew and remove the two plastic tubes. Drain the tubes in the small pan. Mark the tubes (right and left) so you know where they go on the new valve. Unscrew the entire valve from the frame (two screws) and pull the valve out carefully. Remove the two electric plugs from the old water valve and mark them left and right.
The copper tubing goes back in the new valve but do not use the old compression washer. I cut the tubing off about one inch because the old compression washer would not come off. I also used the new half inch copper nut which came in the kit instead of using the original. Slide the copper nut up the copper tube, slide on the compression washer, then slide the copper tubing down inside the fitting on the new water valve. Screw the copper nut securely with a half inch open end wrench. The copper tube probably was secured to the back of the refrigerator with a bracket so remember to put it back into the bracket; this prevents the tube from getting bent when you are moving the refrigerator back and forth.
Next screw the original plastic tubes (left and right) onto the proper fitting of the new water valve. Be careful not to screw them too tightly; do not use a wrench.
Then plug the electrical connections back into the new water valve, left and right. Carefully push everything back inside the bottom of the refrigerator and screw it back to the frame. Take a look at your picture and make sure the tubes are oriented properly. That's it. Turn the water back on the copper feed tube, plug it in, and make sure nothing leaks.
Replace the fiberboard and push the refrigerator back to the wall. If the icemaker does not start immediately, put about 1/2 cup of water in the tray and let it restart the cycle. It will freeze the water, eject the cubes, and then magically water will flow back into the itray. ThanksGood Luck
For starters turn off the water at the faucet that controls that line. It is most likely behind the fridge, or in the basement where that 1/4 inch line comes up to feed the fridge. The waterline is 1/4" and is available at any hardware store, home depot, lowes.
I had a similar issue that started about a year ago with my Sub-Zero 550. My freezer gasket actually tore after several times of freezing closed. I thought that a new gasket would solve it, but a second but related problem developed where I was getting alot of condensation under the left side of the unit, with the water dripping onto the floor...eventually staining the hardwood floor in front of the unit.
I traced the problem to a clogged condensation drain pipe in the refrigerator. It is a corrugated pipe that drains a trough behind the crisper drawers. My pipe was clogged with black sludge and frozen down below. The condensation in the fridge would overflow out of the trough and leak below the crisper drawers, down out through the gasket.
To resolve, I used a piece of solid thin wire folded in half and twisted with a small loop at the end to fish out as much sludge as I could. Then squirted hot water into the pipe until it totally unclogged. I believe this will solve the problem without any need for a heater underneath the unit. The 550 worked fine for 4-5 years before this happened.