Question about Thermador Ovens
Both ovens went out the same time
Posted by Anonymous on
THINGS TO CHECK:
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
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Posted on Jan 11, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Thermador Convection Oven
well im not terribly familer with thermadors wiring but pull the top off and find the tech sheet then look for a device call a thermal fuse or tco thermal cut off most times they are on top or on the back of the oven yours should have one for each oven bet the one for the top is open can happen if there installed in to close a space
Posted on Jan 30, 2008
SOURCE: oven not heating
You need to replace the fan oven element.
access to it is by removing the rear panel in the oven, there you will see the element.
Plz rate my solution.
Posted on Dec 18, 2008
The cap replacement worked....saving $250 (every 2 years !!!) I posted it on another site...now its making its way around the web....its the only value added thing I've done on the web (sadly!).
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
If your electric oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself...
Check out this tip that I wrote about the Oven not heating problem..
Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly
Posted on May 18, 2010
Hello George, welcome to fixya.
The symptoms you describe are a common occurrence when the hi-limit has tripped. This typically occur's following a self clean cycle. The display will indicate the oven is indeed "on" but it will not heat do to the circuit being interrupted by the hi-limit ( which is what it was designed to do ).
Fortunately if it is tripped, they are the manual reset type and are accessible behind the black grill/vent just above the door and just below the control panel next to the lock latch assembly. **Turn off the 40amp breaker at your service panel or sub-panel in the home before attempting any service...safety first**
With the power off, you should be able to remove the grill and push the red button in the center of the thermostat and that should fix your problem...if indeed the hi-limit is tripped you`ll know immediately because you`ll feel it click as you push it down. It will look like the image below...
Let me know if I can assist you further. If this solves your problem please rate the solution accordingly, if not let me know and I`ll try to guide you through other possible scenario`s.
Thanks for visiting "fixya" and good luck.
Posted on Jun 15, 2010
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