Check the limit switch.most look like box with a switch or button.Next to the switch or button it will say auto - on .The button style will run the fan if the button is pulled out.Common problem is the button breaks fans stays on all the time. Unplug the unit before replacement, fairly straightforward repair, if you question your ability call a professional, as this is a safety device.
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It would be very helpful if you could provide the type of heating system (natural gas, propane, fuel oil, or electric) and the make and model number.
I recently repaired a natural gas system with a similar problem. The control circuit board had diagnostic lights flashing a code for five flame sensor failures in a cycle. The furnace would ignite a flame, then shut it off after a couple of seconds, then repeat until the fifth try. The flame sensor electrode was coated with solid material from contaminants in the gas. I polished it with Scotch-Brite (TM) and got it to work properly. What is different in this case is that the blower would also not run unless it was set to blow continuously.
first check your high limit switch find the white wire coming from your blower moter and unplug it hold down your door switch to see if your furnace will shut off if not replace it and your blower will run for ten to 20 min or until your heater has cooled down.
you should not use the unit if it smell like a electrical problems. it could be your indoor circuit board you could take it out if you realy wanted to make sure its unpluged and see if there is any loose cables check if the fan free spins and does not feel stiff
when the room thermostat is satisfied it stops the heat by stopping power to the sequencer or contactor which is in series with the heating element/s...the TEMPERATURE OPERATED FAN SWITCH then takes over the blower until the heaters cool
Cleaning the flame sensor has nothing to do with blower motor not turning on. You either one of the following problems 1 bad cap for motor. 2 bad motor. 3 bad limit on blower housing or 4 a bad board. You will need a volt meter to check for these problems. Try seeing if the fans runs with unit of and fan switch turned to on. Also does motor hummmm. Is motor cage free ( can check by manually turning) If motor doesnt humm and the cage is free wheeling then you will need to find out if you have power going to the motor. If you find out that you do then you will need to change blower motor. If you do not have power then you will need to check limit with continuity tester on volt meter. If that checks fine only 1 thing can be wrong and that is the board.
It is a fairly simple operation. The hardest part may be seperating the blower wheel from the motor shaft. I recommend first sanding then applying a little oil to the old shaft. Prop the blower housing aprox. a foot off the floor with the motor facing down then using a wrench (NOT pliers as you may scar the shaft) hold the wheel with one hand and work the wrench on the shaft work it back and forth to loosen. DO NOT hammer on the end of the shaft as you will mushroom it ever so slightly. The weight of the motor should cause the shaft to slide down. Good luck and don't forget to answer back if this works or not.
most likely the heating speed relay on your furnaces IFC board has failed.Unfortunately the entire IFC must be replaced to repair this. you are in need of a professional service tech. The same control handles the blower fan, ignition system and safeties. Not a do-it-yourself repair as wires in the wrong place could cost you a house.