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Hi I have a GE model# DSS25KGRE BB fridge. The fridge runs constantly, meaning it cools until the coils get all frosted up. then the defrost heater kicks on and 'thaws' the coils. I have tried

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  • Refrigerators Master
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OK, first check the condenser coils and fan to be sure they are free of lint and dirt buildup. Dirty coils will keep the unit from cooling correctly and the unit will run endlessly. Post back the results to me and we will take it from there.





Regards,
Richard Roth
http://appliancecafe.com

Posted on Dec 01, 2012

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The fan which cools the compressor is bad (condensor motor ) .

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

woodchuck789
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SOURCE: GE Fridge not cooling well, frost in freezer,back wall and coils

How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

Posted on Aug 17, 2009

  • 29 Answers

SOURCE: Stop cooling every 5 days I defrost manual GSS201ETCBB

Does the freezer / fridge door close good? Check the hinges. Also check the seal and the amount of food stuff you may have close to the door. If you have an ice maker make sure you have it secured inside the freezer section.

It sounds like something is keeping the freezer door open or from closing good.

Posted on Mar 20, 2010

  • 2468 Answers

SOURCE: refridgerator side not getting cold model gss201epaww

make sure the damper vent door located between the freezer and refrige compartments is opening and letting in cold air from the freezer,if they ice up they can stick shut and not allow air flow,this door is behind a plastic grille an a hair dryer works great to defrost them

Posted on Apr 30, 2010

  • 1218 Answers

SOURCE: GE GSH25JFTA BB getting VERY warm on defrost

Good day,
Your machine should have a limit thermostat as well as the thermister. It may payto change it first before the motherboard.
It looks like this, mounted on the top of the coil.

c4a2b47.jpg
If that fails, and the machine goes back to normal cooling until the next defrost cycle, I can think of nothing but the motherboard as the culprit.

Posted on May 29, 2010

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Refrigerator stopped cooling. As close as I can tell the fan in the freezer part was frosted up for a length of time and has possibly ruined the fridges cooling fan? Kenmore model 106 freezer on top.


If the fan in the freezer stops, then coll air from freezer will not pass from freezer section to fridge section.In that case, the freezer section will get over frosted but fridge section will not get cold, because cool air will not pass from freezer to fridge.The fan is there for two things, 1) for cooling the heating evaporator coil and 2) For flowing the cool air from freezer to fridge.---------- If the frost is getting collected and fan is getting stuck up in frost, then this is the problem.The defrost cycle is not running, the cooling cycle is running.---------------
This problem is called defrost problem.-------------

So first thing you try is , perform, manual defrost reset procedure.---------

The manual defrost reset procedure is as follows : ----
First unplug the unit from main power outlet. Then empty whole unit completely. Then keep both the doors open. Wait for 24 hours. All the ice collected on the coils and in the freezer section will get melted. Clean the water from the sections. Then Connect the power cord of the unit to main power outlet after 24 hours/.Then set the temperature to normal in both fridge and freezer section. Then check,if same frost is getting collected, then its defrost problem,. If it's again building up ice that means the unit is not defrosting. It's starting the cooling procedure, and then while defrosting, it's not working. The defrost assembly consists of three main parts. The defrost thermostat, the defrost heater and defrost board. Any of the one is not functioning. When thermostat sense the maximum cooling, it triggers the defrost heater to start heating and this defrosts the ice collected on the coils and the system works. Both thermostat and heater are controlled by defrost board. First the thermostat and defrost heater to be checked, if both check ok by meter and visually, then its defrost board causing the problem. You can get required parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Sep 18, 2011 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Mtb1953he fridge not cooling before it stopped fridge was making loud popping noise, i unplugged it then plugged it back in a day later to unthaw and fridge worked for 2 weeks now not working again. there...


It sounds like your defrost circuit is having a problem. Once frost builds up on the coil in the freezer compartment, air can no longer be pulled though the fins and circulated into the fresh food compartment. You notice things start to warm up. Eventually, the freezer suffers from the same lack of circulation and contents begin to soften and melt.

The defrost circuit consists of 4 main parts. They are: 1) defrost heater, 2) defrost terminator or sensor in series with the heater, 3) defrost timer and 4) wiring between the previous 3 parts.

The defrost heater is found in the compartment that houses the coiling coil. The defrost terminator or sensor is clipped or otherwise secured to be kept in physical contact with the cooling coil itself. The defrost timer may be located anywhere the manufacturer decides - a popular spot is in the toe space on the bottom of the fridge. The wiring, well, that is between all the parts. Chances are the wiring is fine - as would be the connectors to the individual components.

The defrost timer runs about 8 hours. About 20 - 30 minutes in that 8 hour period the defrost switch operates. This consists of switching power away from the compressor (so it shuts off) and to the defrost heater and defrost terminator. The heater is just a relatively small value heater that warms the compartment to melt any frost or ice from the cooling coil fins. It will be powered for up to 20 - 30 minutes by the timer or less - if the defrost terminator senses a rising temperature on the coil. This means that the heater will be on for either 20 - 30 minute OR until the defrost terminator gets warm enough.

If the timer is stuck - and never moves to the 20 - 30 defrost cycle, the frost on the coil will never melt away. If the timer does work, but the heating element has failed, the frost will never melt away. If the defrost terminator has failed open (preventing the power from getting to the heater), the will not work to melt the frost off the coil. If there is a loose, missing or damaged connection between the wiring harness and these components, it won't run as expected either.

Make sure there is continuity through the heater. When cold (below freezing) the terminator should also have continuity. Many are designed to open around 50 degrees F - so if you warm it up, you should see the continuity go away. The timer needs power to run, and will send power to either the compressor or defrost heater - never both at the same time. Check with power disconnected. Use care checking live circuits - and only work live circuits when you need to check for presence of power - otherwise, unplug!

I hope this helps. Please rate this reply - thanks!

Jan 05, 2011 | Maytag MTB1953HE Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Defrost does not work. too much frost on coils. have changed the heater, but did not help.


Hi,
Sounds like a defrost timer/control board issue...


Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

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heatman101

Dec 27, 2010 | GE GSS25TGPWW / GSS25TGPCC Side by Side...

1 Answer

My fridge is not cooling, its running but not cooling, could you please help. Thanks Reema


Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.


Hope this helpout in solving the problem.....

Aug 15, 2010 | GE GSS25SGMBS Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Ge tfx 22krdavw refrigerator not cooling


Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this helpout.....

Aug 08, 2010 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

GE side by side unit. Freezer OK, fridge


Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this work.....


Jul 28, 2010 | GE Profile 26.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Coils freeze up, replaced thermostat, defrost unit, mother board, only marginally works when set on 2-3


It is normal for the coils to frost evenly all over but if it's not defrosted it will build up preventing proper cooling. After replacing your defrost components make sure the frost is being melted. The motherboard determines when to defrost based you your use of the freezer/fridge. It should defrost from once a day to once every two or three days.
Is the fan in the freezer running? It won't cool right without it. It should run when the compressor runs.
Are the coils frosting evenly? Uneven frost means it is low on freon and requires a tech to repair.
Is the fan underneath the fridge near the compressor running when the compressor runs. If not It won't cool properly.
Does the compressor ever cut off as it should when it reaches the selected temp.

Jan 20, 2010 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Freezer working fridge not working


Hi: When this happens it means that there is frost built up in the back of the refrigerator. You are having an issue with the defrost heater or the defrost timer. There is an off chance the refrigerator's freezer is over packed with food and there is no circulation. If you're handy empty the fridge and take a hair dryer to the back wall to melt away the frost from behind. You will have to remove the back metal wall. Look at the heater. It will be at the bottom of the freezer behind the back wall. A glass tube with a wire coil running through it. If the coil is broken, replace it. If not you will be looking at a defrost timer. Usually on a circuit board and expensive. Good Luck, Jeff

Jun 01, 2009 | Whirlpool ED2FHGX Side by Side...

1 Answer

Freezer works fine but frig does not get cold at all


My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermister and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
 
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.
*One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
New link from Appliance Repair Aid on how the wiring circuit works for a frost free fridge, the link is here.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall.  On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. A ball of ice on the coils and the rest of the cooling coils are bare or only a few coils frosted a little and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem. Example picture oneexample picture twoexample picture three. System problems may be a leak in the refrigeration tubing, an inefficient not 100% pumping compressor. 

Apr 03, 2009 | GE Profile 21.7 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...

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