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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore wont agitate or spin
Mindurrs, your motor coupling has gone to the great beyond. Time for mourning has passed and now it must be replaced. The job takes about an hour and parts run about $10.00, ready? First, go to your local appliance parts retailer and purchase a coupling, part #285753. You'll need this for repairs. UNPLUG THE WASHER!!! Standing in front of the washer, you'll see two screws on either side of the control panel... remove these then flip the control panel over. Now, toward the right side, you'll see a wire harness that plugs into the top of the top panel, disconnect this. Now, on either side of the top panel, you'll see two brass colored clips. Take a screwdriver and poke it into the hole, use it as a pry bar. Pry the handle of the screwdriver toward the wall behind the washer, the clip will pop out. Now tilt the entire cabinet of the washer toward you to about a 45 degree angle then lift it out of there and set it aside out of the way for now. OK, now we're into the guts of the washer... Look below and in the center, you'll see the drain pump (it has 2 big hoses attached). Behind that, you'll see the motor... that's what you'll be taking off. On the right side of the motor, you'll see the electrical connections. Remove the long white one from the motor. (CAUTION!!! THIS NEXT STEP MUST BE DONE, OTHERWISE PERSONAL INJURY MAY RESULT!!!) You'll see a black round thing mounted to the motor on the right hand side, this is the capacitor. It has 2 red wires on it. (It's basically a 120 volt battery that is just waiting for you to touch it so it can shock you, badly) THIS MUST BE DISCHARGED (voltage drained off) BEFORE CONTINUING. Remove the 2 wires using insulated needle nose pliers. Now, discharge the cap by touching both terminals of the cap at the same time with your needle nose pliers. This will discharge the capacitor so it's safe to handle. Now, above and below the motor, you'll see 2 clips mounted on it, remove the screws that keep these clips in place then (with a flat head screwdriver) pry the clips off the motor. The motor and pump will drop out of there. Rotate the whole thing off to the left (with the hoses still attached to the pump). Now you can see the broken coupling (compare the old one and the new one). Pry the old pieces off the motor shaft and the transmission shaft and throw 'em away. Install the new coupling (notice the semi-triangular shape of the inside of the plastic coupling? I use my screwdriver handle... poke the handle into the coupling, place the coupling squarely on the shaft, then tap [don't BANG] it home with a hammer) and rebuild in the reverse order of dis-assembly! Sounds complicated, but it's not. I've done a thousand of these and it took me longer to type this than it would have for me to do it for you! And, for what it's worth, you have a good washer there. It's actually made by Whirlpool, and well worth the repair.
Posted on Sep 16, 2007
Yes the brakes are grabbing too hard....I will sometimes lubricate them....Or replace the basket drive assy. You do know how to take the cabinet off i take it??
Posted on Oct 03, 2007
SOURCE: Kenmore 90 Series Washer
looks like you have a defective motor or a leaked load capacitor .....you need to get the motor rewired....or get a new motor for your washer..... have the capacitor checked....
but ya the issue is 1 of the 2....faulty cap/motor
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
The symptoms you describe are typical of a broken motor coupling. The following link explains how to replace one:
The motor coupling resides in between the drive motor and gearcase (transmission). They often can wear out over time and break. Some of the original couplers were made totally of plastic and the center hole would either round out and free spin on the motor shaft, or crack and shear apart. Manufacturers have since come out with a new improved coupler with a steel grommet in the center that resists breaking. The part number is included in the link I provided.
If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know before rating the solution. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
washer is 2 years old and this is 1/2 the cost I paid for it new. My
review of this product after 35 years of technical experience; GE
products (Hotpoint)aren't worth buying any longer.
The problem is the Motor. There is an electronic PC Board attached to the top of the motor and under the drip protector, which protects the PC Board. On this board, there is a green flashing light which displays trouble codes by flashing. Unplug the washer, remove the 3 screws from behind the control panel. Slowly pull the control panel toward you and slide it to the right to release. Inside the washer, there is a diagram with the trouble codes printed in the lower right hand corner. Everything else is self explained. Flashes indicate the problem and the solution is all written. Since I have the same problem and a technician, this is a defective product GE has discontinued and re-manufactured. After phoning GE the motor # Normal 0 WH20X10051 cost $252.25 to ship to my location.
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
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