Question about Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

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Neptune tl washing machine spin cycle

I have a neptune TL washing machine that is 4 years old and is not completing the spinning cycle. I have contacted a local repair shop approved for Maytag and was told no parts are being made to fix this issue. I am at a loss since this is an expensive machine and supposed to be reputable. What can be done to fix this machine?

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  • Anonymous Jan 15, 2009

    I have a Maytag Neptune TL washer that does not complete the spin cycle. It makes clicking sounds while spinning and displays error code dc when there are 10 minutes left in the cycle. The repair person said it needed a new clutch, app. $300 for the clutch and repair. Have to wait a week for the part because they do not carry many parts for this washer even though they are a Maytag service dealer. Repair guy said they dis- continued making the Neptune series because of too many problems. Also have the matching dryer with drying center on top. It broke 4 months ago. Took about 10 visits to fix that problem.

  • gdave44 Jan 23, 2009

    I was optimistic with this one, but there appears to be too much damage to salvage.

    I bought a used neptune TL set for a hundred bucks figuring even if the washer doesn't work out, the dryer's at least worth it.

    I pulled the clutch per dh1200s' instruction and lubed up the whole thing with WD-40. If it worked, I'd take it out again and use a lithium grease. Alas, it didn't work. No change, speed would get up to 48 RPM on all three spin tests and end with a uC code.

    I figured I'd delve a little deeper. I pulled the tub apart and recovered an old drivers license, several paper clips, and a bowl full of change (some of it destroyed physically by the washer). So at this point, I'm figuring the bearings are shot in the base of the tub.

    With the clutch attached to that center shaft and nothing else in the tub, the spin test shows it now gets up to 60ish RPM but still fails with a uC code. The spring inside the clutch seems to be in good shape (corrosion free) and tucks up neatly against the outside wall.

    Any ideas of what else I can look for before I haul it off to the dump Saturday? I don't mind spending quality time tinkering, but I'm not about to throw money at it until I'm absolutely certain. And then it doesn't take much to exceed the value of the unit.

  • mother26 Jan 24, 2009

    I just had a repair technician come who told me it was not worth fixing my washer which has the same problem. With a clicking and grinding noise during the spin cycle and the dc light appearing during the spin cycle. After contacting another technician I was told that it was the clutch that needed to be replaced for the noise and for the dc code it is the tub sensor that needs to be replaced. The sensor is apparently easy to fix but not the clutch. Have any of you replaced either of these parts? And if so was it difficult? After fixing the problem has your machine worked and if so for how long?

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s May 11, 2010

    What error codes do you take when the machine stops in spin cycle? Can you verify that your machine is a FAV6800A model? My brief experience is on this model.

    Do you want to try to troubleshoot and attempt the repair? The FAV6800A from my view is very repairable if you or a friend has basic mechanical/electrical skill sets. The bulk of cost are labor if you can DIY the repair I feel it's worth a try before you junk a $1K machine. Mine was purchased in 7/05.

    If you are taking dc/UC codes in the display when the machine stops in spin cycle it may be similar to my issue. I had a clutch that needed to be re-lubed to stop dc/UC fail codes in spin cycle. Cost of repair for was around $5 for a can of WD-40. I estimate I’m around 25th load of different amounts of clothes with no fail codes in spin cycle.

    Parts supplier just a few.



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Mother26, I have a fair amount of experience with mechanics and have repaired a few washing machines and dryers in my past. For me, both components are easy to replace. Your repairman would have an equally easy time. I'd estimate an hour to repair and verify. Your trouble comes in is the $122 for the replacement clutch and the $82 for the tub displacement sensor. And that's assuming there's no damage to anything else so far.

In my case, change the previous owner didn't remove from pockets destroyed the clutch, transmission, and pump. and somehow spillage caused the tub displacement sensor to short. Overall, far too many parts to make repair equitable.

Keep in mind, this is, in the opinion of many, a failed design on the part of Maytag. Ultimately, it's a toss up on how confident you are that your current condition is the limit of your problems.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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Here is my solution, if you feel you don’t have basic mechanical skill sets to take this on try a family member or friend. What I describe below is a chronic problem with this model and it is repairable with little cost if the issue is similar as mine. Cost of my repair was $5 for a can of WD-40 and a couple of hours of work. I’m at the 30 load mark with no dc/UC error codes in spin cycle not sure what codes you have but I'll bet dc, UC or both.

“”I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/UC errors in the spin cycle, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove the clutch pulley. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley to stay on after re-install and power up; getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix; I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle; it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 4 yr old $1k machine without trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found a link on this site, good luck!””
Here is the SM for the FAV6800A/FAV9800A

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Jan 23, 2009

    Have you checked to see if the tumblers are turning when the washer is in spin cycle. In spin cycle the wash basket rotates CCW and the tumblers must not rotate, If they do you will throw the DC/UC unbalance error unless the wash basket is empty. See this post; Thur Jun 21st, 2007 03:59 pm. This is what clued me in to the clutch not operating properly. From your post it sounds like your testing with a empty wash basket and throwing unbalance errors. Did you test the Tub Displacement Sensor per the troubleshooting guide/SM?

    I agree with you about soaking money into the machine. I and a few other folks got away with the WD-40 clean/lube job. I would love to pick up a machine for $100 for parts. Good luck.

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Jan 24, 2009

    Hello mother26

    There is a Tub Displacement Sensor check in the troubleshooting guide which should be in the console of your machine this will help you diagnose if that is the issue. You can release the top of the washer (not the washer lid) and start a spin only cycle (no clothes in the wash basket) and observe the basket. The basket should begin to rotate CCW and the tumblers in the basket must not rotate, at most they will rotate half a turn. If they rotate as the wash basket rotates CCW in spin cycle then you have a clutch issue. The fix may be as simple as mine which was removing the clutch clean/re-lubing with WD-40. I have read other post where one person had a broken clutch spring that he repaired. If you have basic mechanical skill sets you can try a fix, I felt it was worth a try for me. I did this back in mid Dec, and have gone thru 30+ loads. Loads were single dish towel to heavy bath towel loads. The grinding noise might be coins under the tumblers, I hope it’s not the transmission. Maybe other forum members chime in.

    The site has a Tech Bulletin TDL-0062-B about clutch issues with this machine along with other info on your machine.

    From the trouble shooting guide; The Trouble shooting guide speaks of limit marks on the sensor. I would just try to pull the tub as described below and see what your results are, I’m betting on a clutch issue, Good luck.

    1. Enter the Service Mode by pressing and holding

    the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for three


    2. Press the Super Wash key.

    3. Press Delicates.

    4. Push tub to back right corner. Display will

    show “UO” (Unbalance open).

    5. Press Hand Wash.

    6. Pull tub to front left corner and push down so

    sensor collapses . Display will show “UO” (Unbalance open).



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1st No direct links Google this Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW

In the Sticky: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW 5 post down you will find a link to the Service Manual. You absolutely need the Service Manual to DIY issues with the machine. It's not the best SM but will get you started. I also have repair post in that sticky to help with the most common issues that I have helped owners with.

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