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The model might be nice to know. The fuse blows because you have a shorted component in the deck that is drawing too much current. If you can not figure out what it is- this usually can be found with a DVM, then you need to search out a Technician who works on decks like that. I am in the Chicago area- Skywave Tape Deck Repair.
It is a real old unit. If it has a owner accessible fuse it should be visible otherwise leave it to a Technician- Fuses blow for a reason and a new one will blow out as well. Usually it is shorted caps but can be defective diodes too.
Just connect the deck via tape 1 the out of the deck going to the in of the amp. While the out of the amp goes to the in of the deck.
The tape deck itself will automatically choose the player that plays the cassette. One will play the other will be on pause (if you press both play buttons) till the tape stops then the other will play. For recording from tape to tape one deck will be the copy and the other the copier. There should be a dubbing button which you press to record tape to tape. Some models have a high speed dub also. For recording from the amp unless both decks have record buttons you will only be able to record with one deck. Make certain the dub button is not set.
You can use any amplifier as long as you do not turn it up too high.
Speakers get awful loud with just 10 watts of power going into them.
Unless you are doing PA for a auditorium you do not need this much power. If you are then you should know this answer already.
Lower powered amps that clip are no better for a speaker than higher power amps that do not. Some people put fuses in line with the speakers if hey are concerned with too much power.
P=I^2 * R, therefore 250/8 ohms, squart root and it comes to I is
5.6A This is to the first approximation as sine wave caluculations were not used.
I have no idea what a model 339 is without a manufacturer named. It's not unique.
Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.
Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.
You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.
If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.
If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.
You may have a bad impedance matching situation. Check the level at the headphone jack for starters. If that seems low, there is a problem with the playback amp, which may be the same as the record amp in that model, I'm not sure. The switching mechanism that flips the amp from record to play may be hanging up. Start with the headphones. If that's good, your impedance match is way off, or you simply are using a bad cable, as it feeds from the same amp as the outputs in most cases.