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Ware each wire goes on motherboard

Wires ave come out dont now how they go back

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Need a picture of the wires and connectors

Posted on Nov 30, 2012

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I have an 945gzt-m v 1.0 and dont know were the pwr sw wire goes


Yes.
First, let's orient the view of the motherboard, so we are both looking at it the same way.
The processor is at the top middle, and the Front panel header, is to the very bottom right hand corner.
Right next to the motherboard mounting hole.
The Front Panel header goes across the bottom edge of the motherboard, lengthwise.

Looking at the top row of pins on the Front Panel header, No.2 Pin is at the far left. Pins 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10, go across the top.

Looking at the bottom row, No. 1 Pin is at the far left. Pins 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9, go across the bottom.

The power switch wires go to Pins 6 and 8.
The HDD LED wires go to Pins 1 and 3.
The power LED wires go to Pins 2 and 4.

On the power switch wires, the Positive (+) wire goes to Pin 6. Just in case this wire is marked.
(Doesn't really matter which way it goes, because it's a switch!)

On the HDD LED wires, the Positive (+) wires goes to Pin 1.

On the power LED wires, the Positive (+) wire goes to Pin 6.

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Dont know where an item should go


This is an internal speaker. Find the speaker pins on the mother board. Should be somewhat close to the front panel connections.

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Wiring


Here you can find the user guide 
http://www.epox.com/usa/download.asp?link=2Rq22Q2N3o2ta30Ab00C0z0bv0V22sq21j0wB10ca33o3m0W0EF1O3r00d1A0Iq30m1dZ03O0r1fH0B0E1B1s00Rd03r0Ct01aG00U1CR3c00H3LD02n1D1b2v2h2R2pN3a00u0J&function=download&id=1368

these must be a picture of the motherboard with the connectors tagged into it.
I think the audio one is in the bottom right corner of the motherboard.
The audio connector of the chassis probably has a false pin so that you can't plug it wrong(but if the chassis has a connector that looks like a bunch of loose cables, you need to carefully read where each one goes, I'm sure the manual says it clearly)

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Belgian Waffle Maker Problem


Here is what is happening, and if you're out of warranty and so inclined how to easily fix it yourself.

Make sure you are unplugged from the wall before doing anything or you will get shocked. You do not need to take the bottom cover off the base. You do not need to take the top plate apart (they super glued one screw in the top plate (lid), you'll strip out the screw head trying to remove it anyhow). All you need to open is the bottom plate, it has 4 screws in it you will see when you open the lid, these screws are not super glued and will come out. 2 on each side in the back, 2 in the center of the front, long screws go in the back, short in the front.

There are 2 white wires, 1 black wire, 1 green wire that run up the neck of the waffle maker to heat the top and bottom heating elements. The 2 white wires are neutral, the green wire is a ground, the black wire is power.

This black wire runs from the electronic control board in the base of the unit, up the neck in the rear, through a thermal fuse, to the bottom element then jumps up to the top element. All you need to take apart is the bottom plate, the part you pour the batter into. It has 4 screws you will see when you open the top plate up, take those out and you are going to find the black wire is covered by a white rubber like tube about 3 inches long. In the center of this rubber insulation there is a metal clip with a single screw. Take that screw out, pull off the metal clip and slide (don't cut) the rubber like insulation back.

You will find the black wire is crimped onto a silver metal bullet looking component. This component is called a "thermal fuse", its designed to fail at 240 degrees C. Its obviously a design flaw and the thermal fuse is under rated for the actual heat within the device. Its also a one shot fuse, so when it blows it kills power on the black wire from going to the top and bottom plates, thus no heat. It is not resettable.

I didn't even cut mine out (Waring is very skimpy with their wire, they don't leave you even a hint of extra wire to work with). I just tightly twisted the bare metal wire on each side of this component like a bread tie leaving the blown fuse in place. Then be sure to slide the rubber like insulation back over all of the bare metal so it is covering the black wire on both sides. If you don't it will short out and blow your house circuit breaker when you turn it on.

This thermal fuse was probably a requirement of the UL Listing. Its over kill, everything in there is metal so if it over heats in that area there is nothing flammable to burn. If a run away temperature occurs the wire itself will melt, short out and trip your house breaker. There are stacks of these units brand new with this same problem anyone reading this is having, the thermal fuse is under rated, the fix is simple.

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