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go to a radio shack or like store and get a adapter plug to match your new unit , that way you don"t have to cut no wires and its a piece of cake to just plug in this thing will plug in to the dodge plug and the other end plugs in to your new unit
Hi Here are a few things to check: ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then: Check your Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached. Check the Door Switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch. If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse. If you do not have a volt/ohm meter then: DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system. If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly. Bud
Here are a few other things to check beside the fuse and relay:
Check Wiper Motor - the wiper motor is the driving force of the windshield wiper. Feel the motor and listen to a humming sound. If there is no humming, the motor is the problem. Check if the motor is working properly and see to it that its electrical connections are made properly. If you find that the motor is dead and beyond repair, get it replaced immediately.
Check For Break in Connecting Wires - the connecting wires of the motor sometimes go loose and that may cause the windshield wipers to stop working. Also check the battery plug connection which the motor has. Connecting the loose wires properly or fixing/replacing the plug might solve your problem.
Check Wiper Switch - another wiper assembly part that can malfunction is the wiper switch itself. Check for switch malfunction and if you find that is indeed the problem, get it replaced from a mechanic.
Check for Bent Wiper Arms - bent wiper arms can cause the operation of the wipers to be hampered. If the wiper arms are bent beyond repair, get them replaced immediately.
To troubleshoot car windshield wiper problems, you need to thoroughly
investigate problems with any of its operating parts. Here are some of
the things that you need to check to determine why are your car
windshield wipers not working.
Check Wiper Motor
The wiper motor is the driving force of the windshield wiper. Feel the
motor and listen to a humming sound. If there is no humming, the motor
is the problem. Check if the motor is working properly and see to it
that its electrical connections are made properly. If you find that the
motor is dead and beyond repair, get it replaced immediately.
Check For Break in Connecting Wires
The connecting wires of the motor sometimes go loose and that may cause
the windshield wipers to stop working. Also check the battery plug
connection which the motor has. Connecting the loose wires properly or
fixing/replacing the plug might solve your problem.
Check Wiper Switch
Another wiper assembly part that can malfunction is the wiper switch
itself. Check for switch malfunction and if you find that is indeed the
problem, get it replaced from a mechanic.
Check for Bent Wiper Arms
Bent wiper arms can cause the operation of the wipers to be hampered. If
the wiper arms are bent beyond repair, get them replaced immediately.
Check For Blown Out Car Fuse
A blown up car fuse could be the culprit that has stopped the windshield
wipers from working. Check the fuse assembly under the dashboard of the
car. Replacing a blown fuse might fix the problem of windshield wipers
Windshield Wiper Sprayers Not Working - Things to Check
Sometimes the windshield wiper sprayer stops working which can be very
annoying. The washer mechanism is a self cleaning mechanism for the
windshield. Here are some of the things that you need to check in case
it is not working.
Check Windshield Washer Motor
The windshield washer mechanism might have been impaired due to the
malfunctioning of the wiper washer motor. Check if its working and get
it replaced if it is beyond repair.
Check Windshield Washer Fluid Level
Sometimes the washer doesn't work because the washer fluid levels are
not filled to requisite levels. Filling in fluid might restore normal
Check For Broken Washer Hose
The connecting washer hose that connects the reservoir to the nozzle,
might be broken or worn out stalling the overall operation. Check the
hose for leaks and get it replaced.
Check Washer Nozzle For Clogging
Last thing to check is the nozzle of the washer for clogging. An
obstruction in the washer nozzle might be the reason for windshield
wiper sprayers not working. Using a pin, clean the clogged nozzle. This
might restore the sprayer to the normal working condition.
I must assume that when the light goes out (quickly after it goes on) that you can turn it on again very soon and the same thing will occur. This cold be an overload; that is, the timer is designed for handling 300 watts (as an example) and you have 400 or more watts of lighting, therefore the timer is saying this is too much and cutting off. Or there can be a bad light that is drawing too much electric such as a fluorecent light with a bad ballast. Or, if this outlet where the switch was, has only 2 wires that went to the old switch (and no other wires) then you may be feeding current into the new timer switch and shorting it out. The essential point is: is this switch outlet box with only 2 wires where the black and white both went to the switch, or are there more wires where 2 blacks (or a black & red) went to the old switch and the white wires are nutted together and not attached to the old switch.
You need to determine the wiring system within the box before you can determine how to apply them to this timer unit. Remember, the timer needs a nuetral and ahot just to operate, then it needs to feed this operated conrolled electric to the light via the red output wire. Regular switches do not work in this manner.
Ther are two wires,one power one ground.The ground wire should be grounded already[confirm with an ohm meter.You need to put a power sorce to the switch and one from it to the pto this will make it work but will make all the safety switches in-operable so it is not a safe thing to do.Your best bet is to replace the swich or the safety switch that is keeping it from working[seat switch or brake switch usually].
Switches always connect to hot (black) wires. In some cases you may find a white wire with the end taped black denoting it is serving as a hot (black) wire. Or you may find a white wire connected to the switch. If that's the case, the prior electrician did not properly mark the wire and it should be marked as a black wire. Wrap the end with black electrical tape after disconnecting.
I have one right in front of me and can tell you what color each wire is, from top left of plastic wiring port. Black/ green ? Grey/black ? Blue Power Antennae Black Ground Black/white ? Green/black ? Red/green ? Left Lower row Gray/red ? Red Accessory/Ppwer Orange Battery Memory power Green ?
The simplest would be to connect the power supply to a motherboard since this is where the on/off switch is also connected. The power supply needs to be triggered on before it will operate. Plugging in power from the mains is not enough.
Alternately in most PC power supplies, you can try force triggering to turn it on with just your fan and lights connected. This is done by shorting the Green (or Gray in some) wire to the GND (black) wire on the biggest connector.
In most modern power supply designs, it needs a load across the +5V rail
(latch on) to operate otherwise it will power on but then immediately switch off
when it senses that there is no load connected. Sometimes this can be defeated by shorting the Orange (Power Good) wire to the Red (+5) wire.
A word of caution, some old Dell power supply as well as a few other brands do not follow the standard wiring color coding
Hope that this be of some help/idea. Pls post back how things worked out or should you need additional information.