Heat pump takes from 1 to 10 trys to bring the compressor on. When it does come on it is really noisey and runs forever before the stat is satisfied. Stat is in a ok place where it senses the whole house and out of the sun. I think the problem is the dual capacitor for the fan and compressor, the fan has no problem coming on. Could you give me some other things to check?
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: heat pump takes many trys to start compressor
Do the thermostat have a time delay on it? most digital ones do you may have to get one if thats the case. Also are there start components on the unit? I've had top add them due to the newer units hasve nonbleed txv's and have a hard time starting up because of them. ans if oyu can see if there's a crank case heater on the unit becaause refrigerant migrates to the coldest spot and the compressor can have all the refrigerant inside of the can mixed with the oil. goof luck
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Auxiliary Heat is used to turn the electric heat strips ON, If the heat pump is not working. Or if the heat pump can't bring the space temperature up to Set Temperature it will display Aux Heat ON....... Assuming you have a Heat Pump System with Auxiliary Electric Heat as Back up...... If the tech didn't install a jumper wire from AUX to W on the subase which is in back of the Display on the Thermostat.....you won't get Auxiliary Heat if the Thermostat is set for Auxiliary Heat. Other wise the thermostat will turn the heat pump on first and then the electric heat (Aux Heat) if it needs it to satisfy the set temperature....... Hope this helps
what it sounds like happening is the unit is realizing it is falling behind most thermostat s have a 3 degree deadband if they fall 3 degrees or more at a time after running for so long then it will bring on the emergency heat which is located in your inside unit... when it gets really colds and you see this you need to go outside and look is the outside unit still running and is it freezing up on you...also if running check the larger of two pipes make sure the large pipe is hot to touch...based on the description you have given the thermostat is calling for emergency heat but for some reason is not bringing it on or there is a problem with the emergency heat.... hope this helps out some
repost with any additional questions...
you need to get wall switch and wire to this changed as it is impossible to test these for faults as can happen after a few hours of operating (usually to do with the heat of the fire place dso if it has a fan hopefully you are using it it'll keep components cooler in heater and stop things like this happening), but i'm assuming that cable to wall switch runs down side of heater or something and i'm guessing its got hot maybe melted to side of heater and may have damaged wall switch so i would replace both, this has really been the only problem i have had all year with heaters and its due to turning the fan off which you can do in some heaters that arn't entirly designed for heating, if you are heating with a gas heater its important to run fan no matter how noisey it may be and there not that noisey really just turn tv up i'd rather be warm through winter than hear my tv so i'd rather hear a fan than the news, most of the time it sounds more intresting anyway and i have heard of mechanics that have pulled out melted fans from heaters because they were off, i have found cables starting to melt too so its a safety issue too and lastley if your not running fan heat goes up flu waste of money so i think its important and would have maore than half of call outs less as it has been a problem with heaters with turning fan off, i may be wrong but i'm guessing this may be the problem and if you do use fan the cable to wall switch may be down side of heater making contact with a hot surface and melting causing problem i would also do switch aswell as heat could have damaged to as cable would have conducted heat to switch
Are you talking about a heat pump? Is the compressor and fan running in the outside unit? What is the outside temp? If the compressor is not running it could be a bad capacitor or bad compressor. If the lines are icing up it could be a low charge.
If this is a heat pump depending on the outside temp. it may not bring the temp. up. It is really not efficent to run a heat pump below freezing or near freezing.I suggest running the Auxillary electric heat if. Most heat pumps have auxilarry back up electric heat banks installed in them.
Make sure G from indoor unit goes to G on thermostat for fan continous fan, if that doesn't work and you have 24 volts to R and C then the t'stat is bad.
For 2nd stage heat or aux.heat, on the indoor unit you need to make sure the wire W2 from the indoor unit goes to W2 on t'stat.
You don't need any wires from W1on the indoor unit to W1 at the t'stat because with a York heat pump Y1 is the contactor which turns the compressor on and you will get 1st stage heat, and for cooling the t'stat will also bring on O which is the (reversing valve) or cooling changeover relay for the cooling mode.
C = common usually black wire
R = hot usually red wire
Y or Y1 = contactor
W1 = 1st stage heat not needed for heat pump
W2 = Aux. heat indoor heat
G = fan
O = Cooling changeover relay
B = Heating changeover relay
L = System monitor
E = Emergency heat relay