Question about Kenmore Elite Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Travioso, there was two service flashes out on this model concerning the seal and bearing which means they had an issue with this washer. The howling noise you are hearing is the bearing and will need the new designed triple seal and bearing kit. This should be covered under your warranty, I believe it is 5 years. The numbers for the service flashes are TDL-0048A-B. Call Maytag and inquire about these service flashes, these should be covered. Catriver.
Posted on Jul 25, 2006
SOURCE: loud noise at end of spin cycle
The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
Usually this is due to either the drum support breaking or the back bearing being bad-neither easy to fix- or worth it. Try lifting the drum up and down, if it moves up and down they are bad. I see this a lot, and the price of repair isn't worth it. Craig
Posted on Aug 02, 2009
The bearings have collapesd due to the seal going faulty. If bearings can be accessed to from the outside, it is possible you could do the repair. If big bearing and seal is accessed from the inside, suggest tech. do it as it gets dirty and a lot more complex.
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
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