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Re: no a/c output from battery backup side
Your battery is dead. As with all economy UPS units, these batteries are NiCad technology, meaning a usable life of 2 years average. Due to its weight and disposal issues with dead batteries, your best option is to go with an APC BC or BR series UPS.
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* Check 12 volt DC system (may be camper battery or car battery, though most only use the camper battery.)
* Camper may be using 12 volt DC lights so it can be turned on while your on the road or not hooked up to an 120 VAC or 240 VAC outlet.
* If you are using 120 VAC lights then check the neutral line (note; HIGH voltage here. Get help from an electrician or at least the RV park handyman.) The problem may be at the outlet (the RV site's problem) or more likely in your plug or cable (the big cord) as it does get abused, run over, kinked, etc. Need to have it checked by an electrician.
* Check the light bulbs; is it seated properly? Replace if burnt out. Have electrician test if there is power at the socket.
* Final; Be safe and have a qualified electrician service your camper.
There`s two configurations that you need to check.
On UPS display, what voltaje is showing as output voltage?
There`s a chance that it is configured to 200 vac, then the transformer module will convert this to 100/200 vac.
If this is not the situation, probably the error is in the input connection of transformer module.
What is the sound? Is the device working normally? Are there any lights or indicators? Do they indicate a fault or error?
A UPS runs on standard 110-120 VAC power. It converts the input power to DC and charges internal batteries, then back to AC. Connected devices actually run on the conditioned 115-120 VAC output. The batteries serve as a short term backup power source.
The electronics in the UPS can produce hum or high pitched tones. The sound should not be annoying. If it is louder than connected equipment (computers) it may indicate a problem. Hum is usually 60 Hz harmonics and difficult to eliminate. This harmonic may be transferred to audio equipment such as speakers or radios. A high pitched tone can be related to the rectifiers for the convertor/invertor. If the tone is loud, it means the rectifiers are drawing a lot of current. This is usually related to bad batteries.
Measure the voltage on the output receptacles. It should be 115-120 VAC. Disconnect everything on the output receptacles. Unplug the UPS from it's power source. If the output power dies within 1 minute, the batteries need to be replaced.
Hi, to isolate the faulty transformer, one need to obtain a Multimeter and set it to Volts AC, then going to the Output of each transformer & see if there is the required 12V there. The one that's NOT providing an output is the faulty one.
In these setups you are correct there is little else it can be. However check at the connections to the lights also, see if there is Voltage there too.
A transformer will have the 120 V AC on the Primary, INPUT side, and 12 V AC on the Secondary OUTPUT side.
Try testing right on the transformers terminals. Also remove the "Load" too when making measurements as if there is a short etc, then that may give a false reading. Always measure Voltages first with NO load, then test again with the Load, they should both be the same, if NOT then you have a fault NOT in the transformer but elsewhere in the circuit.
arif qc, Are you using a DMM that is or will make "true RMS" measurements or is it an "average responding" type of voltmeter? Is this APC ups designed for 120 vac input/output or is this unit a 220 vac input/output type? Use only a "TRUE RMS" type DMM to make your measurements!!! I believe if you visit Tripp-Lite site, you will find a tutorial video clip of why you should use a true-rms meter to make measurements of output voltages. 12fixlouie
No, I don't think there is anything wrong. Your UPS seems to have a single phase 240V output, which seems to be "floating" (no or only a weak ground reference). Just be aware that you can only power 240V equipment from it. If you need 120V for some devices _and_ if the UPS provides sine wave output, you could use a step down transformer for this purpose.
Double check your brush istallation. positive side toward rotor bearing, if you put 12 vdc directly into brush pack and check with a meter at the 120 vac outlet and have low or no voltage, you may have no resistance in your rotor slip rings, excitor & main windings also need a resistance check. 12.6-16.7 ohms (rotor) 2.26-2.80 ohms (excitation) .26-.32/.28-.35 main or power windings. Note: unit running when appling 12 volts to brush pack. 2-5 second only, ( This test tells you the rotor & stotor are ok )
This is normal in some lower end UPS's, the voltage can swing quite a bit, a drop of 40 seems like quite a bit but it's out of the question. It will also adapt to what is plugged in yes. Ultimately to test you would want to try it with something like an actual PC plugged in and make sure it stays running. I'd say otherwise it sounds normal to me.