Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
Older machine. 70 series
What is the model number of your unit?
Could you please describe the problem you are having a little better?
Posted on Nov 30, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The most likely cause for water fill temperature problems is the solenoid has burned out, usually cold first, it gets used more. Not a repairable item , easy to replace
Posted on May 25, 2008
This is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. If your model number is correct, the lid switch for your washer is located under the right hand side of the washer casing along the wash tub rim. The switch is activated by a small plastic piece on the washer lid (called a "lid strike") through a small hole. The switch contacts close when you shut the lid. In many cases, the lid switch either comes loose, or the lid strike breaks off. In both cases, the washer will exhibit the symptoms you describe.
Open and close the washer lid and listen for a distinctive "clicking" sound as the switch contacts close. If you cannot hear the switch, make sure the lid strike is intact and the mounting screws for the lid switch (located around the wash tub opening on the casing) are tight. Sometimes, all it takes is to tighten the lid switch screws to realign it with the lid strike. If the switch is defective, or the strike is missing, parts can be ordered on line at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number, which can be found on a nameplate under the washer lid. The lid switch and lid strike will be listed under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. Other sites that offer competitive pricing are repairclinic.com and appliancepartspros.com. If you require instructions on how to replace the switch, you may use the following link:
If you have questions, or if the diagnosis is incorrect, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Jan 14, 2009
Yeah you need to replace the water valve. To get to it you need to remove the cabinet on the newer direct drive models, If yours has a rear access panel then you simply pop the top to get to the valve after removing the hoses. Fairly simple job. Here is a good website for direct drive coupling replacement . It shows you how to open the cabinet. http://repair2000.com/coupling.html
GVI 151 is the generic part that fix all belt drive models. Direct drive will need its own little water valve buy hay it ain't but 20 bucks.
For a better explanation post you model number in the comment box and I will research it further for you amigo.
Posted on Jan 21, 2009
If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you, indeed, may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
A replacement coupling can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria. Let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: There are other problems that can cause the washer symptoms as you describe, but the motor coupling is the least expensive and easiest solution to try first. If the motor coupling is still intact, please let me know.
Posted on May 27, 2009
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