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Weedeater welrvba30 back wheels won't turn

I replaced the whole clutch assembly/friction drive

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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rycgl
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SOURCE: how do you remove clutch

Good question, and here is a good solution!
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/1771/How_to_Remove_a_Trimmer_Clutch.html

Posted on Sep 20, 2010

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SOURCE: I had a guy work on the issue, replaced head

Sounds like he did a bunch of stuff, but what I do not see is adjusting the valve gaps.

I hope this helps you get going.

Posted on Aug 05, 2011

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Replace friction wheel Snapper 3317523BVE (7800254) - Snapper 33" Rear-Engine Rider


Warren, Could not find your particular model, Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
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May 13, 2016 | Snapper Garden

1 Answer

The machine doesn't spin properly and doesn't drain the water


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Lid Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission. Another common problem is the lid switch.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin properly.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer spin the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

Drive Block If the washer won't spin the drive block might be worn out or may have come loose. Underneath the agitator the drive block connects the inner tub (the one that spins around) to the transmission. If the drive block wears out the transmission shaft will still spin but the tub may not - or it may spin slowly. This also usually causes a lot of noise. The drive block is relatively easy to replace.

Clutch Assembly If the washer won't spin, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Clutch Band kit If the washer won't spin, the clutch band kit might be worn out. The clutch makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. If the washer won't spin, this clutch band kit may need to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged It will have to be replaced.

Tub Bearing If the washer won't spin the tub bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer won't spin the tub seal and bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Bearing If the washer won't spin the bearing might have seized. This is not common. The bearing doesn't require any normal maintenance. They generally go bad when the tub seal fails and allows water to leak past into the bearing.
Basket Drive If the washer won't spin the basket drive clutch might be worn out. The basket drive sits on top of the transmission and engages with the inner tub. If the basket drive wears out the tub won't spin.

Basket Drive Hub Kit If the washer won't spin the basket drive hub might be worn out. The hub is a set of plastic gears underneath the agitator. The basket drive hub kit is easy to replace with standard hand tools.
Transmission If the washer won't spin the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are numerous more likely causes when a washer won't spin, which should be checked first.
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Sep 28, 2012 | Hotpoint Washing Machines

1 Answer

Replacing pump belt on 968999258 model (Kohler)


Hi, The whole clutch assembly should have a centre bolt into the crankshaft, once removed the whole clutch assembly slides off the crankshaft. Regards Phil.

Jun 19, 2012 | Husqvarna Iz5223 Zero Turn Commerical Lawn...

1 Answer

My throw out bearins went bad can i just replace them


Throw out bearing? Do you mean the clutch release bearing, aka throw-out bearing? There is only one in a clutch system, and, yes, they can be replaced, without replacing the cluytch disc or the pressure plate. But if it is making noise, it is good practice to do the whole clutch replacement while the transmission is removed. If your budget won't allow that, at least check the clutch friction plates for wear.

Mar 18, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My M109's clutch was slipping, I inspected and replaced all drive and driven plates as well as the pressure plate, clutch springs (using heavy duty aftermarket springs) "push piece" and...


The two friction plates " off to the side " are the first and last plates to go into the clutch assembly. They are usually .005 to .007 thicker than the center plates. There's no extra link in the drive train that would mimic slippage. The springs are not likely to be the problem, especially since you have new ones. The usual sources for the problem are resistance in the drive train; on the stand, does the wheel turn freely in neutral? Is there any binding in the shaft drive? Another source is using the wrong lubricant in the gearbox. Use what Suzuki sells for the bike. I think the clutch is hydraulic on that bike. A bad slave or master cylinder could cause back pressure and not let the clutch fully engage.

Aug 01, 2011 | Suzuki 1190 RC8 Carbon Motorcycles

1 Answer

My clutch went out just driving out of the driveway...although it seems like it isn't the clutch itself. There were no prior problems with it so I am thinking that it is something else. I can shift...


hi.

from your description, it sounds like the clutch friction plate has worn down and the grinding noise is caused by the rivets holding the friction material in place rubbing against the flycheel and the clutch cover.

i think that the best advice i can give you here is to find a mechanic who can do the job for you, or at least help you with the job..
i can understand that finances can be an issue, but changing a clutch is not a job to try with limited mechanical experience.
most clutch changes involve removal of the drive shafts (front wheel drive) or the prop shaft (rear wheel drive). then complete removal of the gearbox........ then the clutch cover needs to be removed, the clutch plate replaced and realigned. then it all need to be replaced.

i do not think it would be fair of me to advise trying this job yourself with limited experience, but if you do need to do this yourself, then i can only recommend that you get hold of a good workshop manual, that should have step by step instructions on the clutch change, usually with photos and diagrams.

i hope this advice helps.

Jun 20, 2011 | Chevrolet S 10 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How can i assemble the cg125 clutches assembly?


what do you mean by clutch assy? if your pertaining to the whole assy. 1st the clucth housing fit it in the mainshaft, thenthe trust washer... leave it hold the clutch center put the clutch friction disk then alternate with the clutch plate until you assemble the whole set... lastly put the clutch pressure plate... then put the whole assy to the clutch housing(clutch outer comp. then assemble the clutch springs then the clutch lifter... thats it...

Feb 01, 2011 | Honda CG 125 Titan ES Motorcycles

1 Answer

Hi I have an xvz 1300 , hasa hi pitch noise comming from g/ box at high speed Thank you greg


Unfortunately, you can get noise from the transmission, clutch basket, drive shaft, pinion gears or rear wheel on the Royal Star. No way to tell which you have so:

Barring a failure of the clutch, a change to a multi-grade synthetic oil THAT DOES NOT HAVE AN ENERGY-CONSERVING SEAL ON THE BOTTLE will quiet (but not necessarily eliminate) gear and clutch noise. Energy-conserving oils tend to make a wet clutch slip. Try Shell Rotella-T (T6) synthetic, available at Walmart for about $19.00 a gallon. Broken clutch springs and bent or warped clutch and friction plates can also be noisy, but that is typically experienced across the whole speed range; fixing a problem like that would involve replacement of the clutch assembly. The transmission gears are straight-cut for strength, and tend to be noisier than bevel-cut gears, still, if the noise remains annoying after an oil change, have the dealer or, better yet, a veteran Royal Star rider, evaluate the noise to see if it is excessive.

The drive shaft on the Royal Star can also make noise if both ends are not properly lubricated; tourers have found that Honda Moly 60 paste on both ends at about 15,000 mile intervals will eliminate that aggravation.

Hypoid gears in the final drive can also be noisy. Short of having the drive disassembled and replacement shims installed, changing to a good synthetic 75W-140 lubricant will quiet or eliminate the whine.

Splines and pins in the final drive and rear wheel assembly can also cause noise. Remove the rear wheel, put a thin layer of Honda Moly 60 paste on the pins, dampers and in the drive spline, ditto with the mating spline on the final drive. I relubricate all of these every time I change rear tires, probably more often than necessary, but it's convenient to do when the wheel is off.

Mar 18, 2010 | 2000 Yamaha Royal Star Venture

1 Answer

Will not engage foward or back .


Remove the cover on the very bottom under the engine, you will see a wheel with rubber ( the friction wheel ) on it, when you squeeze the handle for the drive you should not be able to turn that wheel by hand. First check to see if there is enough rubber extending from the metal disk it is attached to, if there is then it might be just adjusting the drive cable till the drive disc grabs the friction wheel sufficiently. If there isn't enough rubber or the rubber is chewed up you may need to replace the rubber part ( if the disc has screws in it to be able to seperate) or replace the whole wheel ( if the disc doesn't come apart ).

Jan 12, 2009 | Ariens 34 In. Zoom Series Riding Mower

3 Answers

Ariens Snowblower won't engage into drive


I had the same problem with my 5HP Dual stage (C950-520240) Canadian model and found that the arm connected to the traction cable (part #85449 "Shaft Traction Clutch") which forces the friction disk up to the rubber friction wheel had a cracked weld and had bent, preventing positive contact with the rubber friction wheel. The drive wheels would turn if you lifted the back of the machine off the ground, but would not work if under load. First I replaced the belt and rubber friction wheel, but no go. I had to basically disassemble the whole drive assembly to find the problem, very frustrating because you could not see the crack in the arm from head on. I had the cracked and bent arm straightened and welded, all is OK now. enb54.jpg

Dec 05, 2008 | Ariens 34 In. Zoom Series Riding Mower

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