My maytag wount spin

Need model #. It really depends on how machine is designed as to what problems may be.

the typical tensioner should be able to be bent a little to tighten up the tension

I found one of my motor mounts loose. The unbalance cracked and broke the base of the washer. I found this when the machine stopped spinning. I am replacing the base(expensive) and transmission pulley. The motor mount is on the front right bottom. You may find the same when you tilt the washer back. I would tighten it up now!

The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler Spin cycle Siphoning Water-inlet valve Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

It sounds as if the floating motor mount is no longer floating or the 2 springs inside of that floating / gliding mount are not working correctly. There are also 4 hard rubber clear washers that are part of the gliding mount. If any one of the 4 of those washers has broken the motor does not glide properly and will not tighten the belt properly for the spin cycle to work. Make sure the unit is unplugged reach underneath the left front corner and feel for a 2 V belt groved pulley. First push the pulley inward 45 deg from the corner and let it go.... If it is working properly it should automatically tension the belt. If is sticks in position the either the springs or washer have failed. This is not an expensive repair. IF you call for a repairman make sure he checks the condition of the tub drive belt. The motor has been placing undue wear on the drive belt due to it being loose.

clean motor rollers(belt may be slipping)






















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Hi, The belt must have came off. Remove the access panel in the front and see if the belt broke. If the belt is off, see if there is an access panel in the rear that will help you get to the belt easier.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.

Vic

http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php Check the motor pivot spring, too. It holds the belt tight. Check this site for parts and help.

The motor switch that is mounted on the motor may need replacing. The knocking could mean that the "run" winding is cutting off momentarily, and running on the "start" winding of the motor. I dont know about a 22 year old model, but in most "near modern" machines, the switch has a plastic actuator that is pushed when the motor obtains near-run speed, that plastic may be worn or the actuator part on the motor may be at fault. If you replace the motor, you usually get this switch as part of the deal.

I had the same problem with my Bosch 2060, which is almost 6yrs old. After opening the back of the washer and inspecting, belt looked good and not loose. Spending several hrs on net looking for postings, most thinking replacement of motor brushes is the solution. Someone posted that the connector on the right side of motor (located under the tub) to the right side could be loose. I pushed on the connector to make sure it was tight. Powered up and went to spin cycle and was greatly relieved that washer began to spin. Thanks for whoever posted this simple fix.