Question about Treadmill Doctor Exercise & Fitness

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Treadmill broken handlebar

The handlebar is broken. The connector on one end has come unwelded and is lost. So I can not reattach the handlebar to the console of the treadmill. Is there anyway to find a replacement handlebar? It is a Bodyguard Magellan Plus treadmill. The treadmill still works great otherwise.

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1 Answer

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  • Treadmill Do... Master
  • 12,223 Answers

Go to www.fitnessrepairparts.com and buy it

God bless you

Posted on Nov 29, 2012

  • Wendi Colby Dec 19, 2012

    Thank you so much for your suggestion! They were unable to find the part I needed, but it was definitely worth a try!

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: bodyguard t300 treadmill. belt will not turn

Smashed harness created short.

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

  • 208 Answers

SOURCE: the console of my treadmill displays time and speed incorrectly

Hi. if you are talking about the same segment in all the characters of your display being lit, then it is a console problem - it will not be a hard thing to fix but you will need a board level electronic serviceperson to do it for you

Posted on May 07, 2010

maxtreadmill
  • 832 Answers

SOURCE: Bodyguard T240 wont start

To use these instructions, you need to have a familiarity with electricity and a working knowledge of a voltage multimeter. With all of these tests, USE EXTREME CAUTION!!! Never let the voltage ground directly to any part of the treadmill or your leads ground while you are testing voltage.
1) To begin, set your volt meter to AC volts. We are going to trace the power from the wall outlet through the treadmill to see where it ends.
2) With the treadmill unplugged, test the wall outlet. You should have from 115 to 125 VAC. Optimally, you will have at least 120 VAC.
3) Follow the power leads from the power cord to the lead ends. With the treadmill unplugged, connect your meter to the lead ends. Plug the treadmill in and check your reading. It should be the same as your reading from the wall outlet.
4) Continue this process with the electrical system, following the leads, as they pass through, breakers, fuses, and the like.
5) Where the power flow ends is where your problem is. Sometimes it will be in a bad connection, sometimes it will be in a shorted breaker or blown fuse, at times it may be as simple as a safety switch not working properly, or it may be a major problem with a component.
6) In some cases, components work in tandem (i.e.- a controller may need a signal from the console computer to release voltage to the motor.
TESTING FUSES, BREAKERS, WIRING, AND SWITCHES
1) One of the most common problems with power outages is problems with fuses, breakers, wiring, or switches.
2) If your treadmill is equipped with a safety switch, set your volt meter to continuity. Touch your test leads together to make sure you are getting a closed circuit. With the treadmill unplugged, back the leads off the safety switch, usually near the upper display computer. With the safety key out, test the switch. It should be open. Push the safety key in. Your circuit should be closed. If this tests ok, move to the next step.

3) While testing for voltage, you can unplug your treadmill and test the fuses, breakers, and wiring harnesses. Sometimes a breaker may have shorted open and not tripped. Test these components individually. You want a closed circuit on all of them

Posted on Jul 20, 2010

maxtreadmill
  • 832 Answers

SOURCE: where can i get a replacement safety clip/magnet

Call them directly @ 1-800-373-2639 and ask for service department. This is a French Canadian company all prompts will be in French first then English. Very professional and knowlegable people

Posted on Sep 29, 2010

ercupa190
  • 12223 Answers

SOURCE: I have a bodyguard t260 treadmill and when I run on it there is a great deal of static electricity that shocks me when I touch the treadmill handles

The shock is a build up of static electricity on your body called Electrostatic Discharge (ESD). Friction between the walking board and belt can generate static electricity.

If experienced, the shock is not harmful or dangerous.

Posted on Nov 11, 2011

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1 Answer

Handlebar switch


Hi Mando, you need to get out your test light and find the short and start by making sure the battery has 12 volts or more and clean tight connections especially the ground cable at both ends. If your issues involves lights always check the bulbs for broken filiments and fuses first. Then start at the socket and work your way towards the handlebar switches checking each wiring harness connector for corroded, broken or loose pins and remember dielectric grease is your friend. Check the switches for continuity and work your way towards the ignition switch and check it for continuity. Keep working your way to the fuses and circuit breaker and finally the battery. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below and good luck.
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

Jul 18, 2013 | 2006 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

1 Answer

Life fitness ticking from foot pedal


1Detach the ends of the pedals from the crank axles. Spread a layer of machine grease over the crank axles, then reattach the ends of the pedals.

2

Remove the bolts connecting the pedals to the swing arms. Detach the pedals from the arms, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the swing arms. On some models, the bolts may also serve as the axles. Reattach the pedals to the arms.

3

Remove the bolts connecting the swing arms to the elliptical's upright. Detach the swing arms from the upright, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the upright. Reattach the arms to the upright.

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Unplug the power cord. Identify the pivot points where the lower handlebars and the footpad link arms connect at each side of the machine. Use a screwdriver to remove the inside and outside elbow covers at each connection. This will expose the pivots.

2

Put a box wrench on the lock nut at the inside of one pivot and loosen the bolt with an Allen wrench. Remove the bolt and check the assembly for nylon spacers or a bearing. If no spacer is found, proceed to the next step. Replace the nylon spacers, reassemble the connection and reattach the elbow covers. Repeat this at the opposite side of the machine.

3

Have an assistant hold a deep socket against the inside face of the pivot hub. Make sure the socket is large enough to allow the bearing to pop out. Insert the point of a flat screwdriver into the outside of the hub until it contacts the bearing. Tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer to remove the bearing. Repeat this to remove the bearing on the opposite side.

God bless you

Mar 31, 2013 | Life Fitness X8 Advanced Elliptical Cross...

1 Answer

Proform ZE3 Elyptical screeches constantly


FOLLOW THIS STEPS AND FIX IT. God bless you Lubrication

1

Detach the ends of the pedals from the crank axles. Spread a layer of machine grease over the crank axles, then reattach the ends of the pedals.

2

Remove the bolts connecting the pedals to the swing arms. Detach the pedals from the arms, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the swing arms. On some models, the bolts may also serve as the axles. Reattach the pedals to the arms.

3

Remove the bolts connecting the swing arms to the elliptical's upright. Detach the swing arms from the upright, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the upright. Reattach the arms to the upright.


Link Arms

1

Unplug the power cord. Identify the pivot points where the lower handlebars and the footpad link arms connect at each side of the machine. Use a screwdriver to remove the inside and outside elbow covers at each connection. This will expose the pivots.

2

Put a box wrench on the lock nut at the inside of one pivot and loosen the bolt with an Allen wrench. Remove the bolt and check the assembly for nylon spacers or a bearing. If no spacer is found, proceed to the next step. Replace the nylon spacers, reassemble the connection and reattach the elbow covers. Repeat this at the opposite side of the machine.

3

Have an assistant hold a deep socket against the inside face of the pivot hub. Make sure the socket is large enough to allow the bearing to pop out. Insert the point of a flat screwdriver into the outside of the hub until it contacts the bearing. Tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer to remove the bearing. Repeat this to remove the bearing on the opposite side.

4

Hold each bearing next to one ear and turn the inner race with your finger. If you hear grinding noises or the bearing is rough, it must be replaced. Lubricate the bearing with lithium grease and a grease gun. Replace the bearing into the hub. Reattach the lower handlebars and footpad link arms and put the elbow covers on.
Pedal Arms

1

Use a flat screwdriver to unseat the tabs that hold the front top cover in place. This will expose the flywheel and pedal arm connection points. Rotate the flywheel by hand and determine whether lubrication will accomplish the repairs. If the bearings are exposed, use a grease gun with an extension nozzle and lubricate both bearings with lithium grease. If the bearings are damaged or sealed, proceed to the next step.

2

Remove the front and side covers on the main frame. Hold the flywheel with one hand and use a box wrench to loosen the bolts that secure the pedal arms at each side of the flywheel. Pull the arms away from the flywheel and remove the bearings from each side.

3

Test the bearings as before. Lubricate exposed bearings with lithium grease and reinstall them. Sealed bearings must be replaced. Reattach the pedal arms to the flywheel. Replace the main frame covers and front top cover to complete the repairs.

Mar 22, 2013 | Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

Pedal tention too tight


Step 1:

please proceed with this step . Happy new year and God bless you
Lubrication

1

Detach the ends of the pedals from the crank axles. Spread a layer of machine grease over the crank axles, then reattach the ends of the pedals.

2

Remove the bolts connecting the pedals to the swing arms. Detach the pedals from the arms, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the swing arms. On some models, the bolts may also serve as the axles. Reattach the pedals to the arms.

3

Remove the bolts connecting the swing arms to the elliptical's upright. Detach the swing arms from the upright, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the upright. Reattach the arms to the upright

Step 2:

Pedal Arms

1

Use a flat screwdriver to unseat the tabs that hold the front top cover in place. This will expose the flywheel and pedal arm connection points. Rotate the flywheel by hand and determine whether lubrication will accomplish the repairs. If the bearings are exposed, use a grease gun with an extension nozzle and lubricate both bearings with lithium grease. If the bearings are damaged or sealed, proceed to the next step.

2

Remove the front and side covers on the main frame. Hold the flywheel with one hand and use a box wrench to loosen the bolts that secure the pedal arms at each side of the flywheel. Pull the arms away from the flywheel and remove the bearings from each side.

3

Test the bearings as before. Lubricate exposed bearings with lithium grease and reinstall them. Sealed bearings must be replaced. Reattach the pedal arms to the flywheel. Replace the main frame covers and front top cover to complete the repairs.

Step 3:

Link Arms

1

Unplug the power cord. Identify the pivot points where the lower handlebars and the footpad link arms connect at each side of the machine. Use a screwdriver to remove the inside and outside elbow covers at each connection. This will expose the pivots.

2

Put a box wrench on the lock nut at the inside of one pivot and loosen the bolt with an Allen wrench. Remove the bolt and check the assembly for nylon spacers or a bearing. If no spacer is found, proceed to the next step. Replace the nylon spacers, reassemble the connection and reattach the elbow covers. Repeat this at the opposite side of the machine.

3

Have an assistant hold a deep socket against the inside face of the pivot hub. Make sure the socket is large enough to allow the bearing to pop out. Insert the point of a flat screwdriver into the outside of the hub until it contacts the bearing. Tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer to remove the bearing. Repeat this to remove the bearing on the opposite side.

4

Hold each bearing next to one ear and turn the inner race with your finger. If you hear grinding noises or the bearing is rough, it must be replaced. Lubricate the bearing with lithium grease and a grease gun. Replace the bearing into the hub. Reattach the lower handlebars and footpad link arms and put the elbow covers on.
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Jan 01, 2013 | Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

My proform spacesaver 500 eliptical is making a clicking sound


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
Lubrication

1

Detach the ends of the pedals from the crank axles. Spread a layer of machine grease over the crank axles, then reattach the ends of the pedals.

2

Remove the bolts connecting the pedals to the swing arms. Detach the pedals from the arms, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the swing arms. On some models, the bolts may also serve as the axles. Reattach the pedals to the arms.

3

Remove the bolts connecting the swing arms to the elliptical's upright. Detach the swing arms from the upright, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the upright. Reattach the arms to the upright
Link Arms

1

Unplug the power cord. Identify the pivot points where the lower handlebars and the footpad link arms connect at each side of the machine. Use a screwdriver to remove the inside and outside elbow covers at each connection. This will expose the pivots.

2

Put a box wrench on the lock nut at the inside of one pivot and loosen the bolt with an Allen wrench. Remove the bolt and check the assembly for nylon spacers or a bearing. If no spacer is found, proceed to the next step. Replace the nylon spacers, reassemble the connection and reattach the elbow covers. Repeat this at the opposite side of the machine.

3

Have an assistant hold a deep socket against the inside face of the pivot hub. Make sure the socket is large enough to allow the bearing to pop out. Insert the point of a flat screwdriver into the outside of the hub until it contacts the bearing. Tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer to remove the bearing. Repeat this to remove the bearing on the opposite side.

4

Hold each bearing next to one ear and turn the inner race with your finger. If you hear grinding noises or the bearing is rough, it must be replaced. Lubricate the bearing with lithium grease and a grease gun. Replace the bearing into the hub. Reattach the lower handlebars and footpad link arms and put the elbow covers on.
Pedal Arms

1

Use a flat screwdriver to unseat the tabs that hold the front top cover in place. This will expose the flywheel and pedal arm connection points. Rotate the flywheel by hand and determine whether lubrication will accomplish the repairs. If the bearings are exposed, use a grease gun with an extension nozzle and lubricate both bearings with lithium grease. If the bearings are damaged or sealed, proceed to the next step.

2

Remove the front and side covers on the main frame. Hold the flywheel with one hand and use a box wrench to loosen the bolts that secure the pedal arms at each side of the flywheel. Pull the arms away from the flywheel and remove the bearings from each side.

3

Test the bearings as before. Lubricate exposed bearings with lithium grease and reinstall them. Sealed bearings must be replaced. Reattach the pedal arms to the flywheel. Replace the main frame covers and front top cover to complete the repairs.

Nov 30, 2012 | Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

I have a Freespirit 110 Elliptical purchased from Sears some time ago. Recently, there is a grinding noise coming from the wheel, possibly worn bearings?


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

Detach the ends of the pedals from the crank axles. Spread a layer of machine grease over the crank axles, then reattach the ends of the pedals.
2

Remove the bolts connecting the pedals to the swing arms. Detach the pedals from the arms, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the swing arms. On some models, the bolts may also serve as the axles. Reattach the pedals to the arms.
3

Remove the bolts connecting the swing arms to the elliptical's upright. Detach the swing arms from the upright, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the upright. Reattach the arms to the upright.



Link Arms 1

Unplug the power cord. Identify the pivot points where the lower handlebars and the footpad link arms connect at each side of the machine. Use a screwdriver to remove the inside and outside elbow covers at each connection. This will expose the pivots.
2

Put a box wrench on the lock nut at the inside of one pivot and loosen the bolt with an Allen wrench. Remove the bolt and check the assembly for nylon spacers or a bearing. If no spacer is found, proceed to the next step. Replace the nylon spacers, reassemble the connection and reattach the elbow covers. Repeat this at the opposite side of the machine.
3

Have an assistant hold a deep socket against the inside face of the pivot hub. Make sure the socket is large enough to allow the bearing to pop out. Insert the point of a flat screwdriver into the outside of the hub until it contacts the bearing. Tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer to remove the bearing. Repeat this to remove the bearing on the opposite side.
4

Hold each bearing next to one ear and turn the inner race with your finger. If you hear grinding noises or the bearing is rough, it must be replaced. Lubricate the bearing with lithium grease and a grease gun. Replace the bearing into the hub. Reattach the lower handlebars and footpad link arms and put the elbow covers on.


Pedal Arms 1

Use a flat screwdriver to unseat the tabs that hold the front top cover in place. This will expose the flywheel and pedal arm connection points. Rotate the flywheel by hand and determine whether lubrication will accomplish the repairs. If the bearings are exposed, use a grease gun with an extension nozzle and lubricate both bearings with lithium grease. If the bearings are damaged or sealed, proceed to the next step.
2

Remove the front and side covers on the main frame. Hold the flywheel with one hand and use a box wrench to loosen the bolts that secure the pedal arms at each side of the flywheel. Pull the arms away from the flywheel and remove the bearings from each side.
3

Test the bearings as before. Lubricate exposed bearings with lithium grease and reinstall them. Sealed bearings must be replaced. Reattach the pedal arms to the flywheel. Replace the main frame covers and front top cover to complete the repairs.

Oct 15, 2012 | Free Spirit FREESPIRIT CROSSTRAINER 970...

1 Answer

How do i change handlebars on a 2010 Dyna


Unplug the handlebar wires where they connect to the wiring harness. Remove the black electrical connectors at the end of the wires. Pull the wires through the ends of the handlebars. Silicone lubricant sprayed into the bars will make this a bit easier, and you should be able to leave the silver pins on the ends of the wires, saving yourself some work when installing your new bars. Leave the wires connected at the handlebar controls when doing this. Just unscrew the controls from the bars and pull the wires.

Aug 21, 2012 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide

1 Answer

I want to change the handlebars on my 09 road king. How does the throttle sensor come out?


TWIST GRIP SENSOR 4.10


REMOVAL

Remove the left side saddlebag, remove the left side cover, remove the main fuse, (Do not remove the switch housing assembly without first placing the 5/32 inch (4.0 mm) cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removal without the insert may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch. Use the eyelet of an ordinary cable strap if the cardboard insert is not available.), place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket, remove the upper and the lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing, remove the lower clamp screw with its flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar (a light tug may be necessary to release the index pins in the grip from their receptacle in the twist grip sensor seal cap), if present, pull the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit from the holes in the handlebar. FOR FLHR/C: remove the headlamp and the handlebar clamp shroud, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud on the fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and disconnect it, FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U remove the outer fairing, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud at the top of the right fairing support brace (inboard side) and disconnect it, FOR FLTR remove the outer fairing and bezel and disconnect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black). (Note that the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if the twist grip sensor is pulled too strongly and a damaged latch will prevent a positive pin and socket housing engagement and also since the connector is not serviceable, any damage requires replacement of the twist grip sensor jumper harness. THEN gently pull the twist grip sensor out of handlebar only as far as necessary to access the green twist grip sensor connector. FOR BEST RESULTS straighten out the conduit on the Molex connector end of the jumper harness and feed it through the slot at the front of the handlebar while pulling it and if the harness sticks inside handlebar while pulling on the twist grip sensor, pull the Molex connector end to retract the harness somewhat and then try again gently working the harness back and forth in this manner until the twist grip sensor connector is accessible. (Note again, that if the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if pried and that a damaged latch will prevent positive pin and socket housings engagement and that since the connector is not serviceable, any damage will require twist grip sensor jumper harness replacement). THEN gently insert a small flat blade screwdriver between the pin and socket housings and when the bottom edge of the latch is engaged separate the housings. (Do not pivot or rotate the screwdriver after insertion or damage to the pin housing will occur), remove the twist grip sensor.


INSTALLATION

(Take note that each twist grip sensor contains the terminals for installation of a heated throttle grip available through P&A and that while the seal cap protects the terminals from dirt and moisture it also serves as a retention device for installation of the throttle grip.)


Verify that seal cap is installed at end of the twist grip sensor. If the seal cap is not present, proceed by seeing if the seal cap is engaged onto the index pins inside the throttle grip and if so use a stiff piece of mechanics wire to lasso seal cap and pull it free of the index pins. If it is missing or damaged get a new one. THEN check the condition of the O-ring on the seal cap and because the O-ring is not sold separately a new seal cap will be required if the O-ring needs to be replaced. Install the seal cap engaging the legs in the slots at the end of the twist grip sensor. For best results try installing one leg first and depressing the second leg slightly with a small flat blade screwdriver push down on the seal cap until it is fully installed. THEN connect the green twist grip sensor connector and gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the twist grip sensor into the handlebar. THEN fit the index tabs on the twist grip sensor into the slots in the handlebar noting that one index tab and slot are smaller than the others to prevent improper assembly. THEN slide the throttle grip over the end of the handlebar rotate the grip to verify that the internal splines are engaged with the splines on the twist grip sensor. (Take note now that it is not necessary to hold the throttle grip onto the handlebar because the index pins in the grip engage the receptacle in the seal cap of the twist grip sensor preventing the grip from sliding off). THEN position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle grip so the ribs at the end of the throttle grip engage the slot in the lower switch housing. THEN position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and the lower switch housing, start the upper and lower switch housing screws but do not tighten them at this point, verify that the wire harness conduit runs in the depression at bottom of handlebar, put the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket, align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and start the lower screw with its flat washer, position it for rider comfort but do not pull the switch housings so far inboard as to cause the throttle grip to bind or drag on the handlebar and rotate the throttle grip to verify that it freely returns to the idle position. THEN starting with the top screw tighten the handlebar clamp screws to 72-80 in-lbs (8-9 Nm) always tightening the lower switch housing screw first, so that any gap between the upper and lower housings is at the front of the switch assembly. THEN tighten the lower and upper switch housing screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4-5 Nm), remove the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket and FOR FLHR/C connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install it on its T-stud on fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and install the handlebar clamp shroud and headlamp. FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U draw the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and conduit forward to the front of the upper fork bracket, and then route it under the right radio support bracket to the area behind the fairing support brace, connect the connector and install it on its T-stud at top of fairing support brace (inboard side) and install the outer fairing. FOR FLTR connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install the outer fairing and bezel. THEN, if present, install the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit into the holes in the handlebar install the main fuse, install the left side cover and install the left side saddlebag. (NOTE that whenever a new twist grip sensor (or ECM) is installed, you must put the engine run/stop switch in the RUN position and turn the ignition/light keyswitch to IGNITION and then back to OFF four times (without starting engine), allowing at least three seconds to elapse between ignition cycles. This is done because the ECM uses the first four ignition cycles to establish the optimum idle speed and so there may be initial performance problems such as high idle or hesitation when the throttle is opened if the procedure is not followed.) THEN turn the ignition/light key switch to IGNITION and apply the brake lever to test the correct operation of the brake lamp.

TWIST GRIP SENSOR JUMPER HARNESS

Removal

Remove the twist grip sensor. Get a length of strong flexible mechanics wire of sufficient strength to pull the conduit and connector through the handlebar without breaking AND of sufficient length that the free end will not be lost in the handlebar when pulled. THEN securely attach the mechanics wire to the jumper harness inboard of the twist grip sensor connector pin housing and for best results, install the mechanics wire onto the conduit to keep it from bunching up inside of the handlebar when it is pulled. THEN gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the conduit, the connector and the mechanics wire out through the slot at the front of the handlebar and if the harness sticks at all inside of the handlebar, pull back on the twist grip sensor connector end to retract the harness slightly and then try again to gently work the harness back and forth in this manner until it is free. THEN remove the mechanics wire from the jumper harness.


Mar 29, 2012 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

1 Answer

I HAVE A TUNTURI TREADMILL WITH A GAMMA 300 T.I.E. READOUT ON THE HANDLEBAR. THIS READOUT NOW SAYS THE BATTERY IS DYING OUT AND NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. KINDLY GIVE ME DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS AS TO HOW I CAN...


HI,
The is a screw behind readout Read out unit which we can see through a hole. Remove the the screw and detach out the back cover. Remove the battery wire for the socket and dismadle the battery. Buy a new battery with the same specification and install the new battery. Reattach the back cover and put the screw back.
OK

Sep 29, 2011 | Exercise & Fitness

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