Question about Husqvarna Garden
I replaced the primer lines new filter it did run but after replacing everything it will only run if i keep pressing the primer button then it run good until i stop pressing it. i tryed reversing the lines incase i got them wrong didnt help
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Take top cover off(3 screws). Take off the 2 nuts holding the carb on. Pull carb part way out to access the hoses. Remove the 3 old hoses after making a diagram of where they connect. Buy new hoses. Cut one end of the small hose on a bevel, pierce both sides 1/8 th inch from the end with a needle. Thread a thin wire through both holes. Thread both wire ends into the gas tank. Use a hemostat or long needle nose plyers to pull the wires and then hose down into the tank. Attach the weighted fuel filter. The other end of this smaller diameter fuel line goes on the upper nipple on the carb. Take the side cover off (4 screws) to access the primer bulb. Take 2 screws out to remove the bulb which has 2 nipples. The longer nipple connects to the larger diameter hose which goes to the fuel tank. The larger diameter tube has a coupler on the end which is inside the gas tank. It took me an hour to change all 3 hoses.
Posted on May 14, 2009
From the fuel tank to the carb, from the carb to the primer, from the primer back to the fuel tank. The bulb sucks fuel through the carb excess fuel is returned to the tank. HTH
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
The primer listed for your saw and sold by Poulan does not include hoses (do an Internet search for the part number below, there are photos). Hoses are sold separately and are 2 different sizes. You can cap the carburetor to primer connection at the carburetor and your saw will run as all chainsaws did before the addition of the air purge system.
An example of a Poulan "2375LE Gas saw Type 2" follows (may not be your saw):
The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for fuel line routing and it is sketchy at best; components are listed but may be on different illustrations.
See the "Engine Assembly" print; item 4; pn 530047213.
Small hose in the tank with a filter on the end (long enough to reach all corners as the saw is moved) the opposite end connects to the carburetor.
A second small hose connects between the second carburetor fitting and the suction side of the primer.
A large hose connects between the pressure side of the primer and fuel tank (return).
I suggest you replace ALL hoses. Do you change tires on at a time?
Plumb the system EXACTLY as the diagram shows. If it will not run you have the 2 connections on the carburetor reversed. It might make sense to leave them long enough to swap until everything is working.
A typical fuel system and a couple of suggestions can be found here:
If your saw is not a Type 2 or an LE (code for Wild Thing) you can find the correct IPL here:
The dash number of your serial number is the type.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Posted on Mar 15, 2010
SOURCE: Just replaced fuel lines and
Line from fuel filter goes directly into the inlet of the carburetor and the line from the snap in bulb that is marked "in" attaches to the other outlet connector on the carb. Last is the long side of the bulb goes to the return on the gas tank. The snap in bulb sucks the gas but not directly from the filter hose, it does this through the carb as if it were trying to not only **** in the fuel but also removing the air trapped in the carb. You'll notice that the bulb has a **** side and a discharge side, and the **** side goes directly to the carb outlet connector. I tried to make this a clear as possible, and I hope it helps.
Posted on Oct 17, 2010
Hi www donbened...
I will also include a fuel routing picture.
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later reference.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.
The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle chainsaw with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the chainsaw is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Sep 22, 2011
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