If the machine is not yet a year old you can call the back to basics company and they will send out a replacement. This has happened on a couple of mine. If its older than that you can try, but will more than likely have to buy a new one
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No use troubleshooting it any further. You know the AC outlet works, OK, right!
Sounds like a warranty claim to me.
Power supply in these units are all switch mode these days. Basicly a digital controlled (switch on/off at very high speed with feedback) power supply. So, even if you can find the internal fuse there is not much you can do except replace a module. Sorry
something had been gone short due to the power socket.let the socket be ok but sometimes due to heavy voltage this could possibly happen.just check if somme parts is burnt ,turned black or smelling foul oudor,or when you on the machine now it passes burning fumes from some where.
That may sound like a stupid question, but is it plugged in?
Have you tried to plug in the toaster on a different power outlet?
If there is a ground fault switch where the toaster is plugged in (that's those outlets which have 2 buttons on the front, one labeld "Test" the other usually labeled "Reset") unplug the toaster and push the "Reset" button and try the toaster again. To test, if the power outlet, were the toaster is usually plugged in, is working, try a hair dryer or any other device on that outlet.
Its most likely cheaper to replace the whole toaster than to replace the heating elements, for about 40 $ since that's the price of your toaster on some websites.
This problem indicates that there is no power to the toaster. Firstly check the power cord at the plug-open up the plug if necessary & make sure all wires are properly connected. Next check the cable where it enters the toaster. This is where there is most wear & tear on power cables. You may also have to open up the toaster to get to the power cable connections. If you have a continuity tester test the entire length of the cable for breaks by testing each core of the cable, namely earth, live and neutral. Lastly check all fuses, if any. If the cable or fuses aren't at fault, there is a bad connection somewhere within the toaster & will need to be checked by somebody with experience in home appliances.
FYI Oster Toaster Oven: about 18 months ago after careful consideration we purchased a counter top toaster oven for the RV from WalMart. I have a 20+ year old Oster Kitchen Center and found easy access to repair parts a couple of years ago, very pleased.
Last trip out in the RV the timer knob stripped out after what I would describe as a couple of months of light use. Google'd the model in search of a replacement knob only to find many others had "been there, done that". The model is obsolete and no service parts are available.
The Oster customer service rep seemed finished at this point and asked if there was anything else she could do for me. I asked what I, a long time Oster customer, should do with the useless oven. After repeating the question rephrased several different ways she put me on hold.
She returned several minutes later to inform me that as a "one time" courtesy Oster would replace our out of warranty oven with a current model. The replacement unit would have no warranty or support from Oster.
She supplied the model number and gave us an Order #. Looking up the model number and checking reviews I have very low expectations for the replacement. Most comment as to the poor quality and reliability of this current model.
A perfect example of a manufacturer who once produced a quality produce but now sells cheap imported disposable products.
jsullivan22 is right about the diode. I have this problem with my 24502, which is a dual version of this. There are 2 circuit boards in your unit one with the LED display on it and another one. The diode needing replacing is on the other board. it is in the center of the board, right next to a large (1/2W or 1W) 2K ohm resistor. The diode is probably part number 3ez24d5. Test it with the diode test on your DMM, if it is bad you will get 0V both directions (I think). Also if you measure it with the Ohm function it will probably measure less than an Ohm (check the zero on your DMM as many are not accurate down this low) You can probably replace it with a <a id="ctl00_ContentMain_CartGrid_grid_ctl02_ctl00_lnkManufacturerPartNumber" href="http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1N5934BGvirtualkey58410000virtualkey863-1N5934BG" style="font-weight: bold;">1N5934BG</a> or a <a id="ctl00_ContentMain_CartGrid_grid_ctl03_ctl00_lnkManufacturerPartNumber" href="http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1N5359BGvirtualkey58410000virtualkey863-1N5359BG" style="font-weight: bold;">1N5359BG</a> Mouser stocks both of these (currently). I haven\'t gotten my parts so I can\'t guarantee these will work, but I\'m pretty sure. I will try the latter first as I\'m hoping it\'s higher power rating will keep it from burning out again, although I will be buying several spares. <br><br>This is clearly a design issue with these toasters and one that could be easily corrected. Both circuit boards in my toaster are very toasty in the area of these diodes, although I\'m sure the fact that these boards are mounted very close to the heating elements doesn\'t help their longevity.<br><br>Hope this helps everyone.