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Pilot light works fine not to big or to small i can jump the top and bottom wires and the unit will fire off and burn correctly, myself i think the thermopile that conrols the wall swith is bad or the swith itself.

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  • 72 Answers

If you can jump it (bypassing the switch) and it operates correctly, then yes. It is either the switch, the wires leading to the switch, or a loose connection of the wires on the switch or valve.

Posted on Nov 30, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 306 Answers

SOURCE: Cozy wall furnace - unattached wire, won't turn on

Sounds like one of your limit switches lost it's wire. Look for a disc like device no more bigger then a 50 piece. You will see two wires going to that and if the wire broke take off the insulation and install new plastic sheath and re-attach. Let me know it that is helpful. ken

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

mrgrzz
  • 88 Answers

SOURCE: Pilot Light won't stay lit on wall furance

The low voltage wiring and the thermostat has noting to do with the pilot function of the wall furnace, check to see if when you have the pilot lit manually, while holding the button in does the flame impinge on the thermocouple and does the flame try to wrap around the thermocouple? if not the thermocouple and pilot flame need to be adjusted so that it impinges on the TC, if it does have a good flame impingment, then you probably have a bad TC from the factory, call them and have them send you a new one if still under warrenty.

Posted on Jan 20, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Williams wall furnace, top vent.

I've replaced a Williams wall gas heater non-electric. The thermostat is connected right and mounted on the wall. But, there's a thick black copper wire on the side of the furnace tagged thermostat. I don't know what to do with it? Where do you connect this wire? When it touches the top screw of the three screws running vertically(where the other wires are connected). The burner lights up and stays on, even if you play with the wall thermostat. Touching the other two screws doesn't do anything. Now, the manual talks about connecting it to the venting wires? Extra wires coming from the top or maybe somewhere else in the wall? I've left it connected to the first screw, ran the heater. But, it never turns off? Any suggestions? Thanks

Posted on Feb 23, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: I have a blue flame GLO WARM 20btu wall model # WMP20A

Look for and clean the flame sensor.

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

  • 82 Answers

SOURCE: pilot lights but no full burner. thermopile ok any

If thermopile generates 700mv...the stat is ok and no open limit then it is bad valve...touch the 2 thermopile leads direct t TH and PP on valve to bypass limit and stat...if it works direct...then a limit or stat is open

Posted on May 11, 2010

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1 Answer

Flash not firing, pilot light not on but display is fine


Hi John,
If your problem has not been fixed or a solution not found yet then you may consider this. Flash units are built with many tiny parts; thus, when a single component malfunction, it will render the whole unit useless. You mentioned the pilot light is not working - that indicates that power is not flowing through the unit.
Check the filament of the unit - if you notice some brownish stain on either end of the tube, it indicates the filament has burned out. Changing the type of batteries won't make any difference.
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I have a new Atwood G6A-7 water heater. The pilot lights fine but gas flow, when it turns on, is so strong it will blow the pilot out. Certain times, it sounds and looks like a mini fire ball going


Clean burner tube with proper brush, such as long spring type for bar-b-Q burner tube that are available at most hardware stores, and make sure you have new burner tube aligned properly (straight on) with brass orifice on gas control. Then be sure to adjust air shutter for nice blue flame, with little orange at tip. Do not give so much air that flame roars or jumps off the end of the burner tube. Too many people think more air, less fuel, but actually, when flame roaring and jumping off end of tube, the heat passes through faster and it takes longer to heat the water inside the tank. Like I said, only enough air to have quiet, steady blue flame. If your not giving it enough air, you'll see dark soot on trailer above water heater, which indicates burning too rich, need more air, or perhaps pilot is partially plugged. Pilot flame should also be blue, not yellow/orange. Small air intake hole on side of fitting just before pilot tube can get spider web, or debris in it as well. Use air to blow that out or a piece of wire like a paper-clip to clean inside that hole.

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30,000 btu wall mount reddy heater nat. gas. pilot lights and heater will run for about a min. then i hear a click in the main control and everything shuts down. Is this the double safety i read about...


Yes your pilot light may not be surrounding the thermocouple. Check and see it the pilot is burning blue and surrounds the thermocouple . These units are very sensitive if even a little breeze across the unit. You can clean the pilot with compressed air or maybe even a small wire brush. If this doesn't work you may have to change the thermocouple.

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1 Answer

Pilot light is on low but thermostat not working


Find where thermostat wires connect to heater. Jump out with small wire where wires connect. Unit should fire. If it does, bad thermostat or thermostat wires. If no, bad gas valve.

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1 Answer

The pilot stays on but the burner willnot operate


thormopile may be gone or your wires or switch have bad connection, try taking a small jumper wire and with pilot lit , jump out the valve on the top and bottom screws on the gas valve located inside bottom door. no danger of shock seing this is low voltage and cannot shock you , you can't ever fell it. if unit lights then check wires at switch and gas valve

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1 Answer

Nothing happens when we flip the switch, though the pilot light is on.


is the gas valve turned to ON position?try to jump the top and bottom screws on the gas valve, there are 3 in a row there inside the bottom door on valve. use a small wire to jump it no risk of shock its milivolts and you wont even feel it. if unit lights you have a swich problem or wire problem

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Goodman gds80703 turns on and off intermittendly 3 light blinks


There will be a diagnostic code that will blink on the control board. Look thru the clear window at the control board after the unit does not light up. On the reverse of the front panel, you will find a wiring diagram and in that area there will be a diagnostic code table. Sounds like a bad gas valve.

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2 Answers

Gas oven dosnt work


the pilot light is there for 2 purposes. number 1 to light the burner and number 2 to heat up the thermocouple, thermocouple is a wire that the flame from pilot suppose to surround by fire. if the pilot is to low it will not reach the thermocouple. you can take the gas line that supplies gas to the pilot and clean it with a safety pin or a small needle. you can test the thermocouple by heating it up with a blow torch on low heat, get it red hot and then turned on the oven. if the oven works clean the pilot, if the oven do not work, replace the thermocouple if separate from safety valve. if thermocouple is part of it replace the safety valve.

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24 Answers

Patio heater won't stay lit


I had this same problem - here's how I fixed it...

First: Never modify the safety features of your heater as has been suggested elsewhere on this forum. Modification of these features may allow the heater to work, but greatly compromises the safety of anyone near the heater.

The problem with the heater shutting off is most likely due to not enough gas flowing through the pilot orifice (this orifice is almost as small as the diameter of a human hair). When this happens, the pilot flame does not burn vigorously enough to activate the thermocouple. Hence, the thermocouple shuts off the gas and the burner goes out - usually you'll hear one "click" when this happens.

This is a maintence thing - meaning you may have to do this as a seasonal activity.

Here we go....
(1) Shut off the gas at the tank - or remove the tank entirely.
(2) Remove the screws that hold the burner shield and top shroud from the unit - set it aside.
(3) Remove the control knob - it just pulls straight off.
(4) Remove the panel immediately behind the knob you just took off. This will expose the gas valve assembly.
(5) Remove the cover that encloses the bottom of the pilot light/igniter (assembly). This will expose the bottom of the pilot assembly.
(6) Remove the screw holding the pilot assembly - there is a small hex nut on top, but under the burner that you'll have to hold to prevent it from turning. This will free the pilot assembly allowing you to gently pull it out of the pilot assembly housing. DON"T pull hard or you may break the gas line or thermocouple.
(7) Remove the hex nut that attaches the gas line to the pilot assembly and gently pull the gas line out. At this point, to ensure you have gas flowing through the pilot gas line, you may want to re-attach the gas tank, turn it on, gently move the gas line as far away from the spark ignitor as possible, temporarily replace the control knob, and turn the knob to the "Pilot" position & push it in. DO NOT DO THIS ANYWHERE NEAR AN OPEN FLAME OR A LIGHTED CIGARETTE! You should be able to hear a hissing sound as the gas flows. If you do not hear it, the problem may be with your gas valve, and if that's the case, I'm sorry this procedure likely won't solve the problem.
(8) Remove the pilot light tube (orifice) from the mounting bracket. There's a hex nut on the back side that holds it in. Be careful not to damage the hex nut or the threads. You'll need a pair of pliers (to hold the bracket) and an adjustable wrench for the hex nut. Make note of the orientation of the pilot burner diverter so you can put it back together the same way it came apart.
(9) Using a blast of compressed air, blow air through the pilot orifice. You should be able to see just a very (and I mean very) small pin-point of light through the pilot burner. If not, use a single strand of very fine wire - like one strand from a 18 gauge braided electrical wire - and run it through the pilot orifice. Carbon build-up can clog this orifice - which can prevent the pilot from burning vigorously enough to heat up the thermocouple. Cleaning it out periodically will likely solve the problem.

Put everything back together in reverse order as noted above - making sure your gas fittings are tight and don't leak. Once it's all back together, light the pilot flame as normal and once the thermocouple heats up, the heater should work like a charm.

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1 Answer

GE XL44 Range


The pilot light is lit to light the main burner. First off, is your pilot light lit or is the igniter lit. There are two thermal sensor in the oven. One is above your pilot light and will not let the pilot light stay lit unless there is a flame. Secondly, you have a thermal sensor in your oven wired all the way to the switch to turn the oven on. If it thinks that it is at temp, then it will never turn on. This sensor may become bad or the case of my oven break. But if these are good, you many have a clogged burning unit underneath. Cleaning according to the owners manual may correct that. Check your owners manual to see what is user serviceable. Gas is nothing to play with.

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