How and where do the monitor wires connect to the motherboard

Generally a power supply failure. The monitor has either it's own power supply or is fed by a different circuit from the computer.

Test all power and data leads that attach to your hard drive IDE,SATA

the leads from your (motherboard to your hard drive) make sure they have secure dust free connections and are not faulty or just replace them they might be faulty

if its a 40 pin flat ribbon type it will be the first to fail

make sure all leads that are attached to your drives dvd\cd 3 1/2 inch floppy have secure connections and are not faulty

even something as small as a faulty electrical fan and its lead can cause you problems

computers need all power and data to continue through every working device and to have an end so any faulty leads will end up with a computer error

make sure your graphics card is securely seated with no dust built up or in the socket

if you remove your graphics check the socket to make sure its dust free

restart your computer then reinstall it this should activate found new hardware wizard

hope this helps

LOVE your user name!

I'll try to guide you the best that I can.
Sorry, first connector after Power Supply does me no good.

Let's look at a basic schematic of the motherboard for a Dell Inspiron 530s Desktop PC,

Dell Support > Inspiron 530s Desktop PC > Dell Inspiron 530s Series Owners Manual,

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/insp530s/en/OM/HTML/index.htm

I would like you to click on - Removing and Installing Parts
In the left column click on - System Board Components
{System Board = Motherboard }

This is a basic view of the motherboard with No hardware components installed.
It is also how the motherboard sits in your computer.

This is a pictorial view of the motherboard,

http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Motherboard-Inspiron-Systems-Compatible/dp/B003CO0WQS

Now, compare the Dell Support motherboard illustration, to the pictorial.
Looking to the far right in the illustration, the first connector is marked with the number 8.

On the pictorial it is the rectangular Black connector at the bottom/middle. (Next to the rectangular White connector)

This connector is for a Floppy Drive.
Is this the connector in question?

Is it the white rectangular connector next to it?
This connector is for the main power cable coming from the Power Supply.
In the illustration is is marked by the number 7.

This is a basic example, of the power cable coming from the Power Supply (power box), that connects to the white connector,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

{Note* Color of the main power cable's connector does not matter. It can be any color }

IF this connector on the motherboard is burnt, you may wish to stop.
Electricity has more than likely fried the entire motherboard. May also include the Processor, Ram Memory, Harddrive, and a graphics card, if installed.

I know. I'm a 'ray of sunshine'.

How could this connector be burnt?
Four ways I know of;

1) Lightning storm, or power outage. Also could have happened if the power utility company was doing some changes in the power lines, utility pole transformer, etc.
(No. The utility company cannot be held responsible. I don't agree with that)

2) Power cable was not plugged in tightly. Lock on side was not locked into place.
Air gap created in-between the connecting contacts in the power cable connector, and the motherboard connector, created resistance.

Resistance creates heat. Burnt connector/s will result, and perhaps worse.
{Could also create a small power surge }

3) At one time Dell was a Proprietary computer manufacturer.
This means Dell wanted THEIR replacement parts used on THEIR computers.

If an aftermarket computer component is installed, Dell cannot warranty their computer.
Using THEIR parts in THEIR computers, Dell could.
However Dell computer users did not wish to pay the price of the Dell replacement parts.
The aftermarket parts were cheaper, of good quality, and readily available.

If we use a Power Supply for an example;

Dell had the motherboard manufacturer switch the socket holes around, in the Motherboard connector, for the main power cable.

They also had the Power Supply manufacturer switch the pins around, in the 24-pin ATX main power cable's connector, to match.

The aftermarket power supply manufacturer built the power cables, and connectors, to follow industry standards. Dell did not.

This means if you plug an aftermarket power supply's main power cable, into a Dell motherboard that was built proprietary, the motherboard usually fried. The only sign may be a burnt connector on the motherboard.

Could also have fried the Processor, Ram Memory, Harddrive, optical drive/s, and a graphics card, IF installed.

[ Looking at the Playtool link again, look at the photo to the far right.
See the different colored wires?
The color coding indicates what the wire carries as far as Voltage, or if it is a Ground wire.

1) Orange insulated wires = 3.3 Volts
2) Red wires = 5 Volts
3) Yellow wires = 12 Volts
(All are DC. In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC)

4) The Black wires are Ground wires

(The Green wire is the Soft Power On wire. Abbreviated as PS_ON)

The Orange, Red, and Yellow wires are power wires.
The Black wires are Ground wires.
Guess what happens if a 12 Volt wire is connected to a Ground?
(Instead of going to a 12 Volt connection)

Things start frying.

{To state connections in the main power cable connector, and it's respective connector on the motherboard, correctly;

Looking at the middle photo you see the connection end of the main power cable.
Plastic connector with individual plastic rectangular shapes, that have metal 'tubes' inside each of them.

The motherboard connector has socket holes to match the individual plastic rectangular shapes.
Inside the socket holes are metal pins. Contact pins.
The contact pins go inside the metal 'tubes'.

The metal 'tube' is a Molex Socket Terminal,

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/36664-0002/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvz8LftK4jerhl0r50z%252bUNRzFCdHbJqUTU%3d


4) IF the Power Supply, ( looking at it from the Back of the computer), has a rocker switch, or slide switch, to set the incoming AC power to 110 Volts, or 220 Volts;
And the power supply switch was set to 110, and plugged into 220 Volts,
the motherboard connector would fry.

Plus the Power Supply. May also of course include Processor, Ram Memory, Motherboard, Harddrive, optical drive/s, and graphics card IF installed.


Replace the connector? No
Could be;
A) Replace the Power Supply. Still no?
B) Replace the Motherboard. Still no?
C) Replace the Ram Memory. Still no?
D) Replace the Processor. Computer operates but no graphics?
E) Graphics card installed? Replace graphics card

Unless you can test each individual component, and the cost is not much less, or equal to a new computer, the obvious choice would be to purchase a new, or good used computer.

None to my knowledge tonytegroce.

If there were one it would be at the back of the Power Supply in a fuse holder, or inside the Power Supply's case.

Power supply should be rated at a maximum wattage of 200 Watts, and is probably made by Bestec, HiPro, or Delta.
(Actual maximum wattage is more like 60 to 70 percent of what is stated. 120 Watts to 140 Watts)

{ NOTE*
I Do Not recommend opening the Power Supply. Inside the Power Supply are Electrolytic Capacitors.

Electrolytic Capacitors are designed to slowly build up a charge, then release it all at once.
Rough comparison is a large swimming pool filled up by a garden hose, then one wall is taken down all at once.

Electrolytic Capacitors can hold a charge for Weeks, Months, sometimes over a year, when power to them has been removed. (In this case; Power Supply unplugged from power)

IF, your fingers touch the two terminals on the bottom of a capacitor, the charge can be released to YOU.
IF, your fingers complete a circuit, that one or more capacitors are in, the charge can be released to YOU }


If the computer does not come on when you push the Power On button:

1) Check to see if the surge protector has power. Is the Power On LED light lit?

Next check to see if THAT receptacle in the surge protector, has power. The receptacle in the surge protector that the computer is plugged into.
You can use a table lamp, for one, to test.

I have had 4 surge protectors now, that just THE receptacle the computer was plugged into, had NO power.
Everything else had power. Monitors, router, sound system, printer, etc.


Sure that the computer is receiving power?
2) Perform the test to see if the Power On switch is bad, or the Power Supply.

{The Power On switch is an ATX power on switch. It is located inside the plastic Power On button assembly.

Example of an ATX Power On switch,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html }

The test is to bypass the Power On switch. It does not involve the Power On switch, or the pins on the motherboard that it connects to.

A jumper wire is used on the 20-pin ATX main power cable connector.
This is an example of a 20-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

This is an illustration, and photo of the FIC AM35 motherboard, used in the HP Pavilion 523n Desktop PC,

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph07899&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&lc=en&product=90387

Scroll the page down. Illustration is first, photo second.

Motherboard sitting as it is in your computer; Processor to the top, and Ram Memory slots to the right, the 20-pin ATX main power cable connector on the motherboard, is to the Right of the ram memory slots.

In the illustration it is labeled - ATX Power Connector

In the photo it is to the right of the long Black ram memory slots, and is a whitish/yellow connector with two columns of 10 squarish socket holes.

Referring back to the example of the 20-pin ATX main power connector;

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

Observe the photo all the way to the right. The ATX main power cable is plugged into the motherboard. This is the way it should be for the test.

A jumper wire is used to temporarily connect the Green wire, to ANY Black wire.
The Green wire you see is a Soft Power On wire. Abbreviated as PS_ON.

ALL of the Black wires you see are Ground wires.

The preferred jumper wire is a paper clip. It's small size, and stiffness is ideal for this application.
The paper clip is straightened out, then bent into a U-shape.

The middle of the U-shape is wrapped a few times with black plastic electrical tape.
This area is for your fingers to hold onto.

The 'legs' of the U-shape is inserted down into the socket holes of the 20-pin ATX main power cable connector.

The paper clip's 'legs' are inserted down into the socket holes, in the Back of the ATX main power cable connector.
The Back is where the wires go in.

The legs MUST be inserted down into the socket hole pretty far.
At the bottom of every wire going into the connector, is a metal terminal. (Female)
The legs of the paper clip MUST touch those metal terminals.

The legs go down in the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the existing wire in the socket hole.
One leg goes down in a socket hole with the GREEN wire, the other leg goes down in ANY socket hole with a Black wire.

The contact period made is No longer than 2 seconds.
(The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch)

IF the computer (Power Supply) comes on, the Power On switch is bad.

IF the computer (Power Supply) Does Not come on, the problem is a bad Power Supply.

Shock Warning:

The Soft Power On circuit uses 5 Volts DC.
Two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.

There may, or may not be a spark when you touch the jumper wire.
If it makes you feel more comfortable, you may wish to wear a glove on the hand that uses the jumper wire. (Paper clip)

{Note*
One single wrap of black plastic electrical tape will insulate you from 600 Volts DC }

Post back in a Comment as to your findings after the test.

Regards,
joecoolvette

{Added note*
The harmful voltages are inside the Power Supply's case.
The Power Supply converts AC voltage into DC voltage.

(USA - 120 Volts AC
Europe - 220 Volts AC
Australia - 220 Volts AC
Japan - 100 Volts AC)

The DC voltages that the computer uses is.
A) 3.3 Volts DC
B) 5 Volts DC
C) 12 Volts DC

Inside the computer are very low DC voltages }

what device? is *********** board won't start? Or a hardware doesn't start like ram or your printer
If the problem is your motherboard check all your hardwares and connectors like this:

1. If the motherboard won't start if you click the power button check the LED(the small light bulb on your motherboard) if its glowing. If not, check the connector of your power supply or check the power supply if its working by looking its fan if revolving.
2. If you push the button and there's a sign of power but didn't start up that will appear on your screen check the connection of your monitor screen to your desktop computer. If it's connected, remove your RAM from the motherboard and insert it to another memory slot to check if it's broken.
3. Last, if you push the power button and here 1 short beep but the boot screen didn't appeared from your screen check your graphic card. Remove the graphic card and re-insert it again to its graphic card slot and plug in your monitor connector to it. If it still remain that way, buy a new graphic card.
   

1) Check The receptacle in the surge protector, that the computer is plugged into.
I have had surge protectors where just THAT receptacle was bad.

"Hmmm, surge protector power on light is lit. Monitor, printer, and router, plugged into the surge protector, has power."

Upon plugging in a table lamp into THAT receptacle on the surge protector, I found THAT receptacle to be bad.
($30+ surge protectors, too!)

2) If the surge protector proves to be good, I would suggest performing a test that checks whether the Power On switch is bad, or the Power Supply, in the computer.

To expound:
Behind that plastic Power On button, is a Power On switch.
I have found this generic Power On switch fits many computers.

Just an example, to show you what a typical Power on switch looks like,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

The test involves using a jumper wire to bypass the Power on switch, to see if the problem is the Power On switch, or the Power Supply.

Using the jumper wire turns the computer on, (Power Supply on), the problem is the Power On switch.

Using the jumper wire does Not turn the computer on, (Power Supply), the problem is the Power Supply.

This is HP Support, and the main page for the HP Pavilion a705W desktop computer,

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/product?product=435558&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&submit.y=4&submit.x=5&lang=en&cc=us

Go to the right side, and click on Product Information.

Now click on Product specifications, and then on -
Motherboard Specifications, MS-6577 (Giovani, Giovani2)
(Close the web survey. It's something that can be done without, IMHO)

Scroll to the bottom of the page, and view the motherboard photo, and the motherboard illustration.

Refer to the motherboard illustration
Look to the top right for - CONN1

Now refer to the motherboard photo, and match up CONN1.
It is a white connector on the motherboard. Has 2 rows of 10 socket holes.

The correct name for this connector on the motherboard, is a 20-pin ATX main power cable connector.

This is more information on a 20-pin ATX main power cable, it's respective connector, and the matching connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

With the side panel removed on your computer, (Computer Unplugged from power), you will see your 20-pin ATX main power cable, plugged into this connector on the motherboard.

Will resemble the photo to the far right.

[ NOTE*
Before reaching into a computer, have the power to the computer Unplugged.
Also follow Anti-Static Precautions.

Anti-Static Precautions:
Your body carries Static electricity.
Static will fry out (Short Circuit) the delicate hardware components inside a computer.

Relieve your body of Static BEFORE handling any computer parts, (hardware components), that you are going to install, and BEFORE you reach inside your computer.

Computer unplugged from power, computer case open, work on a table. TOUCH the metal frame of the open computer case, to relieve your body of Static electricity.

Should you get up, and walk away in the middle of working on your computer, upon your return be SURE to Touch the metal frame again.

Best method is to use an ESD wrist strap, (About $6), and connect the alligator clip to the metal frame.
Electro Static Discharge ]

Observing the photo to the far right, the procedure is to use a jumper wire from the Green wire, to ANY Black wire.

The main power cable is plugged in as shown.
One end of the jumper wire goes down into the socket hole with the Green wire, and the other end goes down into a socket hole with ANY Black wire.

[ The Green wire is the Soft Power on wire. Abbreviated as PS-ON.
ANY Black wire is a Ground wire.
You are making a circuit with the jumper wire, from the Soft Power on wire, to ANY Ground wire ]

The wires that go down into the main power cable's connector, have plastic insulation on them.
At the end of Each wire is a metal terminal connector.

(They resemble this metal terminal connector,

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/28-9410&green=13639529671&utm_campaign=MyBuys&utm_medium=Recommendation&utm_source=prod&utm_term=28-9410

The metal terminal pin is pretty far down in the socket hole.

For this reason, you have to ensure that the jumper wire is going down in the socket hole, (Right next to the wire that is already in the socket hole), and goes down in far enough to touch that metal terminal connector.

I usually state using an insulated wire, but am now going to concede, and advise what many state to use for a jumper wire.

A paper clip.

The paper clip is straightened out, then bent into a U shape.
The center of the U is wrapped with electrical tape.

The taped part of the paper clip 'jumper wire', is then held with your fingers, and thumb.

You may also wish to don a glove, on the hand that holds the jumper wire.
There will be a spark.

The voltage is 5 Volts DC.
Two D cell batteries used in a flashlight produce 3 Volts DC.

I would lay the computer on it's side, opening up.
Easier to access the 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector.
(Won't hurt a computer to lay on it's side, and be powered up)

Computer plugged into power, insert one end of the U shaped paper clip into the socket hole with the Green wire.
Now bend the paper clip if necessary, and insert the other end into ANY socket hole with a Black wire.

Make SURE the paper clip is touching the metal terminal connectors, down in the two socket holes.

Computer comes on?
Bad Power on switch.

Computer does Not come on?
Bad Power Supply.

The Power Supply used is just an ordinary ATX style of Power Supply.
Common in over 80 percent of PC's out there, and readily available.

The Wattage is 300 Watts.

The shape, and size of the Power Supply's case is approximately,
A) 6 inches Long
B) 6 inches Wide
C) 3-1/2 inches Tall

Make sure it has a 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

(Also abbreviated as P4 ATX 12VX1)

Newer Power Supply's have an ATX main power cable, that it's connector can be used as a 20-pin ATX main power cable, (Which you need), or a 24-pin ATX main power cable.

This is one example of a Power Supply that will work in your computer, and is reliable, while economical,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1389575&CatId=1078

allen_dav561, Unit's "switch-mode-power-supply" may need to be refurbished. If monitor is 4-6 years old you will need to decide to repair or just trade for new. Do some reading in my fixya profile for more options you may want to investigate. Reading is free. 12fixlouie

A.Bad Power On switch. (Behind the Power On button)

B.Bad power supply

C.Power supply cables have come loose inside the computer.
1.Power supply to motherboard. (20-pin connector on motherboard)
This connector has two pins in it for Soft Power On. The power supply does not connect directly to the Power On switch. The power supply connects to the motherboard, and turns on via Soft Power On.

ADVISEMENT!!
ALWAYS have the computer unplugged from power before reaching inside!

ALWAYS work on a table. DO NOT work on a bed, or directly on a carpet floor. These are high areas for Static electricity! Static electricity will silently burn out computer hardware components. You may not see it or feel it.
Touch the metal frame of the computer case, to relieve your body of static, BEFORE you reach inside.

Take a picture of the inside of your computer and put it up on the website with the wire connectors that need to be connected. The connecting wires should be in four groups. 1. The power supply connectors. These connectors will supply power to to all the power using components not supplied power by the motherboard itself. 2 The connections to the other components in your system like the dvd/cd player and the harddrive and floppy drive.3. The motherboard connections for the case. The power switch connector andreset switchconnector. The power led and theharddrive activity light.The USB connector and the audio connector.The fan connections like the cpu fan and other fan only connectors found on the motherboard.The external fans ( Fans that need to be connected to the power supply).Most of these connections are labeled on the motherboard. The case connectors also should be labeled for the correct connection. The best way to find the answers to this hook-up, may be to call HP pavilion with your computer make and model number,motherboard model number including revisions number. Computer made by big manufacturers tend to have may revisions and the only way to make sure your are getting a correct hook-up to the motherboard is call them for assistance.Especially if the motherboard and case labels are not present or so small that they cannot be read.Hope this helps you with your problem.

chk if the powersupply fan is spinning if not then chk the wall unit or chk the power cable you can try swaping it with the monitor and if possible open the tower and chk if there is any light on the motherboard and try to reset the atx connector on the motherboard (it is the power supply connector for the mother board it is a big connector with colourfull wires in it)

or

upplug the power cable from the tower and hold the power button for 10 sec and then connect the power cable back and try to turn on the system

Thnx
samson ved