Question about Infinity HTS-20 System
Infinity HTS-20SUB System ver.B - revF board. Sub makes whining buzz for a brief second when plugged in. If i push on the speaker while it is plugged in I hear the buzz. The sub is not pushing any sound out. Sounds like something on the board is bad? The fuse looks fine. I don't see or smell anything that might be bad. Any suggestions?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Fixed the problem...I just purchased another one online (from a store that has a good return problem) and will return the one that doesn't work! Cheers! :)
Posted on Jun 27, 2008
I had the same problem. When I opened it up, the fuse was blown, and it was a pain to find the fuse it needs (3 Amp, 250 V slow-blow fuse, 5x20 mm). Also, the 2 large electrolytics (big purple things near the amp) and one small capacitor were all blown. For 4 fuses, bought seperately from, and the 2 electrolytics and 1 capacitor, it cost about $20, plus almost 20 more in shipping, which still isnt bad considering the original price of the sub. However, the tricky part is that you have to know how to use a soldering iron to take out the old components and put in the new ones.
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
Looks like a broken copper braid that links the speaker terminal to the cone (from there on it goes to the coil which is underneath the cone).
Check the speaker connection terminals (near the magnet), you will notice that each terminal has a copper braid wire going from that terminal to the speaker cone.
Inspect both braid wires carefully at each end (near the speaker terminal and near the speaker cone), there will either be some damage to the braid at one or more of these four locations or the braid could be actually broken at any of these spots.
The braid can actually be resoldered at the point where it's damaged or broken - this task will require good soldering skills, mainly because this kind of braid wires are difficuld to solder (they are a bit difficult to clean because of their structure and solder won't attach itself well to oxydized copper), but also because some speaker cones are made of plastic which may melt if you overheat it with a soldering iron.
Besides that, when resoldering is being done, only a very short portion of the braid should be wetted with solder because the solder point will become rigid when the solder cools down, and the braid needs to remain very flexible when the speaker operates (if it's too rigid or too short, damage to the speaker cone could occur or the braid could get broken again when the speaker will be playing at a loud volume).
Hope you can have it repaired, it can be done at home, but there are also speaker repair shops where you can get it done (i'm not sure about the prices though).
Anyway, the alternative is to replace the speaker itself.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
In general higher speaker impedance is safer than lower impedance for the amp. Don't expect anything impressive re: audio output from a passive (unpowered) sub if your HTS says it pushes only 25 watts. Without frequency bandwidth and distortion noted the spec is virtually useless as a comparison.
The BU-1 is a powered sub that accepts either RCA Line Level or HIGH LEVEL amplifier power. If you use the latter, impedance is a non-issue because the input feeds the BU-1's internal amp, not the speaker directly. You should be okay.
Perhaps if we knew some specifics about the HTS we could do more than guess.
Posted on Jul 21, 2010
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