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Need to buy and install correct FLUE PIPE(s) and ROOF CAPS for a Nordyne Intertherm gas furnace for a mobile home

Type of Flue pipe for Nordyne Intertherm mobile home gas furnace The furnace is being installed into a doube-wide mobile home. It's missing the flue pipe(s) and roof cap(s) and I don't know what kind I need to buy. I measured the rims coming out of the furnace: the outer flue piping diamerter is 8" and the inner piping diameter is 5". Does the pipe have to be insulated, or is it just two pipes with one inside the other, with roof caps? What about the part going through the actual roof? I can't find anything about flue piping for mobile home gas furnaces on the web. There are no Intertherm Nordyne dealers in Alaska, and the company's website only has a "dealer locator" which is worthless, or it says a customer can WRITE them and gives their snail mail address -- unbelievable. I can't afford a "heating company installation" with all their extra fees and mark-ups. I don't know where to buy it either. If I could buy the flue piping and roof caps, I could get someone in the mobile home park to install it.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Buffalo12980
  • 625 Answers

SOURCE: Dayton Fuel Trimmer Shop Heater

flue diameter is 4 inch
Propane Unit Heater, BtuH Input 30000, Full Load Current 2.1 Amps, Gas Inlet 1/2 Inch, Flue Diameter 4 R,V, Motor Power Rating 1/30 HP, Free Air Flow 700 CFM, Height 27 1/2 Inches, Depth 27 5/8 Inches, Width 14 Inches, OC Mounting 8 5/8 Inches, 115 Volts, Energy Saving

Posted on Nov 21, 2007

Pnutgllry
  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: moved Laser 73 to differant building, need template for flue pipe

davcr- try using a hairdryer on the pipe. and next time put an anti-seize oil on the pipes where they go together. ;)

Posted on Nov 17, 2008

  • 233 Answers

SOURCE: Colman mobile home gas furnace to use in my garage/shop

generally speaking a sealed combustion system is inherently more safe than a system that draws it's combustion air from it's ambient location. however, it cannot be considered 100% safe in a potentially hazardous location. The actual system that would be used in a "code compliant" installation would be a 100% outside air unit.
That being said, you can install this in a garage, the vent that you are referring to (if it is a standard mobile home system) is generally directly above the unit and usually no longer than about five feet. It also requires a listed and labeled termination "cap" If you install 90 degree angles or extend the vent too far you will have issues with condensation in the piping that will cause the pipe/ heat exchanger to fail prematurely.
If the system is a 90+ efficeint unit then the PVC venting is generally allowed to be about 30 feet long, with a 1/4 inch per foot pitch back to the unit for condensation, also the general mfg. instructions allow either 2- 90 degree or 4 45 degree fittings in the line. hope this helps

Posted on Nov 07, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank You"

rockmeister
  • 2047 Answers

SOURCE: I had my original "low"

Hello there, Usually the flue size is determined by the BTU which is generated by the unit. Considering that your unit produces between 35,000 and 40,000 BTU per hour the 2" Flue is okay. Although if you can replace it a 3" will do the job better but the 2" will not cause any harm if left in place as the quantity of BTU generated is equivalent to 2" of flue.
Hope this solution has been helpful?
Thank you for visiting FixYa.

Posted on Aug 13, 2011

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Have a older achiever 90 plus and the furnace won't ignite whats the solution thank you


Check make sure gas is going to unit if yes check to see if smaller motor comes on this is for flue pipe check if egnighhter is sparking .if you have gas and fan runs must likely is egnighter.also make sure flue pipe isnot clogged this will also shut you down

Feb 17, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My high efficiency furnace has water (possibly condensation) running down the air intake pvc pipe into the furnace and all over the burner, gas valve, and wiring.


First, check the drainline from the furnace. You have a 90% gas fired furnace. Where 80% furnace has 1 heat exchanger, yours has 2 heat exchangers. And the second heat exchanger will cool the exhaust enough, that it ends up below the dew point, and your furnace outlet/exhaust will condensate. This drain is probably stopped up. Now, I've installed and service many of these systems and I've only seen the piping at the roof you described once. And that was when the roofers replaced the roof, damaged the furnace flue pipe, and tried to repair it themselves. Normally, and this may not apply to yours, we tie in the exhaust/supply lines about 2-3 ft. above the furnace. Then 1 pipe goes through the roof. Thus 1 pipe is a kit that has an inner liner & outer pipe(2 pipes in 1). Now I'm not sure if this is a problem or normal for your system, but it may be worth looking into. You should be able to find it in the installation manual, or call a local parts house that sells your brand, or as your tech. And if it's just your drain, forget all about the piping I mentioned. Hope this helps!

Mar 08, 2017 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Type of Flue pipe for Nordyne Intertherm mobile home gas furnace


The flue is just 1 pipe inside another, no insulation. But has lil support brackets holding the inner pipe in its place, centered to the outer pipe. I googled Nordyne Flue Pipe, and it is available online. And HELLO from the heart of Texas! Hope this helps!

Mar 12, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Just replaced pressure switch on intertherm m1mb gas furnace but still codes "pressure switch open"


CHECK FLUE FOR OBSTUCTIONS AS WELL AS COMBUSTION AIR INTAKE FIRST. THEN CHECK TO SEE IF THE FURNACE DRAIN IS OPEN AND NOT CLOGGED [ONLY IF YOUR FURNACE IS A CONDENSATING HIGH EFFICIENCY MODEL, typically the flue pipe will be 2 or 3 inch pvc pipe] over the years more often than not, it is an obstruction or poor drainage which will not prove the pressure switch to allow the burner to ignite. in rare cases the furnace control board could be bad as well.TRY DISCONNECTING FLUE AND COMB. AIR AT FURNACE JUST TO SEE IF FURNACE WILL IGNITE. HOPE THIS HELPS!!!!!!

Oct 20, 2011 | Intertherm P3RA-048K Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I have a 30 gallen Rheem gas water heater. The water is coming out of the exhaust. Is there a way to fix this or do I just need to buy a new one?


I am uncertain from your description exactly where water is coming from.

I want you to protect yourself first.

Read following page to help identify source of leak:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html

If your vent pipe is spitting water back on top of water heater, then the problem is not the water heater. Problem could be poor venting.
Water heater is putting odorless CO gas into home, and will kill you. Give you headaches, make you feel sick until you go outside and get fresh air.

Call a plumber please if flue pipe is problem.

Here's how to check if flue pipe is drafting properly:
When water heater burner is off, light a match, blow match flame out, put match under vent hood on top of water heater.
Does smoke from match immediately draft up flue pipe?
If smoke does not draft up strong, then water heater is putting CO gas into home.

The vent on all gas appliances has to be working properly.
Look for missing top of vent pipe located on roof.
If cover is missing, a bird might built a nest on end of pipe, or leaves have fallen into pipe which is a fire hazard.

If flue pipe goes into chimney, you should call a plumber.
A plumber is cheaper than potential health problems with improper flue.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Feb 13, 2011 | Rheem 30 Gallon FVR NATGAS Water Heater...

1 Answer

When the hot water heater is running water leaks from the chimney. the pipe from the heater to the chimney is dry upon removal. about 3 gals. of water leaks from the chimney with two showers.


If I understand correctly, your Bock gas water heater vent is causing water to leak down into chimney.
This is a very serious concern

Water leaking from water heater flue indicates improper venting.
The hot air gasses from water heater combustion contain water vapor, but the gas should vent out of house before condensate forms on pipes.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-at-bottom-of-water-heater.html#flue

The problem might be caused by a power vented furnace that pushes vent air from furnace down into flue pipe for water heater. As a result, the water heater doesn't vent properly.
There could also be a clog.
Light a match under water heater draft hood and see if smoke from match travels instantly upward.

There are two major concerns.
1) If vent is not working, it means that odorless CO gas is entering home instead of venting outdoors.
CO carbon monoxide is deadly poison.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CO_poisoning
This is a very serious concern
You can buy CO detector after vent is repaired.

2) Water condensate will eventually rust away vent pipes because of acidic content of the combustion vapor. It can be expensive to replace pipes, and pipes with holes pose risk of CO poisoning.

My suggestion is call a qualified plumber ASAP and explain what you observe.
Plumber will want to inspect the vent pipes, and may want to extend water heater vent pipe up further inside chimney so furnace is not pushing air back into water heater vent.
Plumber may also find blockage somewhere in the vent stack or chimney.
Also post on a professional water heater forum like the Tank to double check anything the plumber says to you. These are the pros.
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

Dec 25, 2010 | RTO Bock Water Heaters 32E 32 gal 104,000...

2 Answers

My reliance sta-kleen 502 is leaking. The water is dripping on top of the pilot light, extinguishing the flame . Please advise me with step by step instructions to diagnose and attempt fix this myself....


If you have a leaking water heater there is a serious problem.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-leaking.html
Page shows how to limp along on a leaking water heater if your water heater needs replacement.

One of three things is causing the water:
1) Loose water connection on top of tank that is dripping down inside tank >> check pipes on top of tank.

2) The vent is clogged or not working correctly causing condensation inside flue pipe.
Condensation water is dripping back down inside tank.
Problem means possible CO poisoning if gas is not venting.
Look at vent pipe to see if joints are corroded.
Use long fireplace match > light match and put into draft hood at top of tank and see if smoke goes up.
Put hand at draft hood opening when water heater turns on to see if vent gas enters home.
Do same test when furnace turns on to see if furnace vent is pushing back into water heater.
Does water heater vent inside same pipe as furnace? You may need to set up separate vent for water heater if furnace gasses are pushing back into home.
Check furnace vent for obstructions.
Look at vent stack top of home to see if hood is in place.
Check if bird nest is built inside warm vent pipe.
Improper flue is top priority for getting fixed so vent gasses properly escape home.
You may have to call a plumber.
Professional plumbing forum:
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

3) Your water heater is rusted out.
A rusted tank has to be replaced.
It cannot be repaired.
However, before replacing tank, you do not want a tank failure where tank ruptures and water runs inside home until water is shut off.
This will cause major damage.
Protect yourself first.
Turn off water valve above tank.
Move gas knob to 'pilot' so burner is not heating water.
Open tub spout on hot side to relieve pressure on tank so it will not rupture.

Now you're protected.
Link above shows how to limp along on failed tank until you can replace heater.

You need a new gas water heater from Lowes or Home Depot
Look at label on side of you tank for gallons and btu's of your water heater.
Measure height to flue pipe so you get same height water heater, so pipes don't have to be changed.
You need a pipe wrench and teflon tape which will be wrapped on each pipe thread when pipes are reassembled.

Step1) Drain water heater using valve at bottom of tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

2) Turn off gas valve going into heater.
When gas valve is perpendicular to gas line, then gas is off.
Dissemble gas line to water heater.

3) Disconnect flue pipe and support flue pipe with wire so it doesn't not fall down. Flue pipe joints should be held together at each joint with 3 screws.

4) Turn off water. Shut off valve is on COLD side.
Disconnect water pipes.

5) Move old water heater out of way.

6) Set new water heater in place. Put water heater in drip pan.

7) Connect water pipes >> cold goes to side marked cold.
Hot to hot.
Buy new flexible water connector pipes at home center for easy installation of water pipes.

8) Connect gas line exactly as it was connected before.
Home center sells flexible gas line connector for easy installation of gas line.
To test for gas leak after installation, mix liquid soap with water and put around gas line joints to see if there are bubbles.
Natural gas has less pressure than water lines, so gas pipes are easy to seal with ordinary wrench.

9) install TP pipe that runs to floor. Use old one off old heater.

10) Fill tank completely with water until water is coming out of tub spout.

11) Turn on gas, and light pilot as shown in manual.
New gas heater sometimes have small water leak when first fired up, so ignore a bit of water.

12) Save water heater manual like it is gold, and read everything in manual.

Dec 18, 2010 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Colman mobile home gas furnace to use in my garage/shop


generally speaking a sealed combustion system is inherently more safe than a system that draws it's combustion air from it's ambient location. however, it cannot be considered 100% safe in a potentially hazardous location. The actual system that would be used in a "code compliant" installation would be a 100% outside air unit.
That being said, you can install this in a garage, the vent that you are referring to (if it is a standard mobile home system) is generally directly above the unit and usually no longer than about five feet. It also requires a listed and labeled termination "cap" If you install 90 degree angles or extend the vent too far you will have issues with condensation in the piping that will cause the pipe/ heat exchanger to fail prematurely.
If the system is a 90+ efficeint unit then the PVC venting is generally allowed to be about 30 feet long, with a 1/4 inch per foot pitch back to the unit for condensation, also the general mfg. instructions allow either 2- 90 degree or 4 45 degree fittings in the line. hope this helps

Nov 06, 2009 | Coleman Propane Forced Air Heater...

1 Answer

Intertherm furnance chimmly icing up


it sounds like there is a restriction on top of you're flue pipe top, not allowing the air to escape in a normal way, ike bird nest, leaves or the position down on the pipe.

Jan 30, 2009 | Intertherm P3RA-048K Air Conditioner

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