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What kind of sewing machine would be best to use to make bags out of tractor truck, bike and car inner tubes? I will be using a variety of threads and would like to make the stitching a feature so a m

I need some advice about getting a sewing machine

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  • Sewing Machines Master
  • 1,564 Answers

That's pretty thick and difficult material to sew. Contact Cobra Steve at at the 800 number found here http://www.leathermachineco.com/

Be prepared to tell him exactly what you are doing. How many layers you will be sewing and other specifics.

Sounds like you need a 441 clone. (sews up to 3/4" thi/ck) and has a walking foot. Expect to pay about $2500 (+ /-) plus freight... tell him Sylvia sent you. ;)

Posted on Nov 30, 2012

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: My bottom thread is loose when sewing a straight stitch

Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.




Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !


Posted on Jul 24, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: singer simple sewing machine will not sew

need needle threading instructions singer 3116 simple. pictures would help. thank you

Posted on Mar 15, 2009

louislevel_2
  • 374 Answers

SOURCE: need sewing machince help????

hi;
breaking thread and thread below not hook up by upper thrread, this is due on not properly set up of thread tension,first check bobbins windin35caecd.jpgg see figure.the threads should
be counter clockwise.
the theading on upper set up should prorerly inserted follow figures.7dabcae.jpg
the dial set up tension should start at #3 to # 5
the stitch tension should be set to # 8 to # 12
use trial run for fabrics,diffferent set up in every fabric tru to study before sewing in other fabrics.have a nice day don't forget to rate me.thank s a lot

Posted on May 17, 2009

  • 96 Answers

SOURCE: stitching loose. won't thread the fabric

try to rethread the machine all the way back to the spool of thread and check the top and bottom tensions on scrap of same fabric

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

  • 1116 Answers

SOURCE: Bobbin thread will not stitch.

Have you had the machine serviced since you purchased it? This is something that should be done at least once a year.

Take the machine to a certified Singer dealer and explain what is happening. There may or may not be something that needs to be adjusted.

Your warranty is still in effect, but is now limited. Attempting to repair it yourself or having someone who is not a Singer dealer repair it will invalidate the remaining warranty.

Posted on Apr 16, 2010

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1 Answer

Where are the oiling points and what would make the threads constantly break


Depends on your make & model machine. Newer computerized machines require little or no oiling. Consult your owner's manual AND use only good quality sewing machine oil.

Thread breakage:

#1--Avoid bargain bin variety and old thread!

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My sewing machine model#385-12312 serial #24027509 The thread keeps breaking. I have changed the needle few times but it doesn't work.


Could be several reasons: mis-threaded, tension too tight, thread snagging on something or wrapped around something in the thread path, incompatibility of needle/thread/fabric... Also, avoid old or bargain bin variety thread--use only fresh good quality thread.

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Mar 06, 2017 | Sewing Machines

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My upper thread keeps breaking


Could be several reasons: mis-threaded, tension too tight, thread snagging on something or wrapped around something in the thread path, incompatibility of needle/thread/fabric... Also, avoid old or bargain bin variety thread--use only fresh good quality thread.

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Mar 04, 2017 | Sewing Machines

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I have a Mercury M141 industrial sewing machine and I am not sure which needles to use. Anyone have specifics? Also my thread shreds just before the needle, at the last thread guide?


You might ask about needles at your local sewing machine repair shop. As for the shredding thread, there is most likely a burr or a rough spot that is catching and fraying the thread. You might also try a different brand of thread. Avoid old or bargain bin variety.

...

Nov 02, 2016 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Why the thread cracked with when i sticked with the machine


Thread breakage could occur for several reasons.

First, try a brand new needle.

Second, use only good quality thread--NOT old thread or bargain bin varieties.

Third, when threading the upper thread, be sure to ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot throughout the threading process.

Verify that the thread path is correct (consult the owner's manual). Incorrect threading will usually break the thread.

Check that the upper thread tension is set at the midway point between the high & low numbers.

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Aug 27, 2016 | Brother ES2000 Computerized Sewing Machine

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How to thread kenmore sear roebuck sewing machine model 158. 1789181 got at auction no books


Sears carries a lot of manuals for their machines, although usually not free. In the meantime, there are many threading videos that demonstrate machine threading. Machines of similar models will thread similarly.

Threading mom old kenmore sewing machine

Kenmore 158 17550 Sewing Machine Tutorial

Probably best to raise the presser foot when threading so the thread will seat in the tension disk.

Before trying to sew, be sure to oil your machine with fresh, good quality sewing machine oil. Open the top, the side near the needle bar, and turn it on its back to get the underside. Place a couple drops of oil every place that metal rubs on metal. Adding hot air from a handheld hairdryer will make the oil effective quicker.

Be sure to install a brand new needle and use good quality thread--not old or bargain bin variety!

On the top left, there is probably a push button. This is the presser foot pressure adjustment. When the machine is stored, this pop-up button should be released (press down on the outer ring). Being stored with the pressure full on will eventually compress the spring that provides the pressure. Also, be sure to store the machine with the presser foot in the down position (preferably on a piece of scrap fabric). Avoid running the machine with the presser foot in direct contact with the feed dogs as this will wear the feed dogs and also create grooves in the presser foot.

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Jul 29, 2016 | Kenmore Sewing Machines

2 Answers

What thread to use?


You can search on the net directly. It maybe faster Motor Part Store Motor Parts Wholesale

Jun 27, 2016 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

What needle should I use


Depends on a lot--the fabric and thread you are using to sew. This guide should be very helpful:

All About Needles

Use only good quality thread--NOT old thread or bargain bin variety.

...

Jan 11, 2016 | Sewing Machines

2 Answers

Thread keeps breaking


Have you checked any edge the thread might contact for knicks which should be files or sanded down? Also, I had to replace my bobbin case after a number of years as it had kind of stretched out and allowed my bobbin to pop around and consequently broke many threads.

Feb 07, 2010 | Janome Memory Craft 9000 Computerized...

1 Answer

Do I need the embroidery hoop? does it connect to the thing in the back of the machine and moves areouns?


  1. What do I need to get started at free machine embroidery?
    • A zigzag sewing machine with a drop-feed control. (In other words, you have to be able to lower the feed dogs so they don't try to feed the fabric.) It's nice if you can vary the width of your zigzag stitches too.
    • An embroidery foot or needle with embroidery spring. An embroidery foot helps by holding the fabric down against the throat plate while nevertheless being minimal - it lets you see what you're doing because it has very little surface area. You can alternatively get a needle that has a kind of spring built into it, and the spring holds the fabric in place. These can be nice in that they're even more minimal than an embroidery foot, but they're also relatively expensive and if it breaks you have to replace the whole thing instead of using an ordinary cheap needle with the special embroidery foot. If you use the needle with spring, you don't use a presser foot while you embroider.
    • An embroidery hoop. There are two primary kinds of embroidery hoops on the market. The old-fashioned kind, usually made of wood, has an outer ring and an innter ring. You loosen the outer ring, separate the rings, place the fabric over the inner ring, place the outer ring over the fabric, tighten the outer ring, and pull the fabric tight in the hoop. With the modern type hoop, you squeeze a pair of handles on the inner ring to remove it, place the fabric over the outer ring, place the inner ring (still squeezed) into place and release the handles. The more modern hoop is faster and easier. The old-fashioned hoop provides better tension on the fabric.
    • Stabilizer. This helps prevent puckering and slipping while you're embroidering. There are a variety of types out there. Some are papery and are torn away from the embroidery when you're done. Only use that on the back side of the embroidery, as it's almost impossible to get it all off. Others are also papery and also tear away but are dissolvable in cold water, leaving only a few easy-to-remove fibers in the embroidery. Your authors like this type of stabilizer. There is also a transparent plastic-like stabilizer which dissolves completely in water. Your authors have this but haven't tried it yet, but hear it's very nice. It's expensive though.
    • Fabric... of course. Make sure that your embroidery hoop fits on the piece you're going to embroider on. If the piece is to be small, you may want to embroider before cutting the piece from the fabric.
    • Thread. Contrary to popular belief, you can use ordinary polyester all-purpose thread to embroider, but it can weaken the fabric you're embroidering on. (If you do use polyester, you may want to fuse some interfacing to the back of your embroidery when you're done.) There is plenty of gorgeous 100% rayon embroidery thread available.
    • Thread for the bobbin. This won't be seen on the surface, so you can use anything you want. Trying to find a way to get rid of that day-glo orange thread you can't remember why you bought? Stick it in the bobbin when you embroider. Some embroiderers feel that it's best to use a softer thread (like 100% cotton) in the bobbin so as to reduce the possibility that the bobbin thread will break the embroidery thread, but your authors haven't had a problem with this to date.
  2. How do I prepare the machine and fabric for free machine embroidery? Drop the feed dogs and set the stitch length at zero. (If you can't set the stitch length at zero, don't panic, it's not that important.) Install the fabric in the embroidery hoop (with any stabilizer[s] you intend to use) so that the surface of the fabric is at the *bottom* of the hoop. (Note that if you're used to embroidering or cross stich by hand, this means you're putting the fabric in the hoop backwards.) When you place the hoop on the table such that the fabric surface rests on the table, the right side of the fabric should face up. Install the embroidery foot or special embroidery needle with spring on the sewing machine. If you're using the special needle, remove the presser foot. Place the embroidery hoop in the sewing area. (Some machines can't lift the presser foot enough to admit some hoops - you may have to remove the presser foot temporarily, position the hoop, and then re-install the presser foot if you're using one.) Set the sewing machine for a straight stitch. Reduce the upper tension until stitches interlock below the fabric instead of above or inside it.
  3. How do I lock the thread at the beginning and end of my embroidery so it doesn't begin to unravel? Make several stitches in place to lock the thread.

Nov 13, 2009 | Janome Memory Craft 9000 Computerized...

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