Question about Lakewood Oil-Filled Electric Radiator Heater

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Find tip-over switch on Lakewood Heater

My heater does not work and I want to find & check the tip over switch. It may be called a thermal coupling.

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  • 57 Answers

Lakewood makes several styles of heaters,if it is the steam looking version,i don't think it has a tip over switch,because it cant start a fire...the tip over switch version has the counter balance switch in the casing under the coil and fan area..to check to see if it is working ,just turn it on and tip it over ,try it a couple of directions,if it shuts off it works.its not a thermocouple...

Posted on Nov 28, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 34 Answers

SOURCE: Lakewood oil radiator heater quit

visit http://www.lakewoodeng.com/html/parts.html for service center info and parts.

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

Natemane
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: ROCKER SWITCH DIAGRAM

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On the top of the switch (inside the heater) there is a common connection.....even though it looks as if it is connected (electrically), it isn't electrically affected by the switch; it's just used as a post. It's just the place where the striped wire connects to the "common" point for the heater coils (they are in a parallel). Also, while you're in there you might want to put some electrical grease on the exposed conductors.....mine had quite a bit of corrosion (which was the reason for the failure). I had to replace 3 of the female connectors.

Posted on Jan 01, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: The Lakewood 5500 oil-filled heater has stopped

Similar problem here. But in my case, it was a blown fuse. There's an in-line fuse on the internal wiring of the heater. Take the control-side off (remove the bottom grey plastic bracket, then remove a sheet metal screw, then slide the whole assembly down off of the radiator). Where the elements go into the reservoir at the bottom of the radiator, the white wire should have an inline fuse connected to it. It will probably be covered with what looks like heat-shrink tubing. Snip, snip, and replace.

Posted on Jan 11, 2010

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: my lakewood oil filled heater model 5600/7 just

The reason that it stopped is an open circuit. It is probably a blown thermal fuse. However, it could be any of the following if that is not the problem:

bad switch, broken or disconnected wire, burned open heater element, bad connections between terminals and wires, or between wire connectors and the wires within them.

If you take it apart, you will find the heat sensitive thermal fuse device under the heating elements, near the bottom of the unit. If the thermal fuse is good, it will appear as a short to an ohmmeter (zero ohms). If it is failed, it will appear as an open (infinite ohms).

The thermal fuse device can be replaced. Here is where to get one:
http://www.goodmans.net/get_list_632_2.htm

The thermal fuse may be this one, but check the temperature indication on yours first: Item#: TH-TF167C

Good luck.

Posted on May 10, 2010

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Need a thermal cutoff for our Lakewood 5500

We have these heaters and haven't had a fuse fail yet. I think it's because after the first time I got that crackling sound after moving it while it was on, I stopped doing that, and only move it with the power off, and wait two minutes before restarting it, so the oil can resettle.

However, the thermostats are now failing. Anyone know if this part is available?

Posted on May 14, 2010

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Bad Odor on the Lakewood Oil Filled Electric Radiator Heater


Pull the 4 small screws from top & bottom of plastic cover (2 under plastic tab on top, pry off) and then check ALL connectors and all wires. Chances are one of the leads has been overheating and smoldering (mine burnt wire off on lower Thermal switch.) You may need a KDS 301themal switch matching the one in your heater. Google for sellers.

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Lakewood Model 792/A My heater has stopped working. The light indicates that it is receiving power. I checked the tip switch to see if stuck open. OK Next step please? Jeff


Separate the case and trace out the wiring you are looking for an over heat limit switch. These are usually at the top of the case. You should also go over the element with a volt ohm meter make sure it is good, once you locate the thermal overload check it with the volt ohm meter it should read closed or dead short. If it reads open here is your culprit. It has been my observation that replacement parts can generally cost as much as replacing the entire heater. These I can pick up all day long for $19.00 at Home Depot the call them milk house heaters. Good luck with the repair.

Dec 28, 2010 | Lakewood 792/JR Utility Heater

1 Answer

My lakewood oil filled heater model 5600/7 just stopped working. It won't turn on..no lights. There is no history of tipping over.


The reason that it stopped is an open circuit. It is probably a blown thermal fuse. However, it could be any of the following if that is not the problem:

bad switch, broken or disconnected wire, burned open heater element, bad connections between terminals and wires, or between wire connectors and the wires within them.

If you take it apart, you will find the heat sensitive thermal fuse device under the heating elements, near the bottom of the unit. If the thermal fuse is good, it will appear as a short to an ohmmeter (zero ohms). If it is failed, it will appear as an open (infinite ohms).

The thermal fuse device can be replaced. Here is where to get one:
http://www.goodmans.net/get_list_632_2.htm

The thermal fuse may be this one, but check the temperature indication on yours first: Item#: TH-TF167C

Good luck.

Apr 06, 2010 | Lakewood (5500) Oil Filled Radiator Heater

1 Answer

No lights on switch on--no heat--on LAKEWOOD mODEL 7000/A


Look for a thing called a Thermal Fuse, small, pencil sized cylindrical, silver, (usually) with stiff lead at each end. It should be in the Phase/Active line. Try replacing that.

Feb 12, 2010 | Lakewood Oil-Filled Electric Radiator...

1 Answer

Heater stopped working


Use a multimeter set to Ohms, then check for continuity from the Phase to the switch, then to the Thermal fuse, < thats a good candidate for replacement, it should read a "Short" across it, OPEN circuit means it has failed. then from Thermal fuse, if OK, to Element(s), these should have resistance of about 12 - 15 Ohms...from one side to the neutral. When ON, there should be a Resistance reading on the Meter, of up to 20 Ohms measured across the 3 pin plug.would be OK.
Essentially with Neutral, as common, the Phase comes in to one side of a switch, the "Other" side of the switch goes to the Thermal Fuse, the "Other" side of that Fuse, goes to the "Hot" side of the Element. and the "Other" "Cold" side goes to Neutral, common. So essentially with the switch in the ON position, we should get a resistance reading on our meter. The reading is in accordance with Ohms law. IE: To get the resistance of an appliance, we take the Wattage, & divide it by the Voltage, Taking the answer from that, we then, divide the Voltage by that result, and we have our resistance. EG: 1000 Watts, divided by 112Volts = 8.9Amps. Therefore 112Volts divided by 8.9 = 12.4 Ohms. That is your resistance or Load. Hope this helps.

Feb 08, 2010 | Lakewood Oil-Filled Electric Radiator...

2 Answers

Lakewook oil filled radiator heater


Here is your problem and yes it can be fixed.

More than likely your thermal cutoff tripped because your heater got too hot.

Solution:
1. Unplug unit.
2. remove front support feet and screw underneath face plate will slide off.
3. You will see the heating element, a white wire is coming out of it. There is a white sleeve on the wire tucked up into the element. Pull the wire out and slide sleeve off to expose the thermal switch labeled (S.W.C. sw-120t ect.) You can google it to learn more about the cutoff. If you know how you can test the cutoff with a ammeter or voltmeter, If you don't google how to test electrical systems. Remember "first do no harm"
4.
a. If you can replace the cutoff do so (this is the recommended way)
b. If you don't want to replace it cut the cutoff out and solder the wires back together. (be warned that this will bypass the safety system) If you do this be careful to not leave your radiator unattended.
5. After soldering the wire, taping it will electrical tape. Replace face plate from step 1 and 2 and your heater will work.
P.s. If your heater is still under warranty just contact lakewood.

Jan 20, 2008 | Lakewood (5500) Oil Filled Radiator Heater

8 Answers

Lakewood oil filled heater model 5500


Follow up to my post of 13 January. Out of desperation, I took the heater apart and determined that an electrical fuse-like thermal overload device had opened on the neutral side of the feed to the heating element thus rendering the unit non-working. This device is wrapped in a sheath around the underside of the heating element's electrical connections where the element enters the radiator's core. If the element exceeds the rated temperature it apparently "blows" or electrically opens much like a fuse. The lights still come on but no electricity is getting to the element. When I removed this from the circuit, the the unit began making heat. Apparently, when the heater is on full (both switches on for the full 1,500 watts) the core temperature gets too high. So, I now use my heater on only the 900 watt setting and it's putting out plenty of heat. Today's high is 2F and the room is comfortable. I've no doubt the manufacturer would not condone this modification and I have no intention of turning my modified heater back on "HIGH." Therefore I do not recommend doing this yourself unless you are competent in electrical and soldering work and are sure you won't overheat the unit. Having said that Lakewood clearly has either a design flaw or a bad batch of heater elements or overload protectors out there. When I have time, I'm planning to send my defective protector back to them with a letter. But given that they never responded to my e-mail to their customer service don't expect much in the way of a reply. As they say on TV, don't try this at home.

Dec 08, 2007 | Lakewood (5500) Oil Filled Radiator Heater

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