Question about Whirlpool GR465LXLS Electric Kitchen Range
You seem to have a loose connection. This is the first issue I would tackle. Make sure you have proper 240 vac from the supply at the terminal block. Then you need to check l-1 and l-2 against white neutral for 120 vac. The clock needs 120 vac to properly light up. Then check the p1-1 power supply connection for 120 vac. between p1-4 connection neutral . If all this is solid, then double check the p-2 connector (p.c.b.). All pins need to be matched correctly and the pin connections at the jumper harness need to be checked to see if they (one- by- one) have not backed out slightly and making a partial connection. You can use a pick tool to remove the inner tang and remove the wire connector itself individually. Then pry up on the terminal tang and insert it fully back into the connector so it will make a solid pin connection. You will be able to tell if one is bent needing correction. At p-2 on the pcb board, pin # 5 is a brown wire with a non resettable fuse internally with the wire itself. Make sure there is continuity between these 2 -points as the fuse needs to be closed. This jumper goes to the clock p-7 pin connections.
Posted on Nov 28, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Most electric range ovens are controlled by the electronic oven control (EOC). If your oven is not working and there is no display on the clock, more than likely you have a bad EOC. The board is not serviceable and has to be replaced. I hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 25, 2007
hoops, it almost sounds like you lost a leg of power, L2. L1 is sending power to the board but but it's not making the loop. Too much of a coencidence that the burners and oven are not working. Check the cord connection to the oven. You should have 220V across the 2 outer terminals. 120V from each end to center terminal. Let me know what you find. Catriver.
Posted on Dec 16, 2007
SOURCE: Re:Whirlpool SF310PKE gas range
When the oven safety valve refuses to open and let gas through, it's almost always because not enough current is flowing through the ignitor. Often an aging ignitor will appear to be glowing pretty brightly but still won't draw enough current to make the valve open. The first thing to try replacing is the ignitor.
You describe your ignitor as "red and glowing" but oven ignitors normally get a lot brighter than "red" -- well into what I'd call yellow.
Posted on Dec 21, 2007
you say after 5 min of plugging in , is this brand new and still covered under your 1st year warr???if so get an authorized servicer out there to take a look at why should you be responsible for their problem
Posted on Mar 17, 2008
Control is bad if it is getting power- needs to be replaced. Please contact me if you need further help and leave feedback. Thanks for letting me help you!
Posted on Dec 01, 2008
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