Question about Atwood Mobile Products Atwood G6A-8E 6-gallon Water Heater Electronic Ignition

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Heater has low voltage and will not run

I tested from beginning to end and found 12v through the t-stst to the circuit board. From the circuit board to the ECO I have 6v. The solenoid valve needs 12v correct? I put 12v on the valve to function check and it works. Can You Help? Thank You Ron

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Attach black on meter, or ground clamp on test light to good ground such as cooper line. Test for 12vdc at gas valve when switch turned on and you hear or see ignitor sparking. If no 12vdc, backtrack. Follow red wire from gas valve to (ECO), (both terminals,) then same to thermostat (THERM) . If you get 12vdc on one side, and 6vdc or no voltage on the other, replace it. If you've got 12vdc going to gas valve, and don't feel or hear it "Click" when trying to ignite, try a quick "rap" on valve to see if it's stuck. If valve is opening and you hear gas, but no ignition, clean burner tube good and retry.

Posted on Dec 30, 2013

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Atwood water heater g6a8e lights but flame goes out after 5 to 10 seconds. I replaced igniter / thermocouple and it worked for a while but problem is back. So I need to replace circuit board?


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Have you tried removing the thermal cut off from the circuit. ( inside the little plastic sleeve ) and wiring it direct to terminal thermal cut off is attached to? Also, try removing the connector at the circuit board and rub the contacts on the board with a pencil eraser and re-try. Sometimes just bad contact at connector tabs. No spark, no 12v to gas valve when turned to ignite, replace board/module.

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I have a 1992 bounder mh ,6a6e atwood water heater.I recently replaced the coach batteries and main battery.My circuit board went bad,replaced along with eco and thermostat.My gas valve was rusty and...


First check thermal cut-off that is connected between incoming power wire and thermostat terminal. (located inside little clear plastic sleeve) Easiest way to do that is to remove it from the circuit temporarily. Just pull it off thermostat terminal, pull it apart from other end, and just connect female spade from incoming power wire directly to thermostat terminal. Then see if water heater ignites. If it does, and all works well, get new thermal cut-off. That cut-off is a safety feature in case of flame up at burner, it will shut off gas supply. It is not reset-able, just works once then needs to be replaced.
If that doesn't cure it, take a 12v test light, or a multimeter, and test for power at gas valve, when water heater is trying to ignite, or at ECO terminal where red wire runs from left ECO terminal to gas valve. If power is getting to gas valve, and you don't hear or feel it click, make sure ground connection is sufficient as well. If you have 10.5-13.5 volts to gas valve, and it's not opening and ground is good, then it's faulty and should be replaced. If it is clicking, (opening) but no gas coming through, you may have a plugged orifice on gas valve, provided you have cleaned burner tube of any spider webs or debris previously. If no voltage from red wire, start back tracking with meter or test light to other terminal on ECO, then to terminals on thermostat as well. You'll see how feed wire (short jumper) goes from thermostat, over to ECO. Remember, you will have to hold test light or meter probe at connection and have someone turn on switch to get a reading, which will only appear when it's trying to ignite. Let me know what you find.

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Correct me if I am wrong but you have and error code 12 immeadiately you turn the tap on.
If so you have a short circuit on the low voltage side of the system. Usually this is somewhere on the wiring to your remote control pads. Easy way to test is to turn the power off, that is unplug the power lead to the heater. Take the cover off the front of the heater. Locate where the leads that supply the controllers conect in to the heater. Older models this will be on the circuit board, newer ones right at the base of the casing. You need to disconnect this wring (not the main power supply lead). Once done put the case back on and give the heater a try. If the problem is gone you have a short circuit on the wiring to controllers or a fauly controller. If the fault remains you have a short circuit on the low voltage side inside the heater. Likely need a technican to find this but tell himto start with the wiring to the the overheat thermal fuse that goes around the heat exchanger casing.

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If this is an AC power source, normally, a voltage variance of this magnitude (around 15%) would not be considered significant. The voltage itself would have been transformed down from the supply voltage (via a transformer) and a + 15% overvoltage on the grid would not be uncommon in many lands, particularly outside of peak load periods. This could account for the variance that you have identified and would be a 'normal' operating condition.

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