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Does the Blower Motor work when power is applied-- just to it? Sounds like a high current draw on that circuit Need wiring diagram & ability to know how to test for the problem I only work from factory diagnostic manuals & wiring books- I buy for all my vehicles when they are new. No way you can push & poke,wish & hope You need to see the circuits on paper & have the manufactures ideas on how to diagnose
i think you have two different problems , replace the feeder spring, and replace the oring on the driver piston. also make sure that the coil of nails is perfectly round if they are dropped or squeezed tool will not work right
Printer switching on?.Might be power supply failed, replace Power supply board.if you are tech guy..Open left,right & back doors. Check input fuse.. if fuse open replace with same rated fuse, give power, check.. if again fuse is open replace power supply board. if its OK wait few minutes & confirm.. fix it back..
The power amp chip has probably blown. It is a TDA2050 cost about $3. They don't even use thermal grease on these to help conduction to heat sink. Make sure you do use thermal grease when replacing. Also be careful of pluggin anything OTHER than headphones in the headphone jack. It can result in blowing the amp chip.
Usually an overheating CPU is a result of bad or insufficient CPU grease.
If it is a desktop: - Unplug - Remove case cover - Replug, BRIEFLY turn on to make sure CPU FAN is working properly - IF FAN DOESN'T WORK: - Replace fan! - IF FAN DOES WORK: - Unplug fan power cord - Remove heat sink and clean with compressed air - Carefully remove CPU from socket after releasing it via hinge mechanism - Using rubbing alcohol and cotton or lint free cloth, clean cpu and bottom of heat sink of old grease - TO APPLY NEW GREASE (purchase from anywhere): - USE SMALL AMOUNTS! One of the big mistakes with applying is the tendency to put too much - I'd suggest 3 to 4 dabs, no more than 3 to 4 millimeters in diameter - Replace heat sink - Use a program such as CPUID HWmonitor (freeware) to monitor temperature. It should hover in the 60 centigrade. If constantly above 74 then you may need to reapply grease.
If it is a laptop:
You can use most of the steps above but getting to the heat-sink will be tricky as the proprietary design of every make and model makes it difficult to access internal parts. I'd suggest taking it in!
USUALLY if the output transistors go, they stay gone. You may have a thermal cutout switch shutting off because of over temp. Make sure fans and heat sinks have free air flow. I have seen broken solder joints in these near the volume pots. Those can also cause a failure as unit warms. When it stops again, let it sit without playing for say 10 minutes and see if it comes back on... if it does, the over temp sensor is probably shutting it down so it doesn't fry. Is it possible you are driving it too hard? Often people try to get more sound level out than unit can deliver.