Water runs after unit is shut off and door is open
Water trickles out continuously out of the inside rubber gasket hole. It seems to be only hot water. I have to run the cycle through again a couple times to get it to stop. There are no error codes since the cycle is completly through and the door is open.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
open the door,check the rubber boot for any holes,ussually that's where it leaks,also wipe the inside of the door,i've found hair and lint stuck on the inside bottom of the door and water leaks out but pull open the rubber boot and run your fingers all around it to check for any holes.you can remove the bottom panel and then run the machine to see where the leak is coming from.
do you mean from the bottom of door? if so open door and run your fingers around the rubber gasket to see if there is any forign matter or rips, and check the small drain hole on the inside bottom of gasket, if there is a tear you could repair with a bicycle innertube repair patch
With the machine off, open the door and spray Clorox Clean-Up inside of the front rubber door seal/gasket. You should be able to gently flex the rubber seal to get inside of its cavity. This is where mold, etc. tends to accumulate. After a minute or so, brush or wipe away any debris that has accumulated. Be careful not to wear good clothes! Once you have completed the gasket/seal cleaning, begin a hot water cycle with no detergent to thoroughly rinse the bleach from the door seal/gasket.
From then on, occassionally glance inside the gasket/seal to see whether there is a build-up of mold, etc. and repeat the aforementioned process.
Some front loaders have a door boot drain hole, most do not and it is normal for some water to accumulate at bottom of boot. To help with mold and mildew use a washing machine cleaning solution, follow directions. Also a bleach solution of 2 parts water 1 part bleach sprayed on area helps. If mildew is really bad, nothing will completly remove it. Make sure you use only a high efficiency detergent.
We found there is three small holes on the seal right inside the door, check to see if they are clogged with soap scum and clean them out. Run a cycle of hot water and bleach. Then, after each use, leave the door open and let it air dry and this has seem to work.
where your water lines connect there is a sc reen inside and if it is clogged with rust lime and or mineral deposit. it needs cleaned out. you can pull it out with a ice pick or something pointy. Check your screen first and if that doesn't fix ya then yes replace the unit.
The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine. No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.
If your washer fills with water, usually slowly, after the cycle is over you have a inlet water valve which is not shutting off completely. LG usually uses a separate valve for the hot and cold. If you turn off the valve where the hose comes from the house and observe for continued water fill, first one, the reopen it, then shut off the other you should be able to see which (hot or cold) is the culprit. If you post your exact model number I should be able to list the part numbers for you. The inlet valves I am speaking of are the part where the hoses connect onto your machine.