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My samsung side by side refridgerator RSH1JLMR fridge is not working but freezer working perfectly.

The fridge side is not cooling as it is suppose to. The freezer is working fine. Have tried to unplug and plug it back but there is no change.

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: freezer works but refridgerator warm

you could find ice behind the back panel - worth a check. however the problem is probably ice in the return vent from fridge to freezer and the only way to cure is to switch off and leave for a day with doors open. if im right and you try this, if it re-occurs you may have a problem with the defrost system

Posted on Apr 09, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Samsung RS2556 - Refrigerator side is not cooling - Freezer is fine

Ok, what I found out is that there are codes built into the front panel. If you hold the top left and right buttons for 5 seconds, the fridge will reset. If there are no issues, the panel goes blank. If there is a dash in the right side of the panel, there is an issue with the fridge side. In the left, freezer side. The dash indicates a defrost problem. Only a couple of things can cause this. 1. Sensor 2. Heater 3. Fan, 4. control board.

Posted on Jul 02, 2008

  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: fridgedaire doesn't cool till unplugged

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

if this helps please giv a fixya vote

Posted on Jul 15, 2008

tborn6
  • 700 Answers

SOURCE: samsung rs2533sw fridge not cooling

it sounds like the refrigerator evap is frozen up causing the compartment to get too hot. shut the unit off and let it thaw out. then take the screws out of the cover to check the stryrofoam on the back side of the cover to see if theres broken spots on it causing the air to bypass the evap causing it to freeze. Theres two screws behind the light cover and two at the very bottom of the cover and two behind the decorative plugs about 1/2 way

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

tborn6
  • 700 Answers

SOURCE: samsung rs2533sw fridge not cooling

soiunds like the coil on the refrigerator side is iced up.take and open the refrfigerator side and take a blow drier and after removing the 11 screws use the hair drier to slowly melt the icec behind the cover. If you pull too hard and or too soon you'll break the stryofoam ductin that has to be around the coil. then make sure that the drain line is clear reassemble and have a Merry Christmas!

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

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If you have noticed a rise in temperature in the fridge, and there seems to be fromst building up in the freezer than your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute.

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