Hi, can anyone give me the specs. for the motor start capacitor on an A200 mixer? Hobart UK are quoting 3-4 week lead time and I can't wait that long so need to find an equivalant. many thanks in advance. (p.s. the manuals I have just state capacitor and P# 00-070487-00025, not the actual specs.)
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I think... without knowing that motor... that the capacitor is a start capacitor, and that the start switch may be trying to "start" the motor full-time instead of switching it out of circuit after it figures that the motor has spun up. I may be wrong - that design may be a capacitor-run motor (similar to a three-phase motor) - but I'm betting it's a start-only capacitor.
If you know someone with a capacitance meter, you could check the capacitor - for both capacitance (to be sure it matches the label) and leakage. Easy way to write that one off. Alternatively, you could rig it such that after the motor's wound up you could manually disconnect the capacitor and see what happens - either the motor stops or else the smoking issue stops.
Whatever you do, don't let it smoke very long. The varnish on the windings is only so thick.
Do not heat up you have to strip the gear box but not all take the top gears off but look what you are doing its got to go back the same way or it won't work you have to take the worm gear off and then you can take it out from the back but if you can't do it get in touch with **** at x bakery in Haywood and ill sort it for you hope this helps it is a big job sorry
There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:
Motor start capacitor Start switch (electronic or mechanical) Burned wiring Motor start winding
The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.
The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.
Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.
Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.
It sounds like you get a degrading or bad start capacitor (locate right behind motor cover (see fig 22, page 12 of part catalog, cost $13). Here how you can check if your machine still work properly: 1- Rotate the agitator shaft manually to check for any binding. 2- remove two wires from the capacitor. 3- Use a small jumper, connect one end jumper to one wire and touch the other end jumper to second wire 4- As soon as motor start, remove the jumper. Good luck, If your ,machine have never have preventive mainternance it is a time to do so. (atva)
Assuming the unit is 120v, single phase, my money is on a bad electronic start switch (not to be confused with the on/off switch) It's not visible without some disassembly. Usually, it is located at the rear of the motor cavity. Take note of all the info on your model data plate then go here to obtain a parts breakdown on your particular mixer. http://www.hobartservice.com/Parts/
Hi, it is hard to determine exactly what the problem is without seeing it, however, that mixer usually uses a capacitor to help start the motor, and a switch, or relay, that are in the back of the unit. You probably will not find any troubleshooting guide, Hobart does not give up information easily. You can take it to an electric motor repair shop, and they will easily be able to tell which of those is the problem, and will be reasonable in price. Your other option is to contact Hobart locally for service assistance. Maybe one of the other Hobart techs here can help you out more.