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My samsung sw65asp2 just won't turn on.

There is powed getting to the circuit board but the power on button won't work. does the circuit board need replacing and where can i order one? or get part number?

Posted by Anonymous on

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SOURCE: hu where can i get

got new pump and installed it

Posted on Aug 02, 2008

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try PTS electronics, or tristatemodule...

Posted on Jul 11, 2009

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SOURCE: Power Supply Board for SAMSUNG 40" LCD TV Model LA40R81BX

You'll find some Samsung power supply boards here :
but you have to open your TV first and find out model number

Posted on May 10, 2010

  • 1554 Answers

SOURCE: I own a Maytag Model# MDE6700AYW: Problem: When

It sounds like the problem is a blown safety thermostat located on the blower housing or the belt cut-off switch is not functional. Verify any of these conditions by passing the safety thermostat then the belt cut-off switch if necessary.

Disconnect power and locate the safety thermostat (thermostat 1) on the blower housing. Disconnect the wires. and connect them together then insulate it properly. Reconnect power and start the dryer. The safety thermostat is indeed blown and needs to be replaced along with the thermistor if the dryer starts.

Bypass the belt cut-off switch keeping the safety thermostat bypassed if the dryer still doesn't start. Replace the belt cut-off switch if the dryer starts. Start the dryer with only the belt cut-off switch bypassed. Also replace the safety thermostat and the thermistor if the dryer stops working.

Just in case the dryer doesn't heat up, bypass both the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off on the heater housing. Replace both the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off if the dryer heats up. Do not use the dryer with any safety component bypassed due to fire hazards. Bypassing them is for troubleshooting purposes only.

Check the heating element for broken coil if the it doesn't heat up. Replace the heating element if broken. Redo the moz-screenshot.pngmoz-screenshot-1.pngtroubleshooting with the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off above if the new heating element still doesn't turn on.

Posted on Nov 18, 2010

  • 354 Answers

SOURCE: Samsung front loader model number

Well unplug and hope that powers down your solenoid that is keeping it closed. Whats happening is that it thinks there is still water in there and it doesnt want you opening it. So if there is no water in there turn off circuit breaker off then back on or unplug for a moment to see if it resets itself. It should open on power down and if nothing else clear itself on reboot (yes there is a computer in there) . I would say you have a faulty sensor or the sensor is staying wet some how . try those and let me know

Posted on Jun 23, 2011

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Here's is what you need to look for when describing a problem for troubleshooting purposes:

0) What model is the TV (you've covered that)

1) Does the TV respond to command to turn on?
(yes - continue; no - 70% bad power, 30% bad main board)

2) Once it responds (clicks), does a front LED or other indication show that it turns on? It's OK if there's no display.

(that can be model specific and is not certain indication for anything until known what is specific for the model)

3) If such an indication comes up does it remain on until you act or does it go off by itself?
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4) If the power indication stays on by itself can you make it go off by pressing the power button or do you have to disconnect from AC power?
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Here is a link for test/repair of the power supply of your TV, hope it would help:

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Your circuit board could be bad, but i would pull out the circuit board and spray contact cleaner onto the button, let it dry a few minutes and connect the battery and press that button quiet a few times and see if that fixes the problem.

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Replace the power supply board the blinking power indicator is usually indicating the power supply needs replacement or repair. You can get the replacement power supply boards from

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Your model Samsung falls under a class actions settlement. These units have defective power supply boards and Samsung has agreed to pay for the repair / replacement of the boards at no cost to the user even if the unit is out of standard warranty. This sounds like the issue with your TV. Here is a link with additional information about the settlement and how to get the warranty work completed.

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Lightning damage can do a # on LCD TV's. I've seen cases where it took out power supplies and main boards at the same time. I'm not one who likes to use the "shot gun" approach. You would need to get the set professionally diagnosed in my opinion. Where did you get the main board from?? Are you sure it is a working board?

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This indicates a possible problem either with the power board in the set (check the voltages) or elsewhere in the set triggering the set into shutdown.

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I would remove the hinge / power button cover again and make sure the little pip that presses the button down it not broken, also check the little circuit board with the switch on to make sure it's not disconnected.
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We pulled our stacked washer out from the wall to service the cold water hose filter on the back of the unit. when we pushed it back into it's location the washer won't start, won't fill...

I know you don't want to hear this, but either you did something to the hose filter or you didn't get it plugged back in correctly.

If you banged the water inlet valve in moving it back, it might be damaged.

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There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.

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