Question about Whirlpool Inglis IP8200 Dryer
Wire connected to high limit thermostat blown, how easy is it to replace one wire (red) as well as thermostat
It is a simple process. Just use the same gauge wire and a spade to connect to the thermostat.
Posted on Nov 28, 2012
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: can't control heat setting
Either your dryer vent is clogged, the blower wheel is striped out and not turning or the internal bias thermostat you bought is bad. These are the only things that can make the dryer over heat.
Please rate solution.
Posted on Sep 05, 2009
SOURCE: Dryer won't heat?
Make sure your electrical connections are correct.
Check the voltage to the dryer element and make sure you are getting 220 volts.
Otherwise I am at a loss also...good luck
I hope this helps
Posted on Oct 01, 2009
The correct part you should have gotton , with the small extra terminal is pt # 3977767 , however , there is a pt which comes with the thermal cut-off and high limit , with the jumper wire to exclude this small terminal . If you received only the 2 t-stats , then you got the wrong part .
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks for the quick repsonse!"
Check the element for continuity.(just because it looks good don't mean it is)If it went out on high limit you have another problem that needs to be addressed.Check your vent for blockage first after you check the element.The switch can be checked with a ohmeter.If your not sure on procedures I suggest you call a pro.(This is a simple resistance circut)Hope this helps
Posted on Jan 17, 2010
After reading your post I can't help but wonder, have you checked to insure the dryer has 240vac going to it. These dryer's will appear to work almost perfectly with 120vac, with one exception...you guessed it, No Heat !
If you know the location of your homes service panel go to it. Locate the 30amp breaker and turn it all the way "off" and then all the way "on" do not just identify it and assume it is ok because ot doesn't appear "tripped".
This happens all to often when I go to a customers home. The first words out of there mouths is "It's not the breaker I checked" and then I physically check "reset" the breaker ( after verifying the dryer is only receiving 120vac and not 240vac with my meter ) and what do you know, heat !
That could be the problem all it's own. The other thing to look for is a poor connection ( loose and burnt or badly oxidized...or both ) on either of the "hot" cord lines coming into the unit, either the red or black.
Let me know what you find out, but that's where I'd be looking before installing anymore part's.
Posted on May 01, 2010
Testimonial: "power good. cords good. what next?"
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 18, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers
Feb 10, 2011 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer
Jan 19, 2011 | Roper Dryers
Jan 11, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers
Dec 21, 2010 | Dryers
Dec 18, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers
Nov 08, 2010 | Kenmore 72872 Gas Dryer
Nov 08, 2010 | Kenmore 72822Gas Dryer
Apr 05, 2009 | Dryers
Feb 20, 2008 | Dryers
42 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: