Question about Whirlpool Inglis IP8200 Dryer

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Inglis dryer wire blown what to do

Wire connected to high limit thermostat blown, how easy is it to replace one wire (red) as well as thermostat

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 9,472 Answers

It is a simple process. Just use the same gauge wire and a spade to connect to the thermostat.

Posted on Nov 28, 2012

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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hiltonjug
  • 612 Answers

SOURCE: can't control heat setting

Either your dryer vent is clogged, the blower wheel is striped out and not turning or the internal bias thermostat you bought is bad. These are the only things that can make the dryer over heat.
Please rate solution.

Posted on Sep 05, 2009

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer won't heat?

Make sure your electrical connections are correct.
Check the voltage to the dryer element and make sure you are getting 220 volts.
Otherwise I am at a loss also...good luck
I hope this helps

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: The new high limit thermostat has different prongs

The correct part you should have gotton , with the small extra terminal is pt # 3977767 , however , there is a pt which comes with the thermal cut-off and high limit , with the jumper wire to exclude this small terminal . If you received only the 2 t-stats , then you got the wrong part .

Posted on Oct 11, 2009

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THENTHEREWER
  • 131 Answers

SOURCE: Is it possible that a temperature switch may cause

Check the element for continuity.(just because it looks good don't mean it is)If it went out on high limit you have another problem that needs to be addressed.Check your vent for blockage first after you check the element.The switch can be checked with a ohmeter.If your not sure on procedures I suggest you call a pro.(This is a simple resistance circut)Hope this helps

Posted on Jan 17, 2010

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: Hello, I have whirlpool dryer model # LER7646JQ0.

Hello avonladywend,


After reading your post I can't help but wonder, have you checked to insure the dryer has 240vac going to it. These dryer's will appear to work almost perfectly with 120vac, with one exception...you guessed it, No Heat !

If you know the location of your homes service panel go to it. Locate the 30amp breaker and turn it all the way "off" and then all the way "on" do not just identify it and assume it is ok because ot doesn't appear "tripped".

This happens all to often when I go to a customers home. The first words out of there mouths is "It's not the breaker I checked" and then I physically check "reset" the breaker ( after verifying the dryer is only receiving 120vac and not 240vac with my meter ) and what do you know, heat !

That could be the problem all it's own. The other thing to look for is a poor connection ( loose and burnt or badly oxidized...or both ) on either of the "hot" cord lines coming into the unit, either the red or black.

Let me know what you find out, but that's where I'd be looking before installing anymore part's.

good luck.

macmarkus :)

Posted on May 01, 2010

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The heating element is wired in series with a thermal cut-off and a high-limit thermostat both located on the heater housing.The thermal cut-off blows open when the high-limit thermostat fails to cycle off in order to regulate the heating element temperature. When the thermal cut-off is blown, power to the element is cut-off and the dryer will not heat. Replacing both thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat if the former is indeed blown. Click on the links below for the troubleshooting and repair details.


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The problem is likely in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

jahn27_43.jpg

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In case the dryer still doesn't heat up with the
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The problem is likely in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

jahn27_43.jpg

The
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat are sold as a kit with part number 279816 and costs about $30.

In case the dryer still doesn't heat up with the
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The problem when the dryer runs but doesn't heat is usually caused by a failed high-limit thermostat and a blown thermal cut-off both located on the heater housing. Verify this by bypassing both parts for troubleshooting purposes then running the dryer.

Disconnect power then remove the screws attaching the bottom front panel to the bottom flange of the cabinet. Slide the panel down and off the cabinet to access the heater housing.
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Remove the hex-head screw from the heater shield and remove the shield.
jahn27_87.jpg

Disconnect the red wire from the thermal cut-off and the red/white stripe wire from the heater. Connect the red wire disconnected from the thermal cut-off to the heater terminal where the red/white stripe wire is disconnected from.
jahn27_88.jpg

Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed with the two bypassed components if the dryer heats up. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat and it should solve the heating problem. Do not use the dryer with those parts bypassed due to high risk of fire hazards. Let us know should you need further advice.

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The common problem in this case is in the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off located on the heater housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat by removing the bottom front panel.

Removing Bottom Front Panel

jahn27_46.jpg

Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect the power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Let us know should you need further assistance.

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jahn27_43.jpg
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jahn27_16.jpg
Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

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jahn27_15.jpg
Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

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Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.

Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.

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