Question about Jenn-Air JDB3600AWS Builtin Dishwasher

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Jenn-Air JDB3600AWS won't turn on

No lights, nothing, was working fine then just quit.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: Jenn Air oven Model D156 won't turn on

get a new range

Posted on Aug 11, 2008

dltatsjc
  • 54 Answers

SOURCE: Jenn-Air JJW8530 LCD panel does not light up

BrianGem posted a great solution back in May of '08, I just completed that fix on my own Jenn air, took me about 30 minutes once I got the correct capacitor.
The display board apparently has a weak spot in the
design, most likely heat related, (probably low priced components from offshore sources)
Fix: Replace heat damaged capacitor labeled C3 on display board, Hard part will be obtaining the 35Volt 68uF capacitor, I'm lucky enough to have a Brother in the electronics design field who found me a couple of high reliability caps designed for hot applications, He does not recommend changing sizes without design review for fear of overloading another component, however several other posts have indicated that a 35V 100mF cap has worked fine for them.

TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN PRIOR TO STARTING ANY REPAIRS.
My control panel was attached to the oven with 4 screws accessed from above the top oven door, the panel slid up about 1/2 " and lifted off, Unplug the ribbon cables and the panel can be removed to a convenient work surface. The display board itself is mounted with 4 screws and connected with a wide flat ribbon cable, the suspect capacitor is surface mounted to the reverse side of the board, two plastic clips need to be released (gently) and the ribbon cable unplugged. Capacitor is likely discolored or leaking, Using as small a soldering iron as you can find De-solder it and replace with new, match polarity marks and don’t use any more solder than needed.
If you run into trouble drop me an e-mail to dltatsjc@aol.com and I’ll try to help.
Good luck.
Thanks for this site..

Link to Photo sequence of capacitor replacement (Captions still will not link):
http://picasaweb.google.com/dltatsjc/Photos?authkey=Gv1sRgCJPKv9CRgsXxNA

Posted on Oct 12, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Jenn Air refrigerator ice maker quit working

My Jenn-Air refrigerator (JRSD2790) quit making ice, dispensor works, water dispensor works. Do I need to replace the entire
ice maker?

bjones03@comcast.net

Posted on Feb 13, 2010

  • 189 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Jenn Air Oven that quit working. It

HI - The code described, F3 then F2 both correspond with indicated failure of the temperature sensor. This is a fairly inexpensive part and is easy to replace. The normal resistance of the sensor is 1000-1100ohms. Worth fixing for sure. Complete model number from tag on unit will be needed to get correct part. Let me know if this info helps- have more if needed- Thanks-  Ed  

Posted on Mar 17, 2010

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: What does F1 mean on

F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode or
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.

Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor gotsta be within spec or it will cause the F1 code. As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode. This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven. The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit). The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms. The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness, harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad. If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously. If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle), remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes, then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner. The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied, the surface material can break down causing shorts. If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel -don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Hope this helps.

Posted on Jun 03, 2011

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