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Washing machine not draining water

It made a kachunk noise, then stopped. Hasn't drained any water since. Manually removed all the wet clothes & tried restarting washing machine, still stops after rinse cycle, but before draining.

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  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 9,472 Answers

What is the model number of your unit?

Posted on Nov 28, 2012

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Washing machine stops in rinse cycle.

Okay...I asked you a question in your other posting before I saw this one. This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plunger on the lid itself. Make sure the plunger is not broken off. This will also keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.

Posted on Feb 11, 2008

freetek
  • 5568 Answers

SOURCE: will not drain after the wash cycle, will not enter the rinse cycle

In my opinion, you will need someone on site to find whether the program switch has failed or it is only the pump itself.
The former is quite expensive but the pump shouldn't cost more than $20-30 plus labor.

When you write 'does not respond,' do you mean it makes no noise at all or just doesn't pump?
If it makes no noise, it is likely the program switch.

If you can determine that it is the pump, this is often a fairly accessible and simple job not requiring a lot of tools.
Keep a mop handy though . . .

Posted on May 01, 2008

  • 20 Answers

SOURCE: machine fills and agitates, but won't drain

Please empty your machine and run the machine empty. If the washer goes through the whole cycle without any clothes. Please let me know

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

  • 188 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore front-load washer stops at rinse cycle

When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Good luck!

Posted on Mar 03, 2009

  • 686 Answers

SOURCE: Washing Machine is not draining in rinse cycle to go to spin cycl

you both seem to have bad lid switches. A bad lid switch will prevent draining and spinning.

Posted on Apr 04, 2009

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Kenmore Elite Washer Stopped mid-cycle. Only hums when turning on


You will have to drain it, those units use a belt to drive the transmission. It may have come off the pulleys or broken in half. If you can get a large wet and dry vacuum, that would make it easier to drain. Hook the vacuum to the drain hose and remove the water.

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Machine had been giving E20 error code - filter cleared and it re-started ok. When wash was in progress - jammed at rinse stage and all lights came on (except spin speeds) and humming noise and nothing...


E20 is an error code for drainage failure.



Check where the appliance drain hose connects to the house drains for a blockage.

If it's onto a spigot under the sink, take them off and check both for a blockage.

If these are ok then it's likely to be a blockage in the pump.



You'll need to drain the water out manually.

Put a shallow dish below the filter and slacken the filter.

Tighten it to stop the flow of water while you empty the dish.

Once empty, take the filter out, clean out the debris and ensure nothing is left jamming the pump.

Before refitting the filter, put the machine on drain or spin and listen at the filter housing to see if you can hear the pump running.

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2. Pump does not run----readjust & tighten pump, drive mechanism
3. Suds lock---remove suds add cold water
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My washing machine stops half way through the cycle, and makes a ringing noise, I think it stops just before the spin cycle as it is full when it stops.


Possible that the drain pump is faulty and it is clogged with fabric dirt and so as it tries to spin and drain you hear the noise but since the water does not drain the controller unit shuts down as a an error.
So manually lift the drain and clear the water, then remove the drain pump assmebly and open to clear the dirt , refit and check.
Check this link for some tips:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKjKi50YBpI&NR=1&feature=fvwp

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The last time I used my washing machine the clothes came out soaking wet like they hadn't spun properly but I put it down to me maybe having selected the wrong programme. But today when I attempted to...


Hi theresabowen,

It sounds like your drain pump may have something obstructing the pump impeller, easy fix, see my Tip below:

ACCESSING, DRAINING & CLEANING THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER...

Kind Regards d')

* If you found this solution helpful, please rate it.

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Model 57051A0ww does not drain (humming noise). Drains manually when hose lowered.


I'm not familiar with the model number and you have not supplied a manufacturer, however, this is almost certainly a simple problem with your empty pump filter being clogged. The empty cycle is timed and if it can't get all the water out in time because the filter is blocked and slowing the empty down, then it will fail safe and won't step on to the final spin cycle with excess water in the drum.
You need to locate and clean the filter. Depending on the model, there is probably a round filter cap on the front of the machine at the bottom (It may be behind a small door or hidden behind a clip on panel on the bottom) Many models of this design also have a small hose to the right of the filter cap that you can pull out, remove a plug from and drain off any water in the filter before you remove the filter and get your floor wet, so take a look for this before you remove the filter and get soaked.

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Zanussi ZWF1437W E23


E23 indicates Drain pump faulty; Wiring faulty; PCB faulty.

The service information also says it should stop with the door open.



Unplug the appliance and manually remove the water via the filter or front drain point if it's fitted.

Drain it into a shallow dish, tighten the filter when you need to stop the water (or plug the hose if draining via a hose) while you empty the container.



Once empty, try the door again.

Take the filter out and clean out any debris in it.

Plug the appliance in and put the machine on a drain programe.

Listen/look at the open filter to check that the drain pump is running.


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