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Friedrich air conditioner has EP error code - Friedrich Heating & Cooling

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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koolbreezes
  • 540 Answers

SOURCE: Friedrich window air conditioner

The inside unit has the control power which tells everything what to do.Check power to the unit,(breaker), check to see if the fan door is on tight--- then, lAST but not least, check the fuse on the circuit board! Thank-you-very-much!

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

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SOURCE: REMOTE CONTROL

Start here:

http://www.friedrich.com/

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

  • 1175 Answers

SOURCE: what does the code E9 mean,on a friedrich air

Go to http://www.friedrich.com/ and browse this site. You should look at the top for "Support and Downloads." There are lots of manuals there.

Good luck and hope this gets it for you.

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: EP Message - no cool air on a GE Air Conditioner

I just posted this on another one, but try unplugging it and pushing the reset buttons on the side of the plug. It worked to fix mine so far...

Posted on Oct 19, 2009

mcdevito75
  • 1970 Answers

SOURCE: Friedrich KStar KQ06J10 Air Conditioner not Cooling?

mcdevito75 here, Put the fan on and wait 3 minutes, NOW turn to low cool and place temp to 0 degrees or 1/2 thru the blue section of the cooling knob. Unit should work fine. type in online the unit name plus.com for any other assistance manuals, etc.

Posted on Jun 24, 2010

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I have a Friedrich QuietMaster Electronic SS12J30D Air Conditioner and I got an E9 error, what does it mean?


E9 is the code for heat pump failure. If you can locate your reset button, reset the unit. If it doesn't work, you might want to consider getting another unit

Aug 08, 2016 | Friedrich Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

What does ep mean on friedrich home air conditioners


There are many questions about the E-1 error code that seems to pop up on many of the window air conditioning units. The problem is that there are a number of different meanings to this code depending on the brand of air conditioner that you have.

For many window air conditioners this code is simply a reminder to clean the air filter. After like 750 hours of run time this code pops up and you have to clean the filter and then reset the unit before it will work again. To reset the code you need to simply unplug the unit and then plug it back in again. On other units you need to hold down the power button while you reenergize the air conditioner.

On another make of window air conditioner you need to push the "fan" button twice and then the "mode" button once to reset this code. Still another person found that the circuit boards where going bad and they had to replace them to get the unit to work.

The best and most reliable way to find out how to reset the code is to go the website of the company that manufactured your air conditioning unit and download their manual directly from the site. This manual will give you the sequence needed to get the code reset. I do realize that some companies do not make these manuals available to download. In that case the best thing is to call the customer service number and see if they have a technical support number or service that you can talk to directly. They will be able to help you with your problem.

The other problem that this code seems to come from is the thermistor sensing too cold of temperatures on the coil. This can be caused by the coil being so dirty that not enough air is going through, the fan going bad and not moving enough air, or just a faulty thermistor.

If the fan does not seem to be running at full speed anymore or your unit has been run with a very dirty air filter, or no air filter then you may need to clean the coil. This can be washed out using a spray bottle and some careful cleaning of the fins so you do not bend them. A mild soap and water solution followed by clear water will often do the trick there.

You can see now that this code has many and varied solutions. There is no one exact solution to the E-1 code. You will need to do some checking and research to figure out which of the problems you have and how is the best way to remedy that problem.

Jul 27, 2014 | Friedrich Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Friedrich cp24g30a code of ch 34


Friedrich Room Air Conditioner Service & Parts Manual 2014-2015
CP15 & CP18 & CP24
ERROR CODE
CH34 High Pressure Error Fault Codes -- As high pressure,comp off over 10 times in 1 hour

UPDATE: 9/24/17 -- So, after multiple plot twists with the particular AC that kept giving us this error message and shutting off, we finally got to the bottom of the situation. This model is supposed to be a WINDOW sleeve and WALL sleeve installed capable AC. When it failed, we had it installed in a wall sleeve (proper size), but apparrently it was not vented properly. (Of course, we did not know that for nearly 4 years.) To keep this story clear, I am going to refer to two ACs: "Bob AC" the unit with heat that gave us these error messages and "Stanley AC" the unit without heat that was essentially the same unit that did not give these messages.

When we first bought and installed "BOB AC", it failed within 1 month --and out of desperation, we pulled it from its wall sleeve and put it in a different location in our office but this time it went into in a window sleeve. We put "Stanley AC" which was in another location in our office in a window sleeve into "Bob AC's" wall sleeve.

Also for clarity, we have 4 of these ACs in our offices, but this "BOB AC" when it failed was brand new and als was the only one that also has HEAT. That said, with respect to BTU and dimensions, all our ACs are the same.

So when we moved "Stanley AC" into "Bob's" wall sleeve, it fit and worked and did not give us that same error message and "worked", but it also did not really cool our showroom. Also, what would happen is that the Stanley ACs would just up and die one day. (Yes that means there was more than 1 Stanley that we killed.) So during the hottest week in the summer of 2017, our latest "Stanley AC", the CP24g30 that we put 2 years ago in that same wall sleeve where "BOB AC" used to be - suddenly up and died. Because "BOB AC" had been working for the past two years amazingly well in the window sleeve we moved it to after it failed in the original wall sleeve, I decided to moved "BOB AC" back into the wall sleeve where it originally failed. And, as you might expect -- "BOB AC" failed within 2 hours of installation.

Now, we had all sorts of theories as to why the Bob and Stanley ACs failed. One of my team was certain the failure was caused from the AC being in direct sunlight. I didn't agree, but when "BOB AC" was in the window sleeve and working perfectly -- it was even a bit too cold in the zone he was working, the unit was out of direct sunlight. (FYI - I did find info on direct sunlight -- it will impair an AC's efficiency, but it should not cause this failure.)

A friend who is an engineer came to examine the situation and he believed that the problem was based on our neighbor building having a large HVAC pointing its exhaust directly at our AC's vent. His theory was that the hot exhaust was overpowering our AC's ability to vent, and he told us to install a sheetmetal barrier over the back of our AC's sleeve to block the other buildings exhaust from going into our AC. Ironically this sheetmetal solution may have been the reason that "Stanley AC" died.

Anyhow since Stanley AC never really cooled our showroom even after we installed the barrier my friend recommended, I kept researching what might be the problem. Finally after having a strange conversation with an AC specialist who insisted that I was using a window AC in a wall which is a "no-no", I went back to research the install instructions to verify that I was not crazy. And, there in the install instructions I found the answers.

First off, the unit IS both a window and wall AC -- so I was not just forcing a square peg into a round hole. But, for any unit of large capacity that is going to be put through a wall, the key issue for the unit is going to be about ventilation. Why does the capacity matter? It matters because some lower capacity models have been designed to vent ONLy thru the rear of the AC. (BTW those models are very low BTU like 14k and are very expensive like $1000. Our unit is 24k and cost roughly $800.)

Anyhow in re-reading the installation instructions (which I never bothered to read because I had the unit installed by "experts") it talked about wall thickness and how much of the AC needed to be exposed for proper venting. The answer BTW is that at least 14" should be venting outside of the wall.

As a point of reference, when "BOB AC" was installed in the window sleeve were it worked PERFECTLY -- only 3" of the face of the AC was inside the room and the remaining 23" of sleeve and AC were outside the window...but when both "Bob and Stanley AC" were installed in the Wall sleeve where Bob almost immediately failed and Stanley worked (poorly) until he died, it was very different -- probably 9" inside the showroom, then about 9" of wall, and then about 6" of the back-end of the AC extending out of the wall sleeve outside the building.

Essentially and bottom line, we had installed the sleeve incorrectly and the ACs were baking themselves and then dying. In other words, they were NOT venting properly at all.

So, after a lot of debate with my trusted handyman, we pulled the AC out and he wrestled with the sleeve and pulled it out of the wall and additional 9 inches. Now 14" of the wall sleeve are exposed to air out of the back of the building. We reinserted the AC -- and now: 1) NO MORE ERROR MESSAGES; 2) NO MORE INSTANT SHUTOFF and even more amazingly - -3) "Bob AC" is working PERFECTLY and the room is now actually COOLED by Bob. (Remember, when we had "Stanley AC" in the same spot, while it did not fail the same way or as quickly -- it also did not cool the room. Had we known we were not venting it correctly, poor Stanley might have lived a long, happy life and kept us cool. )

Hope this long story helps others. Good luck.

Jul 11, 2014 | Friedrich Chill CP24G30A 23500 BTU Window...

1 Answer

Ge air conditioner error code ep


GE EP code is main compressor sensor.
Check damage to the temperature sensor
Sensor Cable left side yellow.

My airco got visited by a rat and damaged the wiring.
Cut it rejoined and code 32 changed into temperature.
You need the sensor. Just joining the cables will issue 99 and it will cut off and change into 32
You need a working sensor.

Apr 23, 2013 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My ge AEW18DMG1 window unit shows an error code EP. What does it mean?


GE EP code is main compressor sensor.
Check damage to the temperature sensor
Sensor Cable left side yellow.

My airco got visited by a rat and damaged the wiring.
Cut it rejoined and code 32 changed into temperature.
You need the sensor. Just joining the cables will issue 99 and it will cut off and change into 32
You need a working sensor.

Jun 01, 2012 | GE Air Conditioner Main PCB - WJ26X10241

1 Answer

I get an error code EP on my GE room Air conditioner. what does this mean? i did what someone suggested and unplugged it; replugged it and reset it; still did not work,.


GE EP code is main compressor sensor.
Check damage to the temperature sensor
Sensor Cable left side yellow.

My airco got visited by a rat and damaged the wiring.
Cut it rejoined and code 32 changed into temperature.
You need the sensor. Just joining the cables will issue 99 and it will cut off and change into 32
You need a working sensor.

Sep 10, 2010 | GE AJCQ08ACB Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I have an GE air conditioner with ''EP error code, and compressor stops.


GE EP code is main compressor sensor.
Check damage to the temperature sensor
Sensor Cable left side yellow.

My airco got visited by a rat and damaged the wiring.
Cut it rejoined and code 32 changed into temperature.
You need the sensor. Just joining the cables will issue 99 and it will cut off and change into 32
You need a working sensor.

Jul 01, 2010 | GE Heating & Cooling

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