Question about Dayton Water Heaters
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Posted on Nov 27, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The top button is connected to the top heater element which is likely shorting out. Drain the tank below the element that the thermostat is attached to. Remove and replace the element
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
Disconnect the electric for the unit. Disconnect the two wires from the two eliments. Place a battery type test light or Ohm meter is more conclusive if you have one, Light should light when placing the two test leads to the two eliment contacts(while they are disconnect for the water heater wiring) should be dim but glowing. If no light the the eliment is open. If an Ohm meter the Wattage is written on the heater the heater. E=IR P=IE. It should work out to about 1200 -1400 ohms if 220 volt heater. If the light is bright just as if you had put the two test leads together,then you can say that the eliment is likely shorted. Either no light or a Very bright light requires the eliment to be changed. To check the thermostats, Raise the ajustment one one at a time, until it clicks. Listen for the heater to be heating. Turn that one back down and do the other one the same way. I hope I have been clear enough. About one gallon of water should be drained for the bottom of the tank once a year along with checking the preasure/tempature safety relief valve by operating it ,using the leaver,for a few moments as preventive maintenance.
Posted on Feb 11, 2009
If you don't have current, 0v from terminal to terminal, then you don't have voltage to the elements. Replace the thermostat but check that you have 220v to the thermostat. It is possible that your breakers to the unit are either bad or tripped.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
There should be a flip flop circuit in your heater that switches between the two heaters. I don't think they both heat at the same time. Check the rating on the indivitual heat element then compare that with the data printed on the heater RE: maximum WATT rating.
Now then, what did you miss - I'm thinking you missed the ohm reading. You measured 220 Volts but you did not check to see if the element is burned out or not. Move your meter to OHM and take a measurement with the power turned off. If the reading is "open" the element is buned out. If you get some reading beside 'open' the element is probably able to carry current.
Have you drained the sediment from your heater recently?
All the way up is a dangerous setting by the way. I suspect you know this.
Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com
Posted on Feb 19, 2010
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