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John deere gator 825i starting problem

Motor will crank but not start. Gator is a 2011. It is not the battery. Put new plugs and fuel filter in and air filter.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 86 Answers

SOURCE: lawn tractor shuts off after 20 minutes of running

How old is your ? Sounds like ignition problem,If your engine is older you would have points when the points are bad they can stick together and will result in shutdown after unit cools a little it will restart !

Posted on May 09, 2009

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SOURCE: john deere 420 trouble starting getting gas and

The engine needs air, so be sure the air filter is clean. If it is not, replace it.

The engine needs spark. Replace the spark plug and be sure that the battery has a complete charge.

The engine needs good fuel so be sure the gas is newly purchased, not gas that has been sitting around for months.

Posted on May 19, 2009

  • 133 Answers

SOURCE: I have John Deere GX345. It does not start

Look for a small silver box with 1 wire on it mounted to the motor. It is a temp sensor and will keep it from firing...Just had to replace mine...

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: John Deere Gator XUV 2008 oil in gas

I know exactly the problem. I work for a John Deere dealership and have seen this problem before. It is called short-tripping. When a machine is first started, gas does leak into the cylinder and crankcase past the rings--normal--simulates leaving the choke on too long with a carburetor engine.. As the engine temperature rises, the gas in the oil is burned off and there really isn't a problem. When you take short trips or do not let the engine run to get it up to temperature, the gas in the crankcase does not get burned off and will accumulate over time. Make sure the machine is getting up to operating temperature and this could take up to 20 minutes if the ambient air temp is low. Feel free to e-mail at ericf@greensouth.com with further questions

Posted on Dec 16, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: John Deere will not start.

If you have gas running down to the carberator ( take the fuel line off and make sure there is gas running to it or there may be a screen or filter plugged by the tank or on the way to the carb) if there is gas there the problem lies in the carb itself. If you have some mechanical ability you should be all right as it is not rocket science. If you are comfortable with taking the carb apart the first thing i would check is the needle vavle. With the carb apart you will see a big brass looking thing this is the float, right above that is the neddle valve, that is the first place they seem to stick on me. Move the float up and down if the neddle above it doesn't move or sticks there is your problem. Spray it with carb cleaner and see if it moves freely. You may have to dismantle the carb to get it to work freely. If it won't buy a carb kit and install all the new gaskets needle valves and jets ( this is a very good ideal any how) Also make sure any little ports in the carb are open ( in the bottom of the carb there may be tiny little holes that are plugged) find a very small wire to clean them with and also make sure when you are done you can spray carb cleaner thru them. This is why they have a small straw on the can with it ( watch your eyes and wear safety glasses as you never know where it will spray out from) That stuff will dry your skin out fast so don't get it in your eyes and you may want to wear rubber gloves. Also be very careful when putting back together as there are little pieces that like to slide around and fall out or may get bent even worse you don't want them in your motor. Also try to count every screw you turn as these are jets and you will want to put them back to the place they were set at cause it's a pain to get them set right by adjusting them later. Do not force anything putting it back as you may bend the jets or float and you will have to take it apart again and replace them as well. Take your time and be patient and you will be just fine

Posted on May 08, 2010

Testimonial: "thanks...you gave me encouragement to give it a try. I took off the shroud, air cleaner box and couldn't take off the carb as there are no heads on the four bolts that hold it on. Looks like it was designed not to be removed? I took off an inspection plate on top of the carb and cleaned all of the channels and ports within with carb cleaner and compressed air...still no gas flowing thru carb...unless I force with compressed air. Any other thoughts? It is a twin cylinder OHV B/S. Thank you. "

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