Question about Whirlpool Dryers
DON'T KNOW WIRING SYSTEM
Their are basically 2 circuits in the dryer. The motor circuit and the heater circuit.You didn't mention anything about it not working so the motor circuit which include the fuse is fine.The motor is 120 volts and runs on the black side and the white common. The heater works on the red and the black side and requires 240 volts. First thing to check is if you have 240 volts going into the machine between red and black on the power terminal. You will notice the heater had red wires connected to it. Them red wires also run through a few safety limits mounted on the heater chamber. If any of them limits is open you will have no heat. If all of the limits are fine and the heater is fine and you have 240 power to the dryer and you still ain't got heat, then it is a strong possibility your timer is bad. Remove the fat heavy wire on the timer and check for continuity between that terminal and all other terminals on the timer, in all cycles. If you cannot get a reading then you have a bad timer.
Here is my home video of a dryer with a heat problem:
Posted on Nov 27, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
before you replace the heater
most common cause of heating failure is burn out of the thermal cut-out.
(also called thermal fuse, overtemp cutout and probably half a dozen other names)
These are a small screw on device on the exhaust duct, when exhaust air reaches too high a temperature, like a blockage, they fail before a fire.
examin the exhaust duct inside the dryer for devices that look like this or like this with wires connected to the terminals. there may be 2(hi lo), test with a ohmmeter -conductivity good, no conductivity replace.
there are only a few different kinds the local parts guy will have them all. take the dud one for him to match.
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
Sounds like you have a broken drum belt.
If you have to replace your drive belt and if you have a front loading machine.
First you will need to unplug your dryer from the electric.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley.
While you have the drum out, I would also recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
If the belt is not broken, then I would check to see if the timer switch is working properly, if not then you may need to replace it.
I hope this helps
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
The thermal cut-off , which is the small t-stat looking piece located at the top of the element housing ( on vertical mount elements ) or the far front of the element housing ( on horizontal mount elements ) , is usually the cause for no heat .
Posted on Aug 02, 2010
The thermal fuse is likely blown. Disconnect power then remove the rear panel to access the thermal fuse on the blower housing.
Once the panel is off, bypass the thermal fuse by joining the wires together then insulate them properly. Reconnect power and start the dryer. The thermal fuse is indeed blown if the dryer starts. Replace it including the cycling thermostat.
Posted on Oct 15, 2010
There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...
The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...
Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...
Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning
Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start
Posted on Apr 29, 2011
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