Question about Compaq Presario SR5712F (SR5712F-B) 19 in. PC Desktop

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Replace motherboard i need to know if i put all the connections in the right place. need pictures.

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  • Compaq Master
  • 5,660 Answers

Rob, Rob, Rob.............if I told you a thousand times, I............

Oh.......... where was I?

1) Power cables from Power Supply to motherboard:

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01237538&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&product=3878557

A) 24-pin ATX main power cable;

Looking at the motherboard view the Right side. To the right of the Blue 39-pin IDE connector, is the 24-pin ATX main power cable connector, on the motherboard.

This is a general example of a 24-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

The power cable connector has a Lock on one side, and the motherboard connector has a matching Lock Tab.
When the power cable is deemed to be installed Correctly, and Properly; the Lock's hooked end is over the Lock Tab.

[Note* Color of connectors does NOT matter ]

B) 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable;

The processor socket is white in color. Around it is the black mounting ring.
The 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable connector on the motherboard, is to the Left/Bottom corner, of that black mounting ring.

Square, whitish (Opaque), and 4 socket holes.
This is a general example of a 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable; and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

2) Peripheral power cables from Power Supply;

A) The Harddrive is a SATA unit. Uses a SATA power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata

B) The optical drive/s (CD/DVD drive) are also SATA units. They use a SATA power cable.

A SATA power cable's connector has 15 contact pins. Between it, and the SATA data cable, it has the longer connector.

Peripheral Data Cables;

This is a general example of a SATA data cable, it's connector, and a SATA connector on the motherboard,
(Note* Color does NOT matter),

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:SATA_ports.jpg

Here you can see the L-shaped opening of the connector, and matching L-shaped tab on the motherboard connector.

Most SATA power cable connectors, and SATA data cable connectors, have a lock. All you see is a 'bulb' type affair on top of the connector, that you squeeze down with a thumb tip.
Depress to remove, depress to install.

A 90 degree elbow connector for the SATA data cable, is used on the Harddrive, and optical drive. The straight connector end of the cable, plugs into the motherboard.

There are two SATA connectors on the motherboard. One White, one Black. One of them should have a SATA1 next to it.
(Or one will at least have SATA2 next to it)

SATA 1 connector is for the Harddrive. SATA 2 connector is for the optical drive.
The beauty of SATA is though, you can connect any SATA device, to any SATA connector on the motherboard; and BIOS will find it.

So it really doesn't matter what you plugged in where, as far as those two SATA headers are concerned.

3) Processor Fan cable, System Fan cable (Computer case fan);

Going back to the HP Support page above, and Motherboard Specifications; scroll down the list.
Click on the + sign to the left of the blue - Motherboard layout

Below the ATX12V1 connector is the System Fan connector.
(SYS_FAN)
This is where the computer case fan connects.
(ATX12V1 connector, is the 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable, connector)

Above the Ram Memory slots, and a little to the right; is the Processor Fan connector. Power to the fan. (CPU_FAN)

4) Front Panel audio connector, optical drive audio connector, Front Panel USB connectors;

Bottom edge of motherboard, from Left to Right;

Yellow connector is AUDIO1. Front Panel audio.
White connector is ATX_IN
For the audio cable from the optical drive.

Black connector (HD_AUDIO) is also for the Front Panel audio.

Don't know how they have the Front Panel audio, hooked up.
YOU will. The cable connectors to them are different from each other.

Front Panel USB connectors;
Further to the right are two white connectors. EACH one can support TWO USB ports.
One should be for the two USB ports in the Front Panel.
The other will go to a Card Reader in the Front Panel.

All the way to the right corner is the Front Panel header.
This is where the main wires from the Front Panel go.

Power On switch, Power On LED (light), and Harddrive activity LED (light)
The cable, and connector should match that 9-pin header.
If not here is an HP 9-pin Front Panel header - pinout,

http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Desktop-Hardware/Getting-a-new-case-i-need-Front-Panel-pinout/td-p/842897

Scroll down to the photo, and pinout. (Dave G)

Believe that is it.

For additional questions, or to have me clarify anything I have stated above, please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

(Ya know I was jus kiddin' above, right?..............

Rob?...................................................................Rob?)

Posted on Nov 27, 2012

  • 14 more comments 
  • Rob Gorman
    Rob Gorman Nov 27, 2012

    i found your solutions very graphic and helpful. I think I have everything in the proper place. But my original problem persists. I cannot get my monitor to work. The monitor works on other computers. Any solution on the graphics problem? changing the mobo did not cure the problem

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Nov 29, 2012

    I believe the problem is, and was; the Power Supply. I base it on this; 1) The main factors for computer failure is; the computer is dirty inside, and Power Supply failure. When testing a problem with a desktop computer, the power is checked First. Then the diagnosis goes on. (Most people think motherboard; Nope. I have a shop filled with computers with a bad Power Supply. Little cleaning, new Power Supply, and we're off, and running) Your monitor isn't working, because there is no graphics signal getting to it. You have ruled out the monitor, and monitor cable. Logic dictates checking whether the graphics chipset, is good on the motherboard. Integated graphics? Use a graphics card. Graphics card? Replace. However experience dictates ALWAYS check power first. But Joe, LED lights are lit, and fans spin? Means NOTHING. A) If ALL of the LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power. B) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power. C) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts of power. Just depends on what Processor it is. AMD Athlon X2 4450e?http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_AMD... Up To 45 Watts of power. Believe Power Supply has weak voltage power rail. Could I be wrong? YES. This is why the power supply voltages should be checked with a multimeter, before you spend your hard earned money. An economical multimeter is about $5 to $12, and I can guide you step, by step. (Manufacturer name, and model number of multimeter would help) OR, do you have a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; that you can borrow for a test unit? Also have to add; Have you been following Anti-Static Precautions? Plus that motherboard may be no good. (Yeah, I know. Just a 'ray of sunshine') Awaiting reply, joecoolvette

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Nov 29, 2012

    WhErE are my manners? Thank you Rob Gorman for the rating!

  • Rob Gorman
    Rob Gorman Nov 29, 2012

    thanks joecoolvette, I am in the process of learning how to check the Processor.power supply is good.how do i check if graphics chipset

  • Rob Gorman
    Rob Gorman Nov 29, 2012

    is woking. do you have any more answers. you know your stuff.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Nov 29, 2012

    "You know your stuff". We'll see Rib, lol! So far its joecoolvette = 0. All three main voltages proved to be OK? 3.3 Volts DC, 5 Volts DC, and 12 Volts DC? I also need to know you have been following Anti-Static Precautions. The Processor is the most susceptible hardware component to Static Shock. Check Processor? You will need a computer that is operational, and has a Socket AM2 processor socket. Otherwise you are just checking if Thermal Paste is correctly applied, and finned Heatsink isw setting flat on top of Processor. Know this; IF you are using a thermal paste that has real silver in it, (Artic Silver 5 is one), DO NOT apply too much. Silver is an excellent conductor of electricity, as well as heat. Put too much on top of the Processor, and when the Processor reaches operating temperature, the excess will ooze off. Goes down on the pins of the Processor, and any exposed solder joints. Poof! Processor/motherboard be gone! (Like bad magic) The finned Heatsink MUST sit flat on top of the Processor. Motherboard in hand, looking across it, there should be NO daylight showing in-between the Processor, and Heatsink. Yes, just in case. You NEED to use Thermal Paste. Checking graphics on motherboard. As I stated above, if you are using Integrated Graphics, then plug in a graphics card to check. Integrated graphics is the monitor plugging into the motherboard I/O area, for easy explanation. The Input/Output area is where the Keyboard, Mouse, Audio jacks, etc, are located on the back of the computer. Graphics card is independant, plugs into the black PCI Express x16 slot, on the motherboard. (PCI Express graphics card) Or a PCI graphics card into one of the white PCI slots. Power unplugged, Anti-Static Precautions followed, the graphics card is physically installed. Monitor cable now goes to graphics card. Graphics will be cr@ppy, until drivers are installed; BUT graphics will show. That is the main part. The starting part. (You obviously can't install drivers if you can't see graphics on the monitor. But using the graphics card without drivers installed yet, will show a 'Fred Flintstones' type of graphics. Looks kiddish. Doesn't matter, at least graphics are showing now. This can be taken care off by installing drivers)

  • Rob Gorman
    Rob Gorman Nov 29, 2012

    hi joe, thanks for letting me know about the thermal paste. i did not put any on when i moved it to the new board. i thought that getting a new processor may be the next step, but maybe i should go with a video card. what would you suggest?

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Nov 29, 2012

    Cr@p I ha-te ticker tape format. Sorry about slandering your name! Didn't even see that until I posted! (Great way to turn a persons mind off, when you are trying to explain something to them. Misspell their name. Sorry about that!) To go on with the above. If you HAVE to use a graphics card, that means the Integrated Graphics on the motherboard is no good. Which means the motherboard is no good, and needs to go back. I can't believe I haven't posted about Ram Memory. Make sure all ram memory modules are plugged in tightly. Even if thewy look to be plugged in tight; and the Locks are in place, remove all modules, reinstall. You can't see by eye if one is loose. Removing/reinstalling, assures you it/they are. I would also clean the gold plated contacts on the Ram Memory module/s ('Stick'), with a pencil eraser. Use air to remove the eraser dust, reinstall. The motherboard is mounted to a Support Plate. The Support Plate can be a separate metal plate, or is part of the computer case. Mounting of the motherboard to Support Plate is done, by plastic Spacers, or metal Standoff's. (Hex shaped, threaded on one end, threaded hole on the other end) IF, a metal Standoff is on the Support Plate, and IF it does not match up to a motherboard mounting hole; it can touch exposed solder joints on the bottom of the motherboard, and short the motherboard out. Usually removing the motherboard, and removing the Standoff, will result in the motherboard working OK. That motherboard isn't new, unless it is N.O.S. New/Old Stock. Means it has had plenty of chances to be Static shocked, by someone who doesn't know what they're doing. They could have also performed a BIOS update, and the update was too new, and not compatible; or power may have went off in the middle, and interrupted BIOS update. (Which turned the motherboard to cr@p) Why was the motherboard replaced? Was there a lightning strike nearby? Utility line construction, and the 'pole jockeys' made a mistake. (Journeyman lineman replaces line pole transformer, let's say. Trimmer capacitor isn't set correct. Voltage to YOUR house is now 164 volts, instead of being 120 Volts (AC), as needed. Poof goes the computer! (They can get away with that. I know I was a journeyman lineman. Su-cks. Power for a 120 Volt AC installation, can be from 108 Volts AC to 127 Volts AC) [Japan? 100 Volts AC, but not whole country. Europe - 240 Volts AC. USA - 120 Volts AC. Australia - 240 Volts AC) Means your Processor, Ram Memory, harddrive, and graphics card IF used, could be FRIED out. Besides the motherboard. Tried the harddrive as a Slave unit on another computer? Just to see if it works? You can look at your personal info. OK, awaiting reply. Post about the Anti-Static Precaution thing, especially.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Nov 29, 2012

    I knew I would forget something; If the motherboard mounting holes have metal rings around them, rule of thumb is NO fiber washers are used. This is how the motherboard gets it's Ground from the computer case. (Computer case gets it's Ground from Power Supply) IF the motherboard mounting holes do Not have a metal ring, fiber washers are used. One on each side of hole)

  • Rob Gorman
    Rob Gorman Nov 29, 2012

    i replaced motherboard because hp support told me that you can't replace the vga port. it is integrated on the board. It has not helped. I still have the no signal to the monitor. I can put the old board back in, not a problem. and I do use the bracelet when working inside the case. I generate a lot of static just walking across the room. the board looks good everything matches and the dealer said everything was checked before shipping. I have checked all sockets, ports and cards/sticks. nothing appears loose. I guess a new tower is in the future. I can slave my hard drive to the new tower. I hope i can still get windows 7. I have no experience with 8 yet.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Nov 30, 2012

    !O_O! What statement was made to HP Support, as to why the computer wasn't working, or did thet assume on their own, "Motherboard replacement is what you need."..? Again....how do you know the Power Supply is good? What about the mounting to the Support Plate? What about the Thermal Paste? Need these answers also. What happened in the beginning? You came home, etc, and tried to turn the computer on, and............? Was the computer on the whole time you were gone, and when you returned.....? Does the Harddrive activity LED (Red) blink after you press the Power On button? Lastly, I don't care about that fella's assurance. Could still be a bad motherboard, new or not.

  • Rob Gorman
    Rob Gorman Nov 30, 2012

    Joe you really do know your stuff. so now i feel like an idiot for wasting money on a new/used board. the com was shutdown overnight. then i tried to start it the monitor would not get a signal. i called hp support but the warranty ran out last year. they said a qualified technician would need to replace the motherboard because the vga is integrated and a video card would not work. I don't know why, the spec's say it will. I really wish that I had met you first. I only have an associates degree in computers and in the hardware part, which I loved doing, never mentioned thermal paste. I will get some before I attempt to turn on the machine again. I just moved to a new house so my recovery discs are in a box marked computer somewhere. When I find them I will give that a try. The boot menu does not have a safe option. I find that odd. All lights work after I installed the cpu from the old board. I don't get any beeps either.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Nov 30, 2012

    BIOS should come up. That is, the BIOS Setup utility. Really starting to make me wonder; what condition are the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard? Heck, I've hit every part so far! lol! I get; the launch date for the computer was 11/04/09. Means to me that mobo you got is also 3 years old. Been sittin' on a shelf for 3 years(?) Electrolytic Capacitors need a trickle charge. Keeps the Electrolytic paste in good shape, inside the capacitor. I'll try to make it short; The capacitors used on your motherboard are Electrolytic Capacitors. More specifically Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors. I'm sure you know a capacitor slowly stores a charge up, then releases it all at once. Think of a large swimming pool being filled slowly by a garden hose, then one wall of the pool is taken down all at once. There are still some cameras that use capacitors in their flash units. 'Caps', are used as Voltage Regulators, or Filters. The ones used as voltage regulators are in the Motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit,http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/6... Part of what the motherboard voltage regulator circuit does, is to regulate voltage for the Processor. The Processor must have a steady, 'clean', supply of voltage; and it must be kept within the tight voltage tolerance range, for the Processor. Cannot be too little, or too much; or BIOS will turn the Processor off. (BIOS senses the Negative value is not correct. Doesn't go by the Positive voltage)http://capacitorlab.com/visible-failures... The basic construction of a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor; The outside case is similar to a 'Coca-Cola' aluminum can, with the top, and bottom cut out. The top has a flat thin round disk, with a lK or X shape etched partway into it. It is the Vent Cover. The bottom is sealed also with a flat disk, but not of aluminum, instead synthetic rubber. The leads of the capacitor poke through it. It is the Bung. Inside are three strips; One is a foil thin strip of aluminum metal. It has the Positive lead connected to it, and is the Conducting Strip. The second strip is also aluminum foil, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it. It has the Negative lead connected to it, and is the Non-Conducting Strip. The last strip is a paper-like material, and is soaked with Electrolytic Paste. This strip is laid in-between the two metal strips, and all three are rolled up tightly. There are several layers of this construction, inside. The Positive, and Negative leads poke through the Bung, at the bottom. When an Electrolytic Capacitor goes bad, the paste inside develops a gas. Hydrogen Gas. The gas expands inside the capacitor's case, and starts pushing Electrolytic Paste out. The etched shape of the Vent Cover pops open, and/or one side of the rubber-like Bung pushes out; and Electrolytic Paste starts oozing out. So much paste loss, and the capacitor operates at a weakened state. Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails. However, Electrolytic Capacitor's paste can also dry up inside, and show no outward visual signs.http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/2... http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/...

  • Rob Gorman
    Rob Gorman Dec 04, 2012

    joe have you ever heard about "changing the product key

  • Rob Gorman
    Rob Gorman Dec 04, 2012

    after replacing the motherboard?

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Dec 04, 2012

    Yes. Why? Because when Windows is installed on a computer is assigns hash values, to certain major hardware components. Think of them as serial numbers, but no personal information attached. Major hardware components such as the Processor, Motherboard; (More specifically, the motherboard chipset, and BIOS program), Harddrive, and graphics chipset. Change any two of these components, and Windows will 'think' it is being stolen. Change a motherboard, and the red flag may go off. Microsoft User's License states, "One GENUINE copy of Windows per ONE computer". After replacing a motherboard hopefully the Windows Activation screen comes up. After you click on Activate Now, (If memory serves...or it's Activate your copy of Windows), another screen will come up. Options are offered. One option is to call Microsoft on a toll free phone number. This is the one I use, as I like to speak to a real person; and IF you make a mistake online, there is no one to talk to about it. After you click on Call Microsoft there is another screen that comes up. On this screen are 6 blocks with 6 letter/numbers in them. There are 6 empty blocks below. The representative will ask you what you wish to do. Activate is your reply. You will then be asked to clearly read off the 6 letter/numbers in the first box. Then the 2nd box, and through to the 6th box. Make SURE the rep understands you CLEARLY. When done the rep will state, "Hold on", (What happened to, "Just a minute please"?) After a small period of silence the rep will come back, and read off a series of letter/numbers to you. Put your mouse cursor in the first box, and left-click once. Type the letter/numbers. After the 6th letter number goes in, the mouse cursor automatically jumps to the second box. Same thing happens again when you reach the 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th box. 36 letter/numbers in all. Make SURE you understand EACH set of 6 letter/numbers the rep states. IF NOT politely stop the rep, and have them repeat. For ANY of the 6 boxes, or for ALL of the 6 boxes, if you wish. When you are finished with the 6th box, there is a period of silence. This is because you are supposed to know, to click on Activate, at the bottom right of the screen. Once you have clicked on Activate, you're done! However now you have a new Product Key. The old one in the holographic sticker on your computer, no longer applies.

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  • Expert
  • 119 Answers

This link will take you to the specifications page for your mother board. On that page you will find an explanation and diagram of your board and cables.

Posted on Nov 27, 2012

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rwoods142
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SOURCE: replace wires to sockets?

This link will take you to the specifications page for your mother board. On that page you will find an explanation and diagram of your board and cables.

Posted on Nov 27, 2012

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