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Re: Light is too poor on Rugby Field - Blurred players
Increase your ISO speed. The default is AUTO, which usually uses between 50 and 100. If you manually increase it (using the FUNC menu) to 400, it will increase the shutter speed. The tradeoff is that your pictures will have more 'noise'. But they will not be (or will be less) blurry.
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If its just how to change the settings on your camera then your manual
will tell you how. If you mean how changing these settings effects the
final outcome of your photograph then I can recommend Langfords
Starting Photography book which will explain all you need to know
Its best to keep your ISO as low as possible in order to avoid noise in
your images, however night shoots need a higher ISO but a tripod is
recommended to avoid picture shake. Shutter speed
determines how long the camera shutter stays open letting let in.
Shutter speed is often shown as 1/125 or 1/15 for example and what this
actually means is that the shutter will stay open to let light in for
either 125th or 15th of a second. By changing how shutter speed is set
alters the final outcome of your image. Let's say you wanted to take a
photo of a waterfall and you wanted to freeze the action so that you
could see the waters movement clearly, then you would use a fast
shutter speed such as 1/500 or higher. However, instead if you wanted
the water to look blurred then you would use a slow shutter speed such
as 1/15 or lower.
Aperture which is also known as f numbers are often shown as F2.8 or F8 for example, and these can affect depth of field.
Depth of field determines just how much or how little of your final
image remains in focus. By choosing a high f number like F8 or higher
means that the majority of your final image will be in focus whereas, a
low f number like F2.8 or lower makes the foreground stay in focus and
the background will be blurred.
Hope this helps.....
If you are shooting in Auto mode with flash, this should solve your problem. Make sure you are not dictating any of the settings, i.e. choosing a longer shutter speed, a very small aperture setting, or a very low ISO (sensitivity) setting.
Typically the vibration warning icon will appear when the camera is trying to use a long shutter speed without flash in order to get the right exposure for a darker scene. Your outdoor (bright light) photos are probably OK.
In dim light with a point and shoot camera, you can have your choice between 1. blurry (using a relatively slow shutter speed), 2. dark (using a shorter shutter speed but no flash), or 3. a good photo with flash (which uses a medium shutter speed and added light from the flash)
"Depth Of Field" (or DOF) is the amount of distance both in front and behind the point of focus that is also in focus. If there is a very short distance or range of an area that is in focus, it is said to have a shallow depth of field. This shallow DOF is achieved by setting the aperture or "f stop" to the wider or lower number settings. The smallest f stop number will provide the shallowest DOF. The DOF will become broader ir deeper with each increasing f stop setting.
Shallow DOF settings are often used in portraits where the background is desired to be blurred. It is also used in macro (extreme close up) photography, and anywhere a blurred foreground / background is desired.
The down side of this is that the shutter speed will increase proportionately, to maintain a properly exposed image. If you are trying to convey a sense of motion - by allowing the subject to be blurred slightly - you'll have some trouble due to the fast shutter speed. Neutral density filters fixed to the lens can correct this. The other side of the coin is in an indoor and evening outdoor photography. If you're not using a flash, you'll likely have to be shooting more towards the "open end" of the lens (more towards the lower number aperture settings) which while allowing enough light for an good exposure - will also reduce the DOF. Some people or objects in front of and behind the focus point will not be a sharp as a result.
The best thing to do is experiment. set a number of object on a surface - 2', 3' 4' 5' and 6' away from the camera. A tripod or other solid surface can help a great deal. Set the camera up for a "normal" exposure in a full manual or Aperture Priority Mode of the middle object 4 feet away. Take a picture. Next, open the aperture (make the number smaller) and adjust the shutter (if in manual) to expose properly again. Take the picture. Keep doing this both BOTH directions for the aperture from the first "Normal" exposure. Compare the results to see exactly how the DOF changes. Tinker with shutter speeds - or don't change them. Notice that with each time you open the f stop, the shutter must speed up to compensate for more light entering the camera due to the wider aperture setting (and vice versa).
I hope I understood your question correctly and that this helped.
First of all you need a tripod to cut down on the movement . Next use the mode dail and select a nigt setting .
You can even use a shutter speed in Aperature Prioity .Ypu might want to use exposure comp .
This should work for you.
This is mainly due to the slow shutter speed selected by your CAM. in low light situations the cam chooses a slow shutter speed to expose the image adequately. Any shakes that may have caused during the shutter operation will cause the funny images.
use tripod or other kind of support to your camera while shootiing in low light (indoors) without flash.
First, try to get more light, particularly natural light (window); second, try using shutter priority (S mode), setting the shutter speed at not less than 1/50, faster if you are shooting motion/action (check the Properties of the blurred pictures that you've been getting in Camedia software - the shutter speeds are probably too slow because of the low light), and experiment with higher ISO settings (either 200 or Auto, not 400) though there's a trade-off in noise levels.
There is a well documented problem with the W1 (and its brother, the P100).
If you are shooting in good light, you will have no problem.
If you are shooting in low light or flash, you will encounter various degrees of blurred photos.
Unlike most cameras, the W1 has only two f-stops (f2.8 and f5.2). So the camera must select one or the other (nothing in between).
The firmware in the camera will try to select f5.2 as long as it can in low light. This results in a slow shutter speed. And with flash you usually end up with a shutter speed of 1/40th of a second.
A slow shutter speed is the cause of the blurred photos. If you can hold the camera perfectly still under low light conditins (and flash) you will get good photos. If you use the cameras manual mode and manually select a faster shutter speed you will get good photos.
It appears that Sony could fix the problem with a firmware change so that the camera made better use of the ISO settings along with the f-stop selections.
However, they have not done so.
You should not use the flash for these shots (unless you connect a powerful external flash), it won't help you at this distance. You should use the shutter priority mode and experiment with shutter speed (no flash) to get the best result - for sports action it should probably be faster than 1/100 sec. If the light is too low you may use higher ISO setting - 200 or 400 (though higher ISO will result in grainier images, it may be your only option for blur-free photos).