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Anonymous Posted on Nov 26, 2012

Ge profile artice refrigerator PSS25MGMBB is too cold

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 878 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 20, 2007

SOURCE: GE ARTIC PROFILE REFRIGERATOR....INTERMITTENT HEATING

Sarct, the question is, was the freezer side ok, if it was, I would suspect the damper not opening. If the freezer side was warm too, then I would suspect the evaporator thermistor not sending the signal to the board to terminate the defrost. Have the tech first check the continuity at connector J3. He should have 400ohms at J3-1 to J3-2 and the same at J3-3 to j3-4. If he doesn't get those readings have him check at the damper motor itself. If he doesn't have it there, replace the damper motor. If the damper motor passes all the checks then it's on to the evaporator thermistor. Have him check the resistance. At 5 degrees it should ohm at approx 36K ohms. The evap thermostat is redundant to the defrost operation. It's there as a back up in the event the evap thermistor fails to terminate the defrost. It's normally closed and will open at 140 degrees.

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Ron Buice

  • 161 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 17, 2008

SOURCE: ge profile buttom freezer cold refrigerator hot

First, I think it’s important to know that the Ref side has no cooling coils, it’s basically a box and the cold air in the freezer is blown over by a fan through a channel into the Ref side. This channel has a door which regulates how much cold air goes through. You probably have two control knobs in the Ref side, one controls the temp with numbers 1-9, 9 being the coldest. This temp control tells the compressor how long to run. The other control is for that little door and it may have letters A-E, E being the coldest. If you set it on E (coldest) then this will close that little door and keep most the cold air in the freezer.

Now, why is that cold air not getting over to the Ref side?
1. The little door is not open.
check your control setting. You should be able to feel air coming through the channel on the Ref side.

2. The fan in the freezer is not working.
You can hear this fan running when you open the freezer.

3. The coils on the freezer side are clogged with ice which won't let the fan circulate the air over to the Ref side.
This is a failure of the defrost system.

Ken Bledsoe

  • 306 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 05, 2009

SOURCE: GE profile bottom freezer refrigerator clicking

Your relay on the compressor is bad. It is called a PTC relay they are known to go out.

First be sure to unplug frig. Remove the cardboard cover that covers most backs of the units. Remove the plastic cover that is on the side of compressor. It is held on with a metal clip. Now you should be able to see the relay pry the relay straight off. note the wiring and position of relay. Only three prongs on compressor. Go to a parts house for appliance's and with your make and model number should be able to get a new one. Let me know if you need any more help. ken

Anonymous

  • 47 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 20, 2009

SOURCE: GE Profile Side-by-Side Refrigerator gets to too cold

turn the temp setting up to40 then check in a couple of hrs

Anonymous

  • 106 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 28, 2010

SOURCE: GE profile Refrigerator Model # PFS2251SBSS

You must be referring to the compressor. It's possible it could be your main control board on the back of the unit. Typically its these main boards that go out, as they control everything on your GE Refrig, pretty much. If its not the board, it could be your Relay on the compressor, or the compressor its self, however, in my experience, GE's compressors are pretty decent.

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GE ARTIC PROFILE REFRIGERATOR....INTERMITTENT HEATING

Sarct, the question is, was the freezer side ok, if it was, I would suspect the damper not opening. If the freezer side was warm too, then I would suspect the evaporator thermistor not sending the signal to the board to terminate the defrost. Have the tech first check the continuity at connector J3. He should have 400ohms at J3-1 to J3-2 and the same at J3-3 to j3-4. If he doesn't get those readings have him check at the damper motor itself. If he doesn't have it there, replace the damper motor. If the damper motor passes all the checks then it's on to the evaporator thermistor. Have him check the resistance. At 5 degrees it should ohm at approx 36K ohms. The evap thermostat is redundant to the defrost operation. It's there as a back up in the event the evap thermistor fails to terminate the defrost. It's normally closed and will open at 140 degrees.
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