Question about Refrigerators
Red light constantly on
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.
Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.
Posted on May 12, 2008
How to check
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Posted on Sep 02, 2009
Testimonial: "Really useful advise, with link to more help. Thank you"
servis frostfree fridge freezer not working after 2weeks holiday returned it had completely defrosted fridge & freezer power supply still connected. warning light on. done all the trouble shooting in the srvice manual still want go cold or freeze. light on in the fridge, no water in the rear tray & cleaned the overflow pipe??. Model No M0330-ALU 5yrs old. think it has 2 seperate thermostats, surely they wont both have gone at the same time???????
Posted on Oct 13, 2009
The heating element, located behind the back plate of the freezer, is probably not working. A failed heating element leads to a build up of ice around the evaporator coils in the rear of the freezer. If the back plate of the freezer is removed (ONLY DO THIS WITH THE APPLIANCE UNPLUGGED FROM THE POWER SUPPLY) and there is a large build up of ice around the evaporator coils then it's a fairly good indication that the heating element is not working. The heating element comes on periodically to defrost/de-ice the evaporator coils. Heating element is often activated by a small timer switch which turns the heater on for a set time every 24 hrs or so. Heating element may be open circuit or timer switch may not be operating. Most likely to be open circuit heating element.
Posted on Jan 01, 2010
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