Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top Load Washer
My washer only has small stream when spinning even though the tub is full ,last time it did this there was a sock in the drain between tub and inner core how can i get the front off to get to the prob
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like you may have lost your basket drive and clutch assembly. This is a pretty involved job to replace for sure, and requires you to remove the inner basket, drop the transmission, etc. Does the unit make any wierd noises, like popping or grinding? Does it agitate ok in wash? I would bet almost for sure that its that basket drive and attached sub-pack thats went bad. If you want to try and tackle this yourself, let me know, and will get you directions to do so. Good Luck!!!!
Posted on Feb 02, 2008
The symptoms you describe are typical of a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually located on the right hand side under the cabinet. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the right side of the wash tub opening. Make sure the lid strike is still on the lid and intact, first. Then, check the mounting screws that hold the lid switch in place (two screws along the tub rim on the right hand side). Often all that is required is to tighten up the mounting screws and this will realign the lid switch where it can be properly activated by the lid strike. If the lid switch is broken, you can find a replacement at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number and look under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. The lid switch is listed as item number 11 (part #3949247) and the lid strike will be listed as item number 20 (part #358684). If you do not wish to order online, take the part numbers provided by Sears and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These are common parts that most will carry in their store inventory. The following link explains how to replace the switch:
This is a very inexpensive repair that you can easily accomplish on your own. I hope you find this information helpful. If you require additional assistance, please let me know.
PS This is a common problem experienced by this line of washing machines. To prevent future failures, do not slam the washer lid or place anything heavy on the lid. Repeatedly slamming the lid to get it to work, or manipulating the timer can can more potential problems.
Posted on Oct 04, 2008
i also had the same problem, and it ended up being the coupler. It was not hard to replace, it cost me about 19.00. I didn't follow full recomende instructions. I tipped the washer backwards. Removed the drain pump and the motor itself. Then I removed the old coupling and placed the new one. The washer is working like new...
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
How old is your machine? Mine was doing the same thing. After doing some research online (and a visit from a Sears technician), I found out that the bearings died on on the drum. The Sears technician told us it was a combination of the type of soap being used (non HE), and the amount of soap being used per load that contributed to the unit's failure. I wish someone had explained that to us 7 years ago when we bought the machine. Appearently there are enzymes in the soap that will eat away at the rubber washer that protects the bearings. There are less of these enzymes in HE laundry soap, thats why it's recomended for front loading machines.I think the HE soap will still eventually cause this machine to fail, but it would take a little longer than 7 years (maybe 10 or 12). By then it's probably time to by a new machine anyways. We bought a new machine because it would cost over $500 CND to get the old one fixed. We ended up with a Frigidaire Affinity (FAFW3577KN).
Posted on Jan 09, 2010
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