Question about Refrigerators

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I have a GE Refrigerator TFX26KPDAAA and the refrigerator part will not stay cold

Refrigerator will not get cold enough. Freezer is too cold and has frost all over the outside of the ice maker

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 9,472 Answers

Do you see any ice buildup on the back wall of the freezer or behind it?

Posted on Nov 27, 2012

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator Not Making Ice, Frost in Freezer and Refrigerator Not Cold

It has a defrost problem.  Most likely cause would be the defrost thermostat which clips onto the evaporator behind the back panel in the freezer.  Next most common would be the defrost timer.  Third would be the defrost heater.  Let me know if you want to try to test these parts.  If so I will need the entire model # from the sticker in the fridge or on older models on a plate at the bottom front below the door.

Posted on Oct 10, 2007

eagle338
  • 4889 Answers

SOURCE: freezer no frost

This is probably due to the failure of defrost timer or the heating coil..Try this
1)The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.

The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.

Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.
2)If this doesnt work then Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.

Posted on Oct 15, 2007

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: the refrigerator section is not cold

Replace the freezer fan motor.

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

  • 291 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag freezer & refrigerator not coold enough

It's not cool If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”


  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. I feel heat/warmth on the front edge of my refrigerator....why?
 
Older refrigerators had electric heaters on the edges of the refrigerator cabinet to help prevent moisture from building up, especially in the hot/hazy weather in the summer time. These electric heaters usually had a switch where you could turn them on or off...had words like..."switch here to prevent moisture"...switch here in damp weather".... in the picture it is in the top left of the control assembly.
Then along came the energy crunch. The manufactures stopped using the electric heaters and started running a pass of the hot condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the electric heaters use to be. This is often called ayoder loop tube SxS version and the yoder loop tube Top freezer version. This has now replaced the electric heaters. If you feel heat/hot around the door opening of your refrigerator you should....
clean the condenser coils as a dirty condenser can make the tubing hotter than normal
- check/clean & replace if necessary the condenser cooling fan   ( # F ) motor, if the condenser fan motor is slow or has quit the yoder loop pass will get very warm/hot to the touch
- If the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running ok, check the fresh food and freezer section temperatures...if the refrigerator is not operating well and the temps inside are warming up, you could feel more heat/warmth than normal

Posted on Apr 03, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE Monogram refrigerator/freezer problem/ice dam in ice maker

I have had the same problem with ice forming. I found the problem is from the ice maker. The water fill tube delivers water to a plastic piece that acts like a funnel. The water goes through this plastic piece into the ice maker. Ice forms in the plastic funnel piece causing the water to overflow into the ice bin and freezer.

Posted on Oct 22, 2009

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Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

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Hi my GE side by side fridge is not getting cold enough


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-My refrigerator is not cold enough, Freezer stays cold.


Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

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http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

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http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer


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Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.

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Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

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Freezer is cold emnough, it's the refrigerator


Hi..

If your refrigerator is not cold enough you need to check this

  • Check the temperature setting
  • Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the refrigerator or freezer
  • Check for air flow restrictions in vents
  • Test the temperature control
  • Clean the condensor coils
  • Check the door seals
  • Test the door switch
  • Test defrost heater
  • Test defrost timer
  • Test evaporator fan
  • Check for a clogged drain tube
  • Check for refrigerant leak

Hope it may helpful for you!!!

Regards
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