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The psu is not even turning on -Jeffers help

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A) You weren't FOLLOWING Anti-Static Precautions, and Static shocked your hardware components inside.

(See the little Processor ghost?

Get's pretty lonely here in the FixYa halls. Did see an Armadillo going down the hall, though. NO! For real!...........crickets chirping)

B) You don't have the main Front Panel wires, connected correctly to the pins of the Front Panel header, on the motherboard.
We'll go through them together.

C) The Power On switch is cr@P. (Did I say that out loud?)
Test it.

D) The Power Supply is bad. Weak voltage power rail.

(Got a multimeter? I'll guide you in using it.
About $5 to $12, and located everywhere. Just a cheapee Analog multimeter will do)

E) The motherboard is mounted to a Support Plate. The Support Plate can be a separate metal plate; or is part of the computer case.

Mounting of the motherboard to Support Plate, is done with plastic Spacers; or metal Standoff's.

Metal Standoff = Brass hex shaped, and with a threaded end on one side, and a threaded hole on the other.

IF, a metal Standoff is NOT matched up to a motherboard mounting hole, it can touch the exposed solder joints on the bottom of the motherboard; and short the motherboard out.

USUALLY, if the 'offending' Standoff is removed, the motherboard will work OK.

General rule of thumb is;
Motherboard mounting hole has metal ring - NO fiber washers. That's how the motherboard get's it's Ground.

Motherboard mounting hole has no metal ring? Use fiber washers.

At any rate, what is the motherboard manufacturer name, and model number;
what is the computer manufacturer, and model number.

Model number is on the back of the computer next to the Windows product key; or up on the side of the computer tower.
Post back in a Comment.

(Hurry, or I might go out with sum girlz)

[ Need to test the three main voltages coming out of the Power Supply.
3.3 Volts, (Orange wires), 5 Volts, (Red wires), and 12 Volts, (Yellow wires) All are DC Voltage.
ALL -> Black wires are Ground wires.

In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.

Ol' whats-his-face

(I mean joecoolvette)

Posted on Nov 26, 2012

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Nov 27, 2012

    Thank you for the rating! (And now over to you Bob.............................)



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There is a 6 Amp 125 VAC fuse in the AC section of the PSU, that is the first part to check.After that test the PSU. Sometimes it is even possible to spot a blown capacitor in the PSU board. They look bulged, sometimes burnt and in some case you can even see a leak. Sometimes is instead possible to see a burnt area that is revealing a short, often in the AC section of the PSU. The PSU is located at the back of the TV. Power must be disconnected before removing back panel. Do not touch PSU. Capacitors can store and release heavy discharge even with power cord not connected. There are also 3 small brown fuses located next to the flyback. Those can be tested using a multimeter. Testing must be done by a trained person.

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I'm just going to post some stuff, and you see what you may think may help.

1.I hope you observed the anti-static guidelines, or you have silently toasted your delicate computer components. Static will silently fry them out. You won't see it or feel it.

(Reseated CPU? Static will fry that thing out F-A-S-T! Didn't clean the top of the CPU, and the bottom of the heatsink, and apply new thermal paste? CPU is fried. Takes about 10 minutes or so for an Intel. Takes about 20 to 30 seconds for an AMD!)
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