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Rear triangle removal - Yeti 575

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How to remove the golden triangle next to a url address ?


You can't. Info here: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/advice/10420279/What-is-the-golden-triangle-on-my-Chrome-browser.html

May 10, 2015 | Google Chrome

2 Answers

Where do i place the jack to change a rear tire


Hello, When you look at the panel under the Rear and Front Doors you will see a Triangle mark under each door. The rear triangle is under the rear door and the front triangle is under the front door.

There is a body seam about 4 inches inward from the triangle mark and there is a notch in the body seam for the jack. You place the jack under the body seam where the notch is and catch the seam with the groove in the jack seat. Then it is in proper position to jack up your car.

Remember to break the tension off of the lugnuts before you lift the car. Lift the car and proceed to undo the lugnuts with a minimum of shaking on your car. With a flat, jack the car higher than the rim on the ground so the inflated tire will fit back on the vehicle.

Mar 06, 2011 | 1998 Ford Crown Victoria

2 Answers

Hi guys, just bought a Werx VL 120 frame and the rear spacing is 145mm instead of the usual 135mm. The frame came from ebay and may have been sitting around for a few years. Do you think i could narrow...


Unfortunately there is no way to narrow the rear spacing on that particular bicycle. 145mm was the intended spacing to use a beefier wheel. If you try to bend the rear triangle yourself you risk several problems:
  • not bending either side the same amount leading to a wheel that is not straight inline with the rest of the bicycle
  • binding the suspension pivots
  • introducing fractures in the rear triangle welds (aluminum is not meant to be bent too much)
  • breaking the rear triangle
Your best bet is to find a wheel that fits. Many tandems use 145mm spacing for the rear wheel, or you could find downhill-specific wheels and/or hubs to build up or use.

Feb 25, 2011 | Haro Sonix Comp

1 Answer

2000 VN800 seems to be running a little rich and backfiring. Want to check plugs but not sure what all to take loose to get the gas tank off.


Remove the seat single bolt at the rear pull the seat back and off then you will see the rear tank bolts remove them.
next
To remove the tank there are 3 bolts on the triangle cover on the top remove them that cover will come off
slide that panel forward and up be careful not to scratch you tank reach under and unscrew the speedometer cable lift is so you can unplug the wiring connectors set it aside look forward center there is the front single bolt to remove. remove the fuel lines from the petcock lift the tank off

May 10, 2010 | 1998 kawasaki VN 800 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

Door boot seal on a front load washer how to change


front gasket/door boot.... replacement isn't easy but do-able. first remove three screws that hold front lower panel on and remove panel (where lint filter is). then remove 3 screws that hold on top panel (screws located at rear of top of washer), next remove 3 screws on top front of washer, then remove 4 screws that secure the contol panel. you must remove the washer door at this point, just a few screws and pin hold the door on. now, remove control panel by gently pulling the top away from the washer, it's held by a few plastic snaps. then, remove three screws that secure front panel of washer. now you're ready to remove the old boot/gasket. first look toward lower right side of gasket and pull the spring and remove wire that secures front of gasket. next... at about 3 o'clock on the gasket you'll find a longer screw (about 3 inches) that secures the rear of the gasket. loosen this screw until you can remove the gasket. remove the water inlet and hose from the boot/gasket.... now remove gasket from washer. you're ready to install new boot/gasket. find the small triangle on the new gasket and line this up w/the triangel at the top of wash tub. begin working the gasket onto the lip of tub, make sure to align the triangle and water outlets of the gasket w/the triangle and outlets of the washer tub. once back of gasket is on install the rear wire holder and tighten screw to former tightness. now work front of gasket onto the lip of washer, install spring wire to secure the front. place water inlet and hose into respective holes on the gasket. put front panel back on, put door on, put control panel on, put top on... and wash. like i said, not easy but do-able... i completed it in 1.5 hrs w/no instruction.

Nov 11, 2009 | GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Where on line do i find how to get the door panel off to repair the window regular


If this is a front door.. There is one screw in the top in the triangle covered by a plastic circular cover. The rest of the door is held on by plastic push clips. Use a trim panel pry bar to remove the panel. Stick the pry bar between the door and the trim panel around the clip when prying. The clips break easily so use caution. They are a dealer only item and cost about $2 each. Be careful when removing the panel, I'm fairly certain there aren't any other screws but it's been a while since removing one on a Grand Cherokee so don't go yanking anything too hard. Once the panel is hanging there just unclip the door handle and lock rods and any electrical connections.
If this is a rear door it should be very similar except for the screw in the triangle.

Oct 25, 2009 | 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

REMOVE THE DRIVER SEAT ON MY 2008 CBR 1000


Remove the small triangle shaped black plastic pieces below the seat by pulling on the tip closest to the rear of the bike. Once these are removed there is phillips head screws on each side.

Oct 03, 2009 | 2008 Honda CBR 600 RR

1 Answer

Yellow flashing triangle


The yellow flash triangle comes up when the car attemps to skid. it simply prevents the car from skiding off the road.

Nov 15, 2008 | 1994 BMW 3 Series

1 Answer

Error message on canon i900D


1. Underneath the printer, look for the triangular arrow on the AC Adapter, which points to a detent. Fully depress the detent, remove the AC Adapter and unplug it. Align the cable so that it will pass through the hole in the case when you remove the printer assembly.
2. Open the front cover to the vertical position and tug it at the hinge points to remove it.
3. The black, card-slot cover has two holes marked by triangles. Remove the two Phillips head screws, being careful not to lose them in the printer mechanism. Coax up card slot cover with a dull knife or similar tool and remove it.
4. On the top left of the printer, notice the triangle point at a slot. Insert a screwdriver or similar tool into the slot and depress the detent. Ease the little cover over the USB cable connector towards the rear of the printer and remove it.
5. Remove the “Operation Panel and Window Display” (OPWD). Lift the window display to the horizontal position and remove the two Phillips head screws. Rotate the OPWD forward and out the two hinges at the bottom. Lower the tiny snap that holds the OPWD strap cable and remove the OPWD.
6. Note the slot marked with a triangle between the two OPWD hinge slots. This is one of the six slots, all marked with a triangle, which access the detents that hold the upper casing. Locate the other five. One is on the left-side front of the printer in the same relative position as the one hidden under the OPWD. The other four are in the rear of the printer. Depress these detents in turn, working around the printer, and coax up the upper casing. This requires fortitude, patience and one or more dull, thin instruments.
7. On the right side of the printer, remove the Phillips head screw that fastens the yellow wire to the chassis of the printer.
8. Disconnect the connector on the Digital Camera Connector (DCC) circuit board and ease the cable out of the printer casing as far as you can. (I feared damaging the connector and removed the circuit board and DCC cover instead.) This cable is hooked at the right hand rear corner of the printer casing.
9. Looking down on the printer mechanism, locate the two Philips head screws near the rear. These fasten the printer to the base. Remove them carefully.
10. Placing a hand under the paper feed barrel, lift the printer assembly up and rest it on the case while you fight the DCC cable off the hook at the right rear corner. Once you free it, remove the printer assembly and congratulate yourself.
11. Wearing disposable gloves, remove the five ink absorbent pads and rinse them under the facet in the laundry sink. Cold water is fine. Press the pads with your fingers until the water runs clear. Do not wring or otherwise torment the pads, as you want them to retain their shape. Press the pads between old newspapers to squeeze out most of the moisture. Expect to be surprised at the amount of liquid these felt pads can hold. I dried mine in the sun. Use a hair dryer, clothes dryer, microwave or oven at your own risk.
12. Reassemble the printer in the reverse order of disassembly.
12.1. Insert the small absorbent pads first. The right side pad with the green facing goes on top. (I think.)
12.2. Caution: Before replacing the upper casing, note the small electrical gismo on the left side of the printer assembly. It has a slot that fits into the plastic wheel. When properly positioned, the gismo snaps into place. Make sure the gismo is correctly seated before replacing the upper casing.

Dec 29, 2007 | Canon I900D InkJet Photo Printer

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