Question about Refrigerators
Is there a transfer fan
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the problem is most likely a thermal fuse, located in the freezer on the evaporator, has blown. The lights on are indicating an error code. If you unplug the unit and then replug it, it will run until it hits the defrost cycle. This will at least keep your food cold until you can get service.
Posted on Jun 01, 2008
Welcome to fixya richarddl53,
You said, you have a side by side about fifteen years old need to know what type freon to charge it with.
The freon that's used in the old refrigerators is not legal now!
They started using a newer kind of freon years ago that does not deplete the ozone layer.
Yes you are low on freon, but that's because you have a leak somewhere.
And if by chance you could acquire the freon that you need to add into the older model fridge, it will just leak out again shortly!
My opinion is that you should not put good money into bad!
A new refrigerator uses less electricity than a fridge that is ten years old.
And yours uses 10% more than that!
you will see the differents in you utility bill as it will pay for it self in a few years!
I just read this report you may find interesting.
Repair or replace?
When to pull the plug on your old refrigerator
It nearly always makes sense to undertake simple do-it-yourself repairs,
such as replacing a gasket on a refrigerator or a freezer.
Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems
in the owner's manual.
Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model?
The answer depends mostly on the age of your refrigerator,
how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.
Follow these guidelines:
When a repair makes sense.
If your refrigerator is under warranty or less than four years old (three years for top-freezers),
paying for a repair makes sense.
Note that refrigerators under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician;
readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.
When a repair might be a wise choice.
If your refrigerator is out of warranty and is four to seven years old,
it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair.
But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage,
given that today's models are quieter and have added features.
Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008,
are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent
more efficient than those built before 1993.
When it pays to replace.
The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new refrigerator.
Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive top-freezer refrigerator
six or more years old or a bottom-freezer or side-by-side eight or more years old.
Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent
of a refrigerator you replace is likely to end up in a landfill.
Thanks for giving me the opportunity to help!
Please do not for get to give a rating before you sign off!
Thank You, HUUUM
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
Hello there. Let me see if I can assist you.
A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on May 27, 2009
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