Question about Kenmore Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you have probably lost one leg of your power supply feed 120volts+120volts=240volts,your motor will operate on 120volts, but the element won't,also if you have 240volts the neutral wire to the element can burn off w/heat and age
Posted on Aug 22, 2009
when you try to start it again do you hear a humming comeing from the motor? can you jump start it by turning the drum while holding the start button? If you say yes to these questions you have a bad motor.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
Hi, If the dryer heats but will not advance in either time or auto cycles, you need to change the timer.
You can test to see if the timer is getting voltage. Remove the top rear panel and locate the two wires going to the timer motor. There should be 120V when the dryer is running in time dry.
Please let me know if this helps or if I can assist you further.
Posted on May 27, 2009
Here's a few things to check that most people can do on their own. Keep in mind, that if you start taking the unit apart, you need to unplug the unit first. We don't want anyone getting zapped!
1) Obvious things first. If you have a propane gas dryer, make sure you are not out of gas! Go to the tank, lift the lid, look at the % gauge. If it's pointing at 5% or less, you may be empty or about to run out of gas. Order a gas delivery.
2) Another obvious tip. Check your lint filter. It may be so clogged that your dryer can't breathe. Clean it. Using a flashlight, look down into with the filter opening and see if there is a lot of lint still inside. If so, try using a small vacuum attachment and clean out lint. This applies to both gas and electric dryers.
3) Most gas dryers have either a small access panel in the front or at the very least, a peep hole. Open the panel or pop out the plastic peep hole cover so you can view the igniter. Turn on the dryer and watch for orange glow at the burner. If it does not glow, it will not light the gas burner. You may have a broken igniter and will need to replace it or have a new one installed. If you do it yourself, be sure to unplug the dryer and do not touch the very fragile ceramic piece of the igniter. You can confirm it is broken by locating the broken piece below where it is attached or noting it is missing a piece of ceramic on the igniter.
4) This tip applies to both gas and electric models. Another thing you can do is check for blockage in your vent. Unplug the dryer, and pull the unit out as far as you can to get access to the back of the unit. Be careful not to step on or kink the gasline. Pull the venting off the back of the dryer. There is usually a squeeze clamp holding it on. Clean out lint in dryer and from within the vent tube. Some cheap venting are made of expandable plastic or aluminum and can get squished to the point they restrict air flow. Make sure your vent is not collapsed and doesn't get squished when you push the unit back. Once you have cleaned and reassembled it, plug it in turn on the dryer and watch for ignition. If it lights, go outside to the vent cap and check for lint there and make sure your vent flap opens with the hot air flowing out. Clean and adjust as necessary. If you have a long vent tube like I have on mine, then you should clean it out annually. I use a wind-up toilet snake and crank it around knocking lint loose from the walls of the vent. I can always tell when it needs to be cleaned again, when clothes no longer get dried in the first cycle. If you are unsure of, or unable to perform this task, then you'll need to hire a repairman.
Anyway, these are just the easy, quick fixes that most homeowners can perform on their own. If none of these solve the problem, you will need to troubleshoot further or hire a repairman. Hope this helps. Douglas
Posted on Jun 04, 2010
SOURCE: My dryer shuts off mid-cycle.
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
There are only 2 causes for this....
restricted Air flow or
broken / damaged blower fan wheel
- Start by pulling the lint filter and washing it with vinegar and water then soap and water to remove any dryer sheet particulate that blocks what appears to be clean filters.
- Next clean out every dryer passage you can access.... use a vacuum with crevice tool and a "U" bent wire coat hanger to get all of the lint out of the lint filter area DEEP down inside....
- Then pull off the dryer duct from the rear of the dryer and clean the internal ducting of the dryer.
- After you think you are done cleaning... reverse the vacuum airflow to pressure... if you see lint floating in the air your not done cleaning. Start over...
- Next follow the duct work all the way through to the outside wall and OUTSIDE. Clean the dryer vent on BOTH sides of the vent flapper outside the home.
- Before hooking up / re-connecting the dryer ducting again to the back of the dryer... turn on the dryer. Use the back of your relaxed hand over the duct / vent outlet of the dryer... the air flow must be strong enough to push a relaxed hand / wrist gently away from the hole.. IF you do not have this kind of air flow after your cleaning session... the most probable failure is the hub of the blower wheel / fan is cracked allowing the blower to spin on the motor shaft.
I think once you get things cleaned up... your dryer will return to normal again. My last comment.... and I am being honest. I have made a lot of money... cleaning out dryer duct work after the customer said they had cleaned it very well. I finished the job they started.... and got paid for doing so. I am passing on 40 + years experience here for free because I believe in helping people help themselves..
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Posted on Apr 17, 2011
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